Beginner question re economics of reloading

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I have actually reloaded a bit ... about forty years ago ... so please assume I know very little about anything. I principally shoot handguns, and have been trying to kind of standardize on 9mm since the more exotic calibers (to me) are much spendier. I occasionally shoot .45 ACP, .380, 10mm, and .44 Special. The last two I can rarely find for less than .60 a round and sometimes more like a dollar.

I've read a bunch--well, a few--pages that claim you can load 9mm for around $7/100 in consumables. I assume that's not counting brass, but when I look, it looks like 2¢ for a primer, around 3-5¢ for powder, and I don't see any bullets for less than 12¢. I can't make that come out to much less than $20/100 and I can buy range ammo for as low as $28/100. Also, I haven't been saving 9mm brass, though I can start.

Near as I can see, it's about the same cost for .44 Special (and I have brass--yeah) so I'd be getting a little savings on 9mm and more than $.40 per round on the less usual stuff. Is my addition just wrong? Maybe the $7/100 figure is ten years out of date, or maybe those guys are digging bullets out of their backstop? If it'll take me years to break even, I may need to come up with a different plan...

I read a bunch of posts on the group and they're fascinating, but didn't seem to address such simple questions. If there's some old posts I should read, please just direct me there.
 
RMR fmj-$75-1k
s&b primers-$19 on sale
brass-free
powder-$20-does about 2k rds.

I figure I'm about $7.75-$8 per 100 seeing how I can use the same powder for 2 different calibers. sure beats the $11-12 per 50rds.
 
To get down to about $7/100 you need to cast your own bullets.

If you don't want to do that RMR has bullets in the 7 to 8 cent range when you buy in bulk and use the THR discount. Based on the last time I checked.

Lower your powder cost by buying in 8lbs and you can get down to 10 to 13 cent per round.
The only way to get decent savings is by buying in bulk.

There's a lot of debate if the time spent is worth the savings. I think being able to make my own rounds and use the bullets and powders I want and how much is worth it.

A few months ago I posted on how to build a low budget reloading setup for about $125. If you search my posts you should be able to find it if you don't have any gear. So with a .20 per round savings you'd break even at 625 rounds.

In my own case, I didn't save anything when I started. First because I was buying my components locally as I was learning.
Once I started buying in bulk my costs really dropped. But I now shoot more and I keep adding tools, or items to make reloading more enjoyable. So technically I don't save anything. So I look at it as a relaxing hobby, and part of learning a skill that is handing for WHEN the next ammo shortage happens.

The trick is to not go insane buying things you don't need, do some planning and research and you can make good ammo, save per round and have fun.
 
I don't count my time as I would just be on here or watching tv. when I get bored and nothing to do ill go load up 100rds and stash them and eventually ive got a nice stash for range day. I mainly started reloading because I couldn't find anything but expensive varmint ammo to shoot well in my 2 bolt action rifles so I began loading on a single stage for cheaper and more accurate ammo. 44mag came next cause I'm not paying $48 for 50rds and then came pistol rounds. my stuffs more accurate and yes its cheaper.
 
To get down to about $7/100 you need to cast your own bullets.

Yep! The most expensive component in reloading is the bullet. When you can drive that cost WAY down by casting your own, that's where the savings are. It ain't that hard, and I always wonder why more guys don't do it.

Don
 
Compared to what I buy:
  • Your primer cost of $.02 is a little low. My primers are about $32/1K - so $.03 each. (These are CCI. If you bought S&B it would be less.)
  • Your powder cost of $.03-$.05 is high. A pound of HP-38 costs me about $24 (locally) - which turns out to be about $.01/round.
  • Your bullet cost of $.12 is high. I get 124gr FMJs (Zero Bullets) at an LGS for about $104/1K - so $.10-$.11/round.
So I'm loading for about $14/100. As others have shown if you go with different bullets, or look at more bulk purchasing you can likely reduce the above amounts. I'm not claiming my way is the cheapest. I'm just saying that my method, which is inherently not very "aggressive" in terms of really searching and rooting out the absolute lowest prices, is resulting in costs that are reasonably well below off-the-shelf ammo.

