New Reloader Needing advice

I have a sw9ve and reload for it with no issues, nice shooting gun, I do recommend installing a spring kit to lower the trigger pull but that's the only modification I've done

Howdy and welcome from Texas. I'm not entirely sure I understand your concern, but as a general rule, if the re-loaded ammunition is assembled correctly it should work in any firearm that it's chambered for.

Your reference to the "glock" problem is probably about bulged cases that are problematic to reload. I've not heard of this problem about SW. When you fire your SW with factory ammo, does it result in bulged cases?

.40

The 2 issues I've heard about with Glocks and reloading are the older models had a larger unsupported area in the chamber, leading to bulged cases, and the polygonal rifling not being conductive to shooting lead. In either event, you should be fine with your S&W, the older Sigma models were close enough to Glock's design to get sued over it, but I dont think the barrel design was the same, just stay within pressure limits for the cartridge.

If a gun is safe to shoot factory ammo there is no reason why you shouldn't shoot your handloads, unless you overload those handloads.

There is no problem re loading for any gun that I know except rimfire cases like 22s if you have good cases and the right equipment. Even with ammo shot from a glock with heavy loads you can run your 40s through a bulge buster from Lee and the problem goes away.

That doesn't mean the brass hasn't been over worked, but you said target loads which to me mean low to mid range.

Pull the barrel out of your Smith and use it for a chamber gauge. Drop a factory round in there so you know where the head of the case stops in the back of the chamber.
When you are loading your 40s, you should be able to drip one in there, have it land in the same place, and it should fall right back out.

If you have to help one in and back out by pushing on it, something isn't set up right or the brass needs to be culled, regardless of what it was shot out of.

Set your dies up, make a dummy round and drop it in the barrel.
You can find your max overall length you can seat to by doing that also but only for that particular barrel.
If it drops right in and you have to push it back out chances are the bullet is seated to long, You should see rifling marks on the bullets if this is the case.

If you didn't get any bulge out of the case during resizing, or didn't get all the flare out of the mouth, the case won't fall in the barrel the whole way.

Yup.
^^^^^ What he said.
Welcome brother.

The issue as I remember was Glock had "unsupported" chambers which left a bit of the body exposed and firing resulted in a "Glock Bulge, aka Glock Smile". I believe the problem was with the 40 S&W, but not sure. Die manufacturers have started manufacturing "Bulge Buster" dies that full length size, push through, to remove the bulge. Part of any reloading tool inventory is a set of micrometers, so check some cases fired in your gun to see if there is any bulging (measure the OD in a few places to see if there is any distortion). If so, the problem can be fixed and the brass will last almost as long as brass fired in "normal" chambers...

I've read new reloaders fretting about "problems" they have read about, mostly on line. And caution is fine, but don't look for cures, don't let worrying about problems you don't have stop you...

My SD40 has never had anything but reloads, it will be fine.

As said follow safe practices, do the test above and make your ammo writhing spec and you should be fine.

Like the others, I would not hesitate to reload for your new pistol. As always, start low and work up to the velocity/power level that you want. I have several guns that have never shot factory loads.

lightman said:

Like the others, I would not hesitate to reload for your new pistol. As always, start low and work up to the velocity/power level that you want. I have several guns that have never shot factory loads.

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OP didn’t say they had a new pistol. They said they were a new reloaded.
That said, I’d suggest using a box or two of new factory ammo on a new gun. It’s probably not necessary for an experienced reloaded, but for a newbie, it’s a way to make sure your gun is good and not having any issues before you introduce your own ammo.

Welcome to the madness.
I think you will find that handgun ammo is easier to do than bottle necked ammo. My girlfriends son and I both have SD 40's and we shoot my reloads in them all the time with no problems. We use both lead and plated/jacketed bullets. Most are loaded to near max levels to get accurate ammo. Just start at the start load and work up to an accurate load. You will be fine.

