Questions from a Beginner

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ccw_steve

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Hey guys, I have just decided to make the leap and purchase some gear to start reloading my own ammo (specifically, 9mm Luger). After a few months of research, I have decided to get the Hornady Lock and Load Classic Kit. I think I'm going to purchase it from Natchez Shooting Sports because they have a great deal on the kit. I'm also going to purchase the 3 die 9mm set and a #8 shell holder from Cabelas online.

After reading the Stickies in this forum and other sources on the web, I still have a couple of questions I was hoping you experienced guys could answer:

1) Do I really need a brass trimmer? The ones I can find on NSS are very expensive...how often does brass really need to be trimmed?

2) Do I need a shell holder for each caliber I want to reload with the Hornady LNL Classic?

3) Is there anything other than a die set (and a shell holder) that I need to reload 9mm with the LNL Classic Kit? Is there anything else that you guys suggest that I should purchase (other than Brass, Primers, Bullets, and Powder)?

4) I own a Glock 19, and on recovering the spent brass I have noticed that each piece had a flat spot on the rim :scrutiny: I'm assuming that this is from the extractor; is this still reloadable brass?

5) Are there any tricks or tips you guys can give me specific to this reloading press?

Thanks for your guys input!
 
I have never trimmed a piece of handgun brass. I don't think the trimmer is necessary until you start loading for bottlenecked cases.

You will want a set of calipers for measuring cartridge length. Also, you should get at least 2 good manuals for cross referencing load data.
 
1) You never need to trim for pistol cases, especially 9mm. If they look bad, toss them. They are free all over the range.

2) Not sure about Hornady. I use Lee dies and each die set comes with its shell holder.

3) You will need a calipher, a beam scale, and a tumbler. A calipher is a must. The beam scale is good to have to double check your charges as electric scale can be inaccurate. A tumbler is not needed right away, but it is something you will want to have.

4) No problem. The sizing die will straight them out. Unless there's an apparent crack, they are good to go.

5) Not sure. I don't use that press. However, go slow and take your time. Measure and double check your load as many times as you feel comfortable with. No need to rush things with the first few batches.
 
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You can get the Lee trimmer on the cheap from midway they are quick and accurate. Your reloading manual should have the info of what shell holders you will need for the cartridges you will be reloading. I'm not sure if that kit comes with calipers but that is also something you should have to start.
 
OK, a caliper it is...I will be sure to pick one up.

Atakawow, what is the tumbler for? I think it has something to do with cleaning the brass, right?

Thanks for all the helpful info guys, this is exactly what I was looking for!
 
A tumbler is used to clean the brass prior to resizing. While your dies should be either titanium nitride or carbide (which means you don't have to lube the cases prior to resizing), you want clean dies so you don't create wear on the dies plus the dirt can scratch the cases.

Generally, a tumbler is a tumbler. I have the Hornady offering, works great. Others have various inexpensive tumblers. You put some cleaning media in them (like dried corncob you buy for that purpose), put in the brass, let it run for an hour or two, and they're clean.

I, personally, love electronic scales. They're far easier to use than beam scales, and generally very reliable assuming you buy a quality scale, not a $20 or $30 cheapo. If you anticipate that 9mm is just the start for you, it may be worth investing in such a scale. I have the Dillon DTerminator scale, and love it--but it's pricey.

Brian Enos is selling a cheaper electronic scale on his site, costs about $75. His rep is that he wouldn't be offering it if it didn't do what he says, so if I were looking for a replacement for mine, I'd try that one.

Finally, assuming you're getting the Hornady dies, there is a "Get Loaded" offer that allows you to get 100 free bullets for just the shipping. I am not a fan of Lee dies generally (except for the Factory Crimp Die), as they're short, and I have had trouble w/ maintaining overall length (OAL) using my Lee 9mm die. (And I presume you've already figured out you can get 500 free bullets with the Classic kit).

IMO, the Hornady dies are far superior, and when you factor in the free bullets, the price isn't that different.

Anyway, welcome to the wonderful world of reloading, and take your time. I think you've selected an excellent kit and you'll be happy with it.
 
A dial caliper is cheap and very handy. These go on sale for 15 bucks all the time and work great. A tumbler is nice and will make your brass shine, but just hand cleaning brass to get dirt off is enough for a while. You will never need to trim 9MM brass. You must have a good scale. The balance beams work great. Don't buy a cheap digital. If you go digital, pony up and buy quality. Some shell holders will do multiple calibers, while some only do one. Here is a chart.
 
Wow, thanks for all the input guys. I never expected to get it so quickly after posting :what:

Not to hijack my own post, but does anyone have experience with Bullseye powder for a 9mm charge? Has anyone used it for .45?

That is the powder that I have on order right now, I've heard good things from others.
 
Bullseye is a fast burning powder good for 9mm and 45ACP loads.

I am a fan of slower burning W231/HP38 powder, but I also use Bullseye for shorter barreled subcompacts. Faster powders tend to give more "snappy" recoil.
 
