Yucky lube problem

[CANNONMAN]

I just got a Lyman 4500. Set it for .45's. By the time I get it set for a good ring of lube I get a bit of a mess on the base. When I back off they come out clean but no full ring. Too hot? Not hot enough. Should'a bought something else? Love to hear anyone who has one of these. Thanks!

 

[rooster59]

If you are using a heater try lowering the temp

 

[moonman16]

Dump the messy lubes, start using COATED BULLETS.

 

[41 Mag]

What lube are you using, and as asked are you using a heater?

I normally use White Label Carnuba Red for 95% of what gets lubed, and tumble the rest in 45/45/10.

I find that simply using a clamp on light with a 100 watt bulb in it, will warm it up enough to flow just fine. I also have a heater mounted under it, and it works well if combined with my PID and a small threaded thermocouple I installed into one of the unused threaded holes in the aluminum base. Using it I run the setting at about 85* and it flows just fine. I only use the heater when it is down in the mid 50's or so, the light works well above that.

 

[C.F. Plinker]

Sounds like you are almost there. What lube are you using? Most of the harder lubes do need some heat to help them flow. Do your bullets have a bevel base or a square base? The bevel bases do give the lube a place to go other than where you want it. Some make a gasket out of Styrofoam (cup, butcher shop tray, etc.) to go between the bullet and the die plug to minimize the amount that tries to get under the base. Another thing that helps is to keep downward pressure on the operating handle as you operate the ratchet to apply the lube. This keeps the bullet from rising and making space under the bullet. Try adjusting the sizer so the bullet base is located between the holes in the die at the bottom of the operating handle stroke. This minimizes the amount of lube that can get under the bullet.

 

[CANNONMAN]

Yep. This model has the heat probe in the back. Instructions state to turn it off after a "while". The lube is from lyman. Not in front of it now. I'll take a few pics. I used to only tumble. I was always jealous of the castings with the nice clean look and completed lube ring. Eh... Yes, they are beveled. I want to break in my new Blue 650 with these. I just think I'm going to make a mess this way. It's all my Wife's fault for buying me this gorgeous Kimber! Darn my luck! I built an 8 rack of falling silhouettes and had no idea how much fun this was going to be. Then, OMG! Not boxes of ammo, more like case lots. I gotta get this right.

 

[243winxb]

Bullet Lube Melting Points

The bevel will get lubed. http://www.midwayusa.com/general.mvc/index/AppCharts~bullet-lube-melting-points White label has a temp chart also. http://www.lsstuff.com/frequently-asked-questions

 

[Elkins45]

Which Lyman lube? The Super Moly shouldn't need the heater at all. I've never used Orange Magic but I understand it needs a bit of heat to flow.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Dump the messy lubes, start using COATED BULLETS.

x2

I cast up a little over 3000 and love the coating. No smoke or lead and the coating stays on. I crank them up to FMJ FPS with no problems.

 

[Twiki357]

I’ve been using the Lyman Orange Magic for quite a few years and yes, in cold weather it does need some heat. I use a hair dryer to heat the sizer up to 75/80 degrees.

 

[41 Mag]

Some make a gasket out of Styrofoam (cup, butcher shop tray, etc.) to go between the bullet and the die plug to minimize the amount that tries to get under the base. Another thing that helps is to keep downward pressure on the operating handle as you operate the ratchet to apply the lube. This keeps the bullet from rising and making space under the bullet. Try adjusting the sizer so the bullet base is located between the holes in the die at the bottom of the operating handle stroke. This minimizes the amount of lube that can get under the bullet.

The above about covers anything I cold add, except for the heat.

Try just using a hair drier or small desk lamp or similar with a light bulb focused on the bottom and side of the lube cylinder. Turn it on and come back in about 15-20 minutes with no pressure on it, and go for it. You really don't meed much heat to get things flowing good with most lubes, especially those used for handguns.