I'm figuring brass is free. Maybe that's not the case in other areas. I'm lucky in that I have a couple of friends who shoot what I reload - and they have no interest whatsoever in reloading. So they just hand me their brass.
 
Yep! The most expensive component in reloading is the bullet. When you can drive that cost WAY down by casting your own, that's where the savings are. It ain't that hard, and I always wonder why more guys don't do it.

Don

I don't do it because I'm still learning so many other things.
I've read about fouling and seen videos on powder coating cast bullets.

That said, it's on my list of skills to learn, just not yet
 
you need to watch the sales on components and buy in bulk at least 1k pcs at a time, like said above RMR 1k 9mm $75 free shipping , find powder and primers locally when on sale to avoid shipping and hazmat , you didn't mention if you already have the reloading equipment if you do you will defiantly save on loading 9mm and save even more on the 45acp 380 10mm and 44spl , or at least you will shoot more for less $$
 
There are many variables in what you can actually load for yourself. From wild to mild and any bullet that you want. That alone is worth the trouble IMHO. Also IF (when, actually) things go sour again, while store bought ammo will be scarce or non existent if you have put back some supplies for a rainy day you can shoot anything you can reload with some time invested. I was shooting 38 SPL SWC ammo for less per round that I could buy .22 LR ammo at the height of the last ammo drought and I did not need to buy anything for three years. I prefer to have a stockpile of components at the ready to reload as the guns I shoot can change and I can choose what to reload as I need it rather than pull things apart to get say primers, to reload for a different caliber. There are places to buy lead bullets for handguns (Missouri Bullet for example) that keep me from casting as much as I could because the premade bullet cost is so close to what the materials cost presently. I do however have molds and some lead to do it if I need to though.
 
Don't reload to save money because right now you won't. By the time you gear up it'll take quite a while to amortize the costs. Reload because you want to make better ammo than you can buy and have a ready supply that won't be dependent on market conditions and the political climate. Ammo costs right now are as low as I remember ever seeing them but as we start to get closer to another election cycle that'll change.
 
If you are mostly shooting 9MM, reloading is probably a waste of time if you only do it to save money. You can try hard and buy in bulk, but if you value your time spent at all it is a loss. Less common calibers (44 special) do offer some savings, as do the bigger calibers. Order some lead or coated lead bullets, keep your once fired brass, and you can save a good chunk pretty quickly. I am working on a midrange jacketed load for my 44 mag rifle that I figure runs me $17/100 rounds and assuming I get there on accuracy it will be a significant savings over factory. My first bottle neck reloading project will be 35 Rem simply because it looks to me like a dying cartridge and from time to time ammo becomes rare and expensive.

There are other reasons to reload, of course. It is a fun hobby, you can make specialty loads that you either cannot buy or will cost a lot, you can help insulate yourself from the next panic/shortage, etc. One of the things I will be doing is making a gallery/small game load for 35 Rem with a lead 38 special bullet simply because it is cheap to do and I can.
 
Yes, you can save money reloading your own ammo. 9mm and 223 can be purchased for very little over reloaded costs if you shop around and buy in bulk, but, you can shop around and buy components even cheaper too. 9mm is one thing, but say 44 magnum is a good caliber to save on. Any odd or obsolete cartridges you can really save a gang on if you shoot them much. The bottom line is, you can make better ammo at your house than you can buy anywhere. You can load it to the velocity that you want, the accuracy level you want or the power level that you want. Better
 
Thunderchicken wrote:
I've read a bunch--well, a few--pages that claim you can load 9mm for around $7/100 in consumables.

It can be done, but that's usually a figure reached by people who are getting free range pickup brass, casting their own bullets, can find primers locally for $20 per 1000 and can buy powder for $25 a pound. You may not be able to realize such prices where you live and in my experience $7/100 is a figure most people are going to realize.

