value of model 10-6/10-10 S&W

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stonebuster

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I've been looking at a three model 10s at the range all for sale for $339/each. They were Dept of Correction guns and have the circular DC plate on them. The blue is only worn at end of barrels from holster wear, lock up is good and forcing cones look like new. No rust or pitting on any of them.They come with leather DC service holsters, speed loaders and leather belt pouches for extra bullets. I believe they're 10-6, 10-10, and 10-14 models. The 10-14 has the transfer bar and the other two have firing pin on hammer. Are they worth the $339? If so which is the better deal? I'm leaning toward the older two guns. Grips are Pachmar style.
 
I just bought a rough 10-6 for 250. That’s the route I would go. Pinned barrel and better internals are to be expected on the -6. It’s worth the money if you want a model 10.
 
Thanks WestKentucky, I've been walking by them at the range for a couple of weeks trying to curb my itch to buy one. Then I read your post and the itch is getting bad now. Good thing the range is closed today so I have another day to ponder it.
 
Go for It! I enjoy my Model 10 very much. You will, too. Personally, if one had a much better trigger than the other two, that's the one I'd buy.
 
In S&W's convoluted scheme of model numbering the model 10 dash "even number" guns are heavy barrel and the 10 dash "odd number" are pencil barreled. So I think the 3 guns involved are HB's. A lot of the K frames past -5 are round butt frames. I'd like to know which frame I had before I bought it.
 
If they're all in similar condition, I'd probably go with the -6. On a 4" gun I like a square butt. Pinned barrel and firing pin on the hammer are nice, but I'd go that route mostly because I think a square butt balances a little better.

If one has a noticeably better trigger, I'd say that trumps all though.
 
In S&W's convoluted scheme of model numbering the model 10 dash "even number" guns are heavy barrel and the 10 dash "odd number" are pencil barreled. So I think the 3 guns involved are HB's. A lot of the K frames past -5 are round butt frames. I'd like to know which frame I had before I bought it.
I believe the at the 10-6 I looked at was a pencil barrel model.
 
my S&W 10-5 round butt was a retired detectives revolver, it shoots much better than my S&W model 60 due to the better sights.
 

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All things being relatively equal between the 3 revolvers, I would probably go for the Model 10-6 as well.
 
What State were they issued in?

4" barrel medium frame revolvers such as the S&W re becoming a high demand gun as more and more folks are discovering the advantage of a single to operate, fixed sight 38 Special revolver for home defense. In addition with California causing major gun manufacturers to quit selling their semi-auto pistols there revolvers by default are becoming the handgun of choice. At that price I don't consider the engraving as lowering the value of it. They are shooters not collectors.

Old guys like me love the no-lock S&W revolvers. I would also lean towards the 10-6 first but I prefer the heavy barrel so the 10-10 would be in the running if it is a heavy barrel.
 
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I'm not as hung up on the age of the revolver as some of the others on this forum. The price is fair for any of them. I would go for a pencil barrel first as I just like the feel of them and the lighter weight. Beyond that, I'd go for the -14, if it's a round butt under the Pachmar's.
 
Bo,

T-grips and SQ Butt Magnas are where it's at.

I had a 19-3 set up like that. I shaved the SQ Butt Magnas down to a "carry melt" with a nickel plated T-grip. The poor man's combat stocks. f4DTl.jpg

Excuse the Dremel checking. It was a real beat up set of Ebay stocks.
 
gotboostvr

I shaved the SQ Butt Magnas down to a "carry melt" with a nickel plated T-grip.

I wasn't aware Tyler made any nickel plated T-Grips. I always thought they made like brushed or polished aluminum and matte or glossy black T-Grips. I have had this polished aluminum T-Grip for many years, having it originally on a S&W Model 38 that was nickel plated. Still resides on my Model 649. I keep it bright and shiny looking by polishing it with some Flitz every now and then.

bAwBulz.jpg
 
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gotboostvr

I wasn't aware Tyler made any nickel plated T-Grips. I always thought they made like brushed or polished aluminum and matte or glossy black T-Grips.

It may well be solid aluminum. If I remember whenever I come across whatever random box it's in, I'll have to check.
 
How much of a minus is the round DC plate mounted to right side of gun?
It’s a retired service revolver. Not a minus to have the plate on it. I’d rather have it there, personally. And I’d rather buy one of these than a re-imported, CAI stamped, no finish left gun for similar money.
 
Price on guns is good, not a screamin deal or anything.
But I'd pay it.

Any one of the three would be good, unless there's something special about them.
I'd probably go with the -6 IF all things are equal, such as lock-up, etc.

Let us know what you decide
 
I am a fan of the Model 10. The most I've ever paid is $300. The next most expensive is $125. A few years ago I bought 2 security guard M10s for $100 each. I got a new pencil barrel Model 64 as part of "I just want to get rid of these" estate deal for $300 some time ago . I offered $300 for the 1911 they had. They said for $300 take them all. 7 handguns for $300. Best gun deal I ever made.

I realize those kind of deals are long gone. I'm still looking for a 5".

I'd go $300 for a nice 10-6.

You can't have too many Model 10s.
 
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