Removing rusted screw with buggered head. Got it out; update p.3 post #70

[1KPerDay]

Right side carrier screw on an old 1894 (1910 production) is frozen in place and one of the previous owners buggered the head badly. So it’s been rusted in place for at least 50 years and I’m guessing quite a few more. I was able to get the guts out because the carrier is the old flexible type with a slot cut in it. But the screw and the post/inside non threaded portion remains. I’ve been heat cycling it and applying Kroil for a couple of weeks but it still won’t budge. My next plan is to try to get a good enough grip on the inside protruding portion with a needle nose vise grip or other suitable locking pliers. But that will obviously destroy it if it slips and probably even if it doesn’t.

What’s the next set of options? Drill the screw and try an EZ out? It’s not proud enough of the receiver that I can cut a better slot in it.

 

[MikeInOr]

When I saw your thread title heat and Kroil is what immediately came to mind.

Some pictures would probably go a very long way to getting you some good suggestions.

 

[nettlle]

Soak it in Kroil for a couple of days then put the tip of a soldering iron on the head of the screw to heat it. I have drifted screws out with a sharp center punch by punching the edge of the screws had tapping the center punch counterclockwise with a hammer. Go slow.

 

[Col. Harrumph]

You've been at it a couple of weeks-- that shows remarkable patience. Before you try anything more drastic, I'd counsel continued exercise of your primary skill (patience). Keep Kroiling and heat cycling it for another month or two.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Have you tried Rost Off? It's like penetrating oil in dry-ice. I've seen it break loose some insanely seized fasteners.

Rost Off Max Ice Penetrating Lubricant | Releasing Agents | Lubricants | Chemical Product | Wurth USA

Rost Off Max Ice Description 9 oz. Aerosol This product represents the latest breakthrough in penetrating lubricant technology. By combining rapid freezing action with an advanced, rust eating formula, seized or rusted parts are easily released. Shrinkage of sprayed parts quickly breaks open...

www.wurthusa.com

 

[Lefty38-55]

FWIW, Practical Machinist magazine did an exhaustive test and a 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid (ATF), was SIGNIFICANTLY better than Kroil at any other penetrating solution!

Make sure you rap on the head with a well fitting screw driver blade.

Another option I have seen is to have someone hold it vertical in the slot. Then you put some baking soda around the screw head, with the driver in the slot and put a couple drops of crazy glue just on the powder by the blade. Still hold it vertical while it cures then try. Note it must be cleaned well (naptha or lighter fluid is THE best cleaner!) before trying this …

You can also try cycles of heat and then cooling, IF it is possible to isolate the parts that are stuck together.

 

[Show Me]

When you work by your self you spend decades learning there's no one answer but your better off using destructive disassembly for last. Your on it good now. Kroll or what ever creeping oil and temp change. Nothing will be magic. I have used a tiny Dremel round mill bit and bore down in front sight screws till a tiny easy out would grasp on. But remember easy outs work for screws broken or buggered. Seized threads can be tight enough to snap the tiny removal tool. Quite the challenge and it's excellent your patient

 

[NMexJim]

I took a look at this screw online, and these screws appear to be readily available.

If all else fails, maybe this.

What I would ponder (like for a couple of days) would be to center punch as near center as I could get (and I'd take a lot of time to establish that to the best of my ability and use a fine center punch). I would then take the smallest bit I could, and carefully drill out to a point just below the threads. I would then increase the size of the drill bits until I was pretty thin-walled. I would then try to pry the remaining screw away from the thread.

That'd be the first problem out of the way. At this point, the pin may punch right out. I have a selection of bottoming mills that I could go in an flatten the top of the remaining pin. I'd do that and then try to punch the remainder out.

If this makes you queasy (and it would me too a little bit and I have access to a knee mill and a machinist vice), I'd find a gunsmith.

 

[Show Me]

Got to get a flat spot going for the bit to stay true. Perfect arm chair project

 

[1KPerDay]

Have you tried Rost Off? It's like penetrating oil in dry-ice. I've seen it break loose some insanely seized fasteners.

Rost Off Max Ice Penetrating Lubricant | Releasing Agents | Lubricants | Chemical Product | Wurth USA

Rost Off Max Ice Description 9 oz. Aerosol This product represents the latest breakthrough in penetrating lubricant technology. By combining rapid freezing action with an advanced, rust eating formula, seized or rusted parts are easily released. Shrinkage of sprayed parts quickly breaks open...

www.wurthusa.com

I’ve tried heating it and then spraying canned air on it which cools it off very quick.

 

[nettlle]

Don't cool it off. That puts you right back to where you started from.

 

[Armored farmer]

I have had success with L.H. bits....but always on bigger bolts.
More kroil+more time

 

[1KPerDay]

But remember easy outs work for screws broken or buggered. Seized threads can be tight enough to snap the tiny removal tool.

I didn’t think about this. The other carrier screw’s slot was in good shape and it was still very tight getting that screw out. If I snap off the EZout that will just make it all worse. Hmmmm

 

[1KPerDay]

Don't cool it off. That puts you right back to where you started from.

Well the idea is to heat up one part and cool off the other so they shrink at different rates. Helps with bearings and races but it’s not really easy to do with a stuck screw.

Or maybe shock the threads enough that they break their bond a little.

 

[1KPerDay]

Pics for those who requested them

 

[bob97]

If you don’t care about the screw, I would be tempted to TIG weld a nut onto it. Looks big enough

 

[1KPerDay]

Going to try acetone+ATF for a while. I assume it’s supposed to be pink and separates quickly? I’m just shaking it up and then applying a little with a dropper

 

[1KPerDay]

If you don’t care about the screw, I would be tempted to TIG weld a nut onto it. Looks big enough

I think before I tried that I’d drill sideways through the stub on the inside and try to turn it out with a punch or Allen key or something.

 

[1KPerDay]

I guess I could also try to cut a slot in the stub inside the receiver, reach a screwdriver through the other carrier screw hole, and try to turn it “in” that way.

 

[irving]

Since the screw looks like it's already destroyed, I might try to file a couple of flats on the inside portion, then turn it with a crescent wrench.

 

[1KPerDay]

Or if I can get good enough at putting it back together with the stub in place, I may just leave it alone. The pin/stub still does its job locating/pivoting the carrier…

The mangled screw head does bug me though.

 

[1KPerDay]

Since the screw looks like it's already destroyed, I might try to file a couple of flats on the inside portion, then turn it with a crescent wrench.

Not a bad idea either. Assuming I could get the flats reasonably parallel

 

[Armored farmer]

If you don’t care about the screw, I would be tempted to TIG weld a nut onto it. Looks big enough

If you're going to weld on it....weld a washer to the screw...then weld a bigger diameter nut to the washer.

 

[MarshallDodge]

Have you tried a 1/4" impact at a slow pace?

 

[jmorris]

I vote for a full stop. If you don't know you can get it out just stop before you make it worse for the guy that has to fix it, most of the (unsuccessful) attempts I have seen in the past were from people that had the best intensions in mind just not the best methods.

A TIG welder, in the right hands can remove lots of things, down too tiny drill bits broken off in parts.



Even down inside a hole.






If it doesn't look