If you have to pay sales tax on components that adds to the cost. If you have to mail-order bullets, shipping will increase your unit cost. If you have to mail order primers or powder and incur shipping and Haz-Mat fees those too add to the bottom line as will purchased brass if nobody is giving it to you.

In my case, the case runs 3 to 4 cents, the primer 3 to 4 cents, the powder ($32.50 per pound after adding in sales tax) comes in just under 2 cents a round and I buy jacketed bullets in bulk for less than 10 cents each, so my cost for 9mm comes in around $18/100. That doesn't include the $3+ for the plastic boxes I store the loaded rounds in, the cost of gasoline or wear and tear on my car driving around North Texas to pick up components, amortization of my reloading equipment or the value of my time.

When I started reloading in the 1970's, it was possible to save a considerable amount rolling-your-own, but as time marched on prices changed and my rationale for reloading shifted from economics to being able to control the process and create loads that were not commercially available, until it became a matter of pride that I only shot ammunition I had reloaded.
 
I'm getting primers for $30 and Powder for $21 - $23, Cast most calibers for plinking, factory reloads for anything serious, store bought ammo for Self Defense. I have a Spreadsheet I use that calculates costs for me, very handy. Been doing this since 1985 when a friend spent a lot of time teaching me a process, I have stuck with it and taught my boys the same process.

Very Therapeutic for me, enjoyable. Nothing like the feeling of the first sub MOA group from a new load...

Dan
 
Your components will cost less when buying in bulk.
Comparing your handloaded ammunition to cheap plinking fodder is a poor comparison. You will likely be able to find a favorite handload for your guns that shoots with superior accuracy, better felt recoil and costs less than the cheapest plinking fodder.Certainly there is value in that. You will also find greater monetary value reloading the larger calibers. If you must compare handloads to store-bought, compare it to more expensive quality ammo.
Want to "recover your costs" faster? Shoot more!
As for your time, it's like time spent fishing... can't be deducted etc.
 
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Re saving money and our time vs getting what we want.....

I've used a "Boxed Pancake Mix" vs "Making From Scratch" analogy.

Using a boxed mix is the easiest, most time-efficient way to get pancakes on the table. But the price you pay for that convenience is no control over what was put in the box at the factory. For the right personality and right circumstances boxed pancake mix is a perfectly fine way to get pancakes on the table. But, if you like to have the pancakes just the way you like them, and you don't mind taking the time...heck maybe you even ENJOY the process of taking the time to customize your pancakes....you can get EXACTLY what you want and use your second hobby (cooking....the other "hobby" being eating pancakes) as an added benefit way to get exactly what you want.
 
Wait...you guys reload to save money? What a concept. At an average savings of $4-$8 a box, I figure I'll break even around the year 2035. That's including interest on the saved dollars that I will save and not spend on more guns;) And I have all Lee dies and equipment.

Seriously, it's a hobby and I enjoy it as much or more then shooting the stuff. Saving money is only a myth I tell my spouse. :neener:
 
I don't save any money, I just shoot lots more.:)
It is also nice not having to worry about ammo being available on the shelf.
You can save a bit on 9mm and have better ammo than the cheap stuff, loaded to the power level you want.
More savings on .380 and .45 ACP and I would imagine more on 10mm and 44. (I don't load the last two)

To get a true cost you have to decide what your time is worth.
I enjoy reloading so I value my time reloading at $0. (which is only a little less than I get paid for working:D)
 
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My current 9mm load is using Berry's plated 115gr round nose bullets, Alliant BE-86 powder and CCI 500 primers. My cost is $14.75/100. All locally sourced components. Local prices on 9mm Blazer Brass ammo is currently $12.89/50 so the savings is just about half the price.
https://www.berrysmfg.com/item/bp-9mm-356-115gr-rn 1000/$93 shipped
Local price on Alliant BE-86 is $24
Local price on CCI primers $30-35
You will save even more on your other calibers as they are generally more expensive. Locally the 380 are $21/50.
As a friend of mine told me, "You don't save money reloading, you just get to shoot a lot more."

As others have said, it's a hobby and I also enjoy it immensely.
 
