Professional gunsmith here, ask me anything

Welcome to THR.

Gunman1981 said:

Please feel free to ask anything

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1. Any suggestions for smoothing out Glock factory trigger without parts replacement? (Specific to Gen3 G22/G23/G27)

2. How about smoothing out Ruger 10/22 factory trigger?

3. I am currently breaking in a new 10/22 Collector #3 leaving it factory stock while documenting every 10 shot group comparing different ammunition (20+). Currently I am at shimming below V block and electrical tape around back of receiver to free float the barrel and better secure the receiver to the stock. Would appreciate your comments (My goal is to benefit typical plinker who doesn't want to spend hundreds of dollars changing out the barrel, trigger and stock).

Shimming of V block post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...22-collector-3-break-in.859106/#post-11307816

Electrical tape to back of receiver post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lector-3-break-in.859106/page-2#post-11351163

Thank you in advance.

Have you ever seen a barrel this eccentric? And is it safe to shoot? Ive shot 10 rounds through it, but wouldnt mind a second opinion.

Gunman1981 said:

The factory Glock trigger bar is stamped, and has a few points of contact that causes grit, one being the rearmost section that contacts the striker. If you look closely, you’ll see imperfections that can be smoothed out with a hard Arkansas stone, as well as the ramped portion that depresses the striker safety. I typically modify the ramp to the striker safety by imparting a more radical angle, being sure not to change the height of the protrusion. That, along with clipping a coil or two from the striker safety along with polishing the outside of the trigger bar where it rides against the frame have proven to make the most improvement. I’d recommend a 4.5lb striker spring as well

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My current Glocks are well broken in and have 10K - 20K+ rounds shot through and average 4.5 lb to less than 5.0 lb trigger pull. I was asking for other THR members dealing with breaking in new Glock triggers. Thank you.

I was trained to reload and shoot matches by a seasoned bullseye match shooter who did all his gunsmith work. He helped me build my Norinco 1911 into USPSA match pistol with Wilson Combat parts including a 2.5 lb trigger job and hand fitting WC beaver tail that took like 4 hours with a set of diamond files (It was work but I learned to appreciate handy work - You have my adoration for being a gunsmith). I also have done this trigger job on my M&P 40/45 to achieve around 4.5 - 5.0 lb trigger pull with much improved accuracy - http://www.burwellguns.com/M&Ptriggerjob1.htm

Gunman1981 said:

As far as the 10/22, I would advise against shimming the receiver with anything soft. Are you opposed to modifying the inside of your stock? Does your rifle utilize a barrel band, or is it one of the higher-end 10/22s with a walnut stock?

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It is Collector #3 - https://ruger.com/products/1022Carbine/specSheets/31115.html



I thought about using aluminum bar stock but decided to use hard plastic so as to not damage the underside of the V block. I will try harder piece of plastic shim.

I am not opposed to modifying the stock but doing the "real world" thread for typical THR members who may not want to do much work. I am trying to keep things low cost and simple and plastic shim and electrical tape are such.

Thank you.

My factory Glock triggers are smoothed out and plenty accurate for me.

Gunman1981 said:

If you shim the rear of the receiver, you’ll be forcing the barrel to contact the friend, which will cause the barrel contact.

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Even with the electrical tape wrapped around the receiver, plastic shim I am using free floats the barrel so I can readily slide copy paper around the barrel.

I could try just taping the sides of the receiver.

And I am all ears for smoothing out M&P Shield 9mm trigger (So will many THR members).

Again, thank you and welcome to THR.

Its a turkish mauser I picked up cheap, has a cheap aftermarket barrel installed with “8mm” the only marking. Headspace checks out ok. No sights. Gonna get a scope this week and see how it groups.

So I have this dremel and some time on my hands what do you suggest.

just kidding. Welcome to the forum.

Gunman1981 said:

If you shim the rear of the receiver, you’ll be forcing the barrel to contact the [foreend], which will cause the barrel contact

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Oh no, I am not shimming the bottom of the receiver, just wrapping the electrical tape around the side to back and to side again. Nothing under the receiver to tilt the barrel down.

Gunman1981 said:

You could bed the rifle, that will benefit you the most.

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I had intended to do that originally but since I was doing "real world" 10/22 break-in thread, I wanted to see if I could do simpler free float using shim under the V block to see if I could shrink group size to benefit other THR members. (BTW, it did)

Once the thread is done and barrel shot out, I plan to replace the barrel and free float it without using the shim.

And once again, thanks for all the good information and suggestions.

Any suggestions on smoothing out M&P Shield 9mm trigger?

Could you describe the exact volume of natural fibrous material that a Marmota Monax might discard assuming that the marmot is capable of discarding said natural fibrous material.

yes I’m facetious

and welcome to THR

Gunman1981 said:

That, along with clipping a coil or two from the striker safety

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Seriously? I wouldn't be messing with any system related to the safeties on a striker fired pistol that prevent unintended discharge without some serious liability coverage. It only takes one incident to bankrupt you.

Alaskan Ironworker said:

Have you ever seen a barrel this eccentric? And is it safe to shoot? Ive shot 10 rounds through it, but wouldnt mind a second opinion.

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Actually, yes I have. I ordered an octagonal .22 rimfire barrel from Numrich Arms quite a few years ago and the rifled bore was very similar to what you posted. Sent it back for a refund.

I'd like to know
Can a 10/22 ever run perfect?

Any way to get a Jennings J-22 to fire reliably?

Jim Bowie said:

I'd like to know
Can a 10/22 ever run perfect?

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Mine runs perfectly, right out of the box. Try using different ammo. I added a crank to mine and it can loose 25 rounds in three seconds.

OK, how much of your bench time, as a percentage, is spent on your knees?

Gunman1981 said:

I joined this forum to answer anything I may know the answer to. Please feel free to ask anything

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Here's a question for you.

Stevens Model 66 restoration project

This poor old .22 bolt action rifle (circa 1920) was poorly maintained and is worth virtually nothing except for the sentimental value it has for my wife's family. So, I'm in the process of a complete disassembly and deep cleaning of it.

I've run into a road block with the disassembly and I need a little advice.

For the life of me I can't figure out how to remove the stud from the brass inner magazine tube. I figured it must have been press fit through a hole in the knurled end cap but no amount of beating on it has had any effect. Today's Henry .22 rifles use the same design for its brass inner magazine tube.

Your words of wisdom would be most appreciated.

Here you can see the pointed end of the stud.





And here's the flat end of the stud.