Lots of good advice already. Things I'd add for a new reloader getting into 40:

• You do need to watch neck tension. Make sure you're not getting setback in your rounds with your chosen components. Some headstamps of brass are thinner or less elastic than others, and projectiles can range from .4000 to .402 or larger.
• Loading straight-walled cartridges is much easier and less work than bottleneck rifle rounds. The relatively simplicity of this process can sometimes tempt a new loader into outrunning their processes. Enjoy the lack of lubing and trimming, but don't outrun your ability to pay attention to everything until you get the process down.
• I'd stay away from the tiny-charge of fast powder approach until you have your straight-walled process down to the point of unconscious competence. Lots of people use powders like Bullseye or Titegroup (especially) for .40, but since this is your first foray into pistol cartridges, I'd suggest something a little bulkier and less twitchy. Go for a mid-speed pistol powder that will make overcharges a little more visually apparent.
• Use your barrel for setting up your OAL. Consider getting a case gauge to check your regular production rounds.

Overall, I would say that the legend of .40 being prone to kabooms has more to do with the first generation of guns chambered in it, and the sheer number of people loading it 15 years ago, than anything really peculiar about it.

Robert Cooper said:

any suggestions on brass and bullets on the cheap some of us poor folk have to start small and that way the wife doesn't notice it LOL

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Range pickup brass is the cheapest way to get a start of brass...free.

This thread has posts where members have found sales online. Hazmat fees for primers and powder can drive up costs online. Either wait for a sale or pick these items up locally. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/where-are-there-reloading-components-on-sale.707473/

Once fired brass retailers thread...https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/once-fired-brass-retailers.849612/#post-11103341

.40

Here’s a video from the “Hot Lead Zone” that may answer some of your Glock questions. Not sure of the barrel on your S&W.

If the OP wants to send me a personal message with his address I'm sure I can part with some .40 brass no charge.

Robert Cooper said:

any suggestions on brass and bullets on the cheap some of us poor folk have to start small and that way the wife doesn't notice it LOL

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As said range pickup. Also pick up your own brass. I look for sales on factory ammo and consider it preloaded brass to reload. But I love reloading more than shooting.

Robert Cooper said:

Hokie, yes I have started loading 223. I needed a hobby lol. I do love reloading myself. For me to shoot I have to drive about an hour and 10 mins to a range. The nearest one from me. I only have a few guns 223 and a 40 At this time. When the wife is looking away I will add more LOL.

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I know the feeling

I used to live about 15 min from the range. Now I’m about an hour.

If you’re not already, get on Primary Arms mailing list (as well as others) When they have a flash sale order a bunch of stripped lowered. Keep them in a box. Then watch for sales on parts. A LPK from PSA, one week, a barrel the next, a handguard etc and next thing you know yo7 heave everything to build an AR.

Nope not a new rifle. Really I’ve had it for a long time (technically you did).

I promise you those stripped lowers mate and produce ARs

Robert Cooper said:

Yes i have had this gun for at least 10 yrs had about 300 rounds through it never had time to shoot was a carry gun for awhile so i am gonna work on it thanks

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I would highly recommend you shoot your carry gun a lot more!!! Shoot-reload-repeat!!!

Robert Cooper said:

any suggestions on brass and bullets on the cheap some of us poor folk have to start small and that way the wife doesn't notice it LOL

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Lots of good advice above on where, but you may want to consider your objective on "target" loads. If you want more trigger time with your carry gun you may want to shoot target loads that are similar to your other ammo -perhaps you meant SD ammo? That's what I do with my .40, and settled on plated or jacketed 180gr RNFP bullets to mimic my SD 180gr. RMR bullets is a great place to get them. WST or N320 powder will produce a light target load and hopefully prove accurate out of your gun. A slower powder like WSF, N340, PP, or CFE pistol will get you in to SD territory safely. It'll be more expensive to purchase 1# powder and 1K primers locally, but is a good option to get started and settled on a load you like. The local gun shows sometimes have local powder/primer vendors show up with specials. Once you have that down, the online purchase will usually be cheaper for 8# powder + 5K primers.
If you don't have a chrono stick to the published load data. Good luck and welcome aboard!