At current prices I load 9mm FMJ ammo for 12¢ a round, $6.21 a box of 50. I can load lead bullets for slightly less, @ $5.39/box. Both are 124gr bullets.

You will see much greater savings on older revolver cartridges like the 45 Colt and 44 Special, much more savings compared to Retail. 45 Colt ammo runs $40 to $50/box most places. I can load the same 250gr LRN bullet for $8.05/box. That is a huge savings.
 
For blasting ammo i cant come close with the common stuff like 9s, and .223
Powder for me is 35 bucks a pound
bullets 30/100 locally
Primers 5/100
Cases are pretty much free as I scrounge alot from the range, but well say 12/100
Box of cheap 9s are 11/50
.45s arnt alot more expensive.


like others have said, reloading starts making sense when you go for more expensive cartridges.
44s are 45-65/50 here,either specials or mags
If you use more expensive bullets, that actually makes your reloads compare better with similar factory rounds.
Hornady critical defense, and most hunting hand gun ammo using XTP bullets costs about 1-1.50 a round out here, loading it is about 50 cents. Barnes or other "specialty" ammo runs 40-60 bucks per 20.
 
Again, if your only reason to reload is to save money, DON'T bother. You have to have a bit more dedication than that when you and your gun's safety depends on you paying attention.

OK, in today's market, and not even last month's market, we want great rounds for National Bullseye competition and NO factory ammo will meet our needs.
So, we go to Powder Valley, as a convenient one-stop shop, rather than spending a lot of time hunting for deals.
(note: alot is NOT a word)
Cases: free (save all the factory cases you shoot, as long as they aren't crap aluminum or steel). Sort them for the longest ones after sizing. Head stamp is not a big deal, but length is.
Bullets: Zero 115gn JHP: $283.50/3000 or 9.45 cents/bullet (you could use Nosler, but they cost more and aren't any more accurate)
Powder: 5.0gn of Power Pistol at $69.50/4 lbs or $17.38/lb or $0.0025/gn times 5 grains is 1.24 cents/round
Primers: Rem 1 1/2 SPP at $29/1000 or 3 cents/round
Under 14 cents for top quality match ammo.

Oh, we just want to shoot, but accuracy is still important?
Well, then get the same things but use:
Bullet: Precision Bullets swaged and coated 115gn L-FP at $213/3500 or just under 6.1 cents per bullet.
Just over 10 cents/round.

No, no, I meant competitive action pistol shooting in minor:
Bullet: Precision Bullets swaged and coated 147gn L-FP at $215/3000 or just over 7 cents/bullet
Powder: 3.0gn of TiteGroups at $127.50/8lbs or $15.94/lb or $0.0023/gn times 3 gn is 0.7 cents/round
So, for Action Pistol competition, each round would run 10.7 cents. You could save maybe 0.5 cents/bullet with plain cast lead.

And, I would be surprised if any factory ammo close to those prices per round could match any of them in terms of accuracy.
 
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I've read a bunch--well, a few--pages that claim you can load 9mm for around $7/100 in consumables. I assume that's not counting brass, but when I look, it looks like 2¢ for a primer, around 3-5¢ for powder, and I don't see any bullets for less than 12¢. I can't make that come out to much less than $20/100 and I can buy range ammo for as low as $28/100. Also, I haven't been saving 9mm brass, though I can start.

Just use your numbers, $10 a box. If you wanted to reload 9mm it wouldn’t make financial sense. But I don’t think you are gonna find .380 or 38 spl for anywhere near $10 a box.
Bullets for your 44 and 45 are gonna be a few penny’s more. But what does a box of 44 spl cost? The cheapest on Midway per round is $0.63.
 
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It has been decades since I figured the cost of my hand loaded ammunition. I enjoy reloading so my time is irrelevant and components cost less than factory ammunition.

As already mentioned, there are lots of good reasons for reloading in addition to reduced cash flow and I reload for all of them. But if you get your shorts all bunched up in a wad over the time invested, reloading is not for you.
 
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