Removing rusted screw with buggered head. Got it out; update p.3 post #70

If you have fine slot files, then tape off the surrounding area and try to improve the slot enough to get a reasonable bit on the threaded part of the pin. Then an impact tool might work pretty well. I avoided impact tools for years and now have a complete set. They can really work well.

Otherwise, read my post above.

I might try a Dremel tool to clean that up. Otherwise, flatten it out and center punch, drill.

1KPerDay said:

0View attachment 1190598View attachment 1190599View attachment 1190600View attachment 1190601View attachment 1190602Pics for those who requested them

Click to expand...

If that were on my bench, I would flatten the screw head as much as possible to allow me to center punch a good dimple. I would drill as close to the minor diameter as possible and then run the tap in. The tap will cut the old threads of the screw out and clean up the threads in the receiver. You need a new screw anyway and you are going to need to chase those threads to remove the rust.

By the way, the acetone is not needed. ATF is a very good penetrating fluid by itself.

Kevin

1KPerDay said:

Going to try acetone+ATF for a while. I assume it’s supposed to be pink and separates quickly? I’m just shaking it up and then applying a little with a dropper

Click to expand...

Acetone + ATF is the poor mans Kroil. I have used both, Kroil always works better in these situations.

Maybe drill 2 holes in the head of the screw?



I think a TIG weld is you best bet.

Well...
There's always the old
.."if it ain't broke, don't fix it"..school of thought...

Clean up the burred head of the screw and leave it alone.

StrawHat said:

If that were on my bench, I would flatten the screw head as much as possible to allow me to center punch a good dimple. I would drill as close to the minor diameter as possible and then run the tap in. The tap will cut the old threads of the screw out and clean up the threads in the receiver. You need a new screw anyway and you are going to need to chase those threads to remove the rust.

Click to expand...

I use that method myself, when others don't work. Probably the most risky, when it comes to making things much worse than they already are. Last time I used the method was removing a portion of an ARP bolt from a new engine, a long way down a blind hole.



Alignment has to be absolutely perfect, if you cut into the parent threads of the part, you risk forever locking the fastener in place, not to mention less threads for holding the new fastener, if you do get it out. I turned a piece of bar stock, in this instance so the drill is perfectly centered and on axis.



All the way down to the broken part.



Then drill baby drill but if you break that sucker off, no one is going to want to touch it and you are F dash dash dashed...



The reason it has to be perfect is easy to see when you do get the threads out. If they are not rings, you got into the part you were wanting to save. As the drill is the drill for the tap's size.



Then go back with your tap.




and new fastener.

Even then thats a last resort, when I machine the guide bushing, I almost always try a lefthand drill after making a pilot hole, only going up in size as my options run out.

Making a smaller hole in the fastener with a regular drill.



Then going up in size with the left hand, the closer the two are in diameter, the more the larger one wants to grab the part and spin it back out.






but again, if I can get to it to weld on it, the speed of removal is way faster and less work/risk of being unsuccessful. If it is just rust, it will probably spin right out, once the heat of the weld breaks that bond. Just like that broken stud in my first post.

1KPerDay said:

My concern with welding is damaging the receiver metal. The diameter of the screw head is only about .214”

Click to expand...

Get a piece of sheet metal and drill out a 0.214” hole or so for a shield, if it comes down to tig welding a nut on there.

I would continue your kroil and heat, as well as some vibration on the threads with a hammer and punch with light taps to break free the rust bond and get that Kroil down in the fissures.

1KPerDay said:

My concern with welding is damaging the receiver metal. The diameter of the screw head is only about .214”

Click to expand...

I wouldn't use a stick welder. Whats the diameter of that ball point pin tip, well under .2" and that bit is about half that diameter.



Just like those other methods, if it's not a, "well, of course you do it that way." understanding. One is probably better off taking it to someone that does.

Most of the people that call me to remove broken fasteners now call me right away. That's because they have seen the difference in the bill, when someone has tried and failed before they call.