One advantage to using slower powders is they tend to fill the case more fully, which makes a double charge less likely. Harder to miss it when a double-charge spills out of the case. :)

I've had very good luck w/ both W231 and WST (yeah, WST) in both 9mm and .45. And a double-charge is very difficult to miss.
 
I use Bullseye for 9mm with Berry's 115 grain plated bullets. I'm currently testing loads of 4.2 and 4.4 grains. The testing would have been done earlier had I not shot my Chrony, but that's another story. LOL!
 
ccw_steve said:
Not to hijack my own post, but does anyone have experience with Bullseye powder for a 9mm charge? Has anyone used it for .45?
Click to expand...

Only the US Government, for several billion 45 ACP rounds. :)

Bullseye will work fine for both 9mm and 45 ACP.
 
One advantage to using slower powders is they tend to fill the case more fully, which makes a double charge less likely. Harder to miss it when a double-charge spills out of the case.
Click to expand...
Which is why I love Unique! Well, that and because I can use Unique in every pistol caliber I load for!!
 
To those who say you don't need to trim straight wall pistol brass, you might want to limit your comment to smaller calibers like 9mm or 40 S&W (neither of which I reload). However, I do load 357mag, 44mag and 460mag, all of which need to be trimmed to keep the COAL in check. Again, I can't speak to 9mm but you definitely will trim mags. Also, a hand trimmer isn't that expensive ($100?). I have all RCBS equipment and the trimmer does a fine job.
 
I trim all my revolver brass, although many don't. For a nice even roll crimp from case to case consistent case length is a must. I never trim 9MM, .40, .38, .45 ACP etc.
 
I shoot .40 (two sigs) but I don't reload because (a) collecting the brass off the ground from a semi is a pain in the rear; and (b) this ammo is cheap in bulk. Same goes for 223 from my AR-15. So, again, my comment is limited to revolver brass and bigger bore rifles.

I absolutely agree that proper trimming of pistol brass is critical to a good crimp. On that note, I've also switched to a LEE Factory Crimp Die to crimp all of the straight wall brass that I load with my RCBS (pistol or rifle). I find the FCD to create very consistent and tight crimps with much less risk of putting too much pressure on the cartridge. There was just too much guesswork with my RCBS roll crimp to know whether I was at max crimp and, if so, was I harming the brass with too much die pressure.
 
Here are some sample pics of various crimps.

The FCD for pistol must be adjusted just like any roll crimp die. It does have some flex in the o-ring which may help poor adjustment.

I have never found it difficult to adjust crimp dies, whether crimping and seating together or separately.
 
I use Bullseye in 38 specials, 40 cal and 45acp. Goes a long way! I like the Lyman Manual for a lot of info for the beginner. Read a lot and take your time. I don't load heavy or hot and I haven't had a need to trim pistol cases yet. 38, 357, 40, 45.
 
I agree that most of the time you will be ok with not trimming. The issue you will have is the crimp. If you trim, it will make it easy to crimp and your rounds will look uniform. You can pick up the Lee trimmer for around 10 bucks, although with the 9mm I have had to grind the case length gauge diameter a few thousanths for a few brands of brass, but now it works great. I use the Lee trimmer on 9mm, 38spc, .357, 45acp, 30-06, and 30-30. The only ones I had any trouble with were the 9mm, and 45acp, but after a few minutes with a wet stone grinding the case length gauge diameter they work fine.
 
I assume you are getting carbide dies. Something I find useful but not absolutely necessary is the Lee Factory Crimp Die. It is most useful for longer cases like .38/.357 but the thing I like best is that it post sizes the cases which insures any deformations that may have occured during the loading process are corrected. It is cheap and helps assure the rounds will chamber. Don't forget a good reloading manual and safety glasses. Unfortunately with any progressive press you will at some time need a bullet puller RCBS makes one for about $20 that will do. If the Kit does not have a powder scale you will need one. One last thing I would HIGHLY recomment is a chronograph!! Decent ones can be had for about $100 - if you are serious about producing quality ammo having access to one is the way to go.
 
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Brand of chronograph?

LubeckTech, would you or any others recommend a specific brand of chronograph? I have found many "one-off" websites selling ballistics chronographs but none that appeared particularly trustworthy.
 
The one I'm using at the moment is a Shooting Chrony model F1. It was about $86.00 last year at Midway USA and I believe it to be accurate based upon the fact that the data it provides tracks the predictions of the load data books. It also gives about the same results as the previous chronograph I had who panicked one day at the range and jumped in front of a bullet. There are some chronographs whose sensors are sererate from their display/electronics unit and I would recommend on of those if you can afford one as they are more expensive. I was not pleased with the Shooting Chrony at first but once I found the correct distance I had to be back from it (15-20feet) I have been very happy. It folds up into a small package for easy storage and has a built in tripod socket. My first chronograph (the one that died in the line of duty) was made by Competition Electronics and worked pretty well but I had to pass the bullets fairly close to the top of it to get ti to work which lead to it's untimley demise. I bought it used on ebay for about $50.00 ans used it for over 2 years.
 
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