A gunsmith's standby for stubborn screw removal is to chuck a close fitting Brownell's Magna-Tip screwdriver bit in a drill press.
Unplug the press and position the part on the drill table.
Lower the bit into the screw and put hard down pressure on the quill as you turn the chuck with a steel rod.

Often this will keep the driver bit engaged enough to break the screw loose.

I did like the "create a flat" and "cross drill a hole" ideas for the opposite end of the fastener. IF you could get to it well enough to do it nicely.

I too like to try non-destructive methods of fastener removal before rolling up the sleeves and committing to sacrificing the fastener, especially a one-off), but sometimes it's necessary. I like the Laser Micro-impact driver that accepts 1/4" hex bits opening up the whole tool box of Brownells Magna-bits and others to fit the fastener.

I have tried the drill press / mill vise program a few times. The difficulties for me have been fixing the gun work in the vise adequately; always seems like the trigger guard or forend wood etc. with curved geometries were hard to secure in the vise and still get to the fastener.

A number of years ago, inspired by the B-Square Screw Jack device, I fabricated a rigid screw jack that was easier for me to align and secure the part for screw removal. Importantly, I designed it to have access from above the rigid frame work to provide 360 degree rotation of the fastener driver.

Some examples of where I deployed it: Browning forend hardware fastener & cartridge cut-off screw (eventually required the Grab-It extractors which have always worked great!), Winchester 1903 .22 Automatic ejector screw.

........as T. Edison famously stated, "I have never failed however I have discovered 10,000 ways that won't work!".

Try hitting a screwdriver but into the slot, then with a punch from the back side. That impact is manic for stuck screws.

1KPerDay said:

That bent screwdriver tip is telling. I don’t think I can get that much torque on the destroyed screw head though. Maybe if I cut a slot or drill a hole on the other end.

Click to expand...

You know, there isn't anyway to gain experience without doing. If its important to you, I'd suggest you take it to someone that already has it. If you just want to learn something, you will, regardless of what method you decide upon.

The only reasons I chose the methods I do on various problems is from seeing the successes and failures of them in use, in different situations and you can't see that without starting somewhere.

I like like to send a shock wave down the bolt or screw with a sledge hammer to free it up first then remove it ,
I would use the impact screw driver with the right tip after applying the shockwave , and I believe it will come right out .

..........Brownells Kinks. Bending is the progression to breaking it. I believe it's Wheeler Engineering that claims they design their
bits to break before the screw head breaks......how dooo they know?

My vote is with the Magna tip screwdriver in a drill press. I’ve been a gunsmith for 50 years and have not had this method fail many times. My last experience was on a 92 that I call my “road kill” rifle. It was found beside the road having been run over and left to rust. After soaking in Kroil for weeks, I was able to get all of the screws out including the small cartridge guide screws by using the proper Magnatip tips in my drill press. I would not trust anything but genuine Magma-tips for this application. The Magnatip Master Set was the best tool purchase I ever made.

Lay a nut over the end & hit it w the tig.

If you can find it, my favorite for stuck hardware is called Krax-It made by Hapco. I used it on an old disc harrow to remove rusted bolts. Sprayed it, came back in half an hour, speayed it again, came off like it was never rusted.

Tag...

Best of the luck to the OP.

AND...

MANY thanks to those posting their years of experience-free of charge.

I'm not the OP, but I'm learning a helluva lot of good stuff, and I've been around awhile.

Thank you, Gentlemen.

Jonah77 said:

Tag...

Best of the luck to the OP.

AND...

MANY thanks to those posting their years of experience-free of charge.

I'm not the OP, but I'm learning a helluva lot of good stuff, and I've been around awhile.

Thank you, Gentlemen.

Click to expand...

As have I. Very interested in what finally works!

AND if you elect to try to turn it don't forget the old plumbers trick of FIRST try a tightening twist before trying to out it. Had that work for the problem even when using the prick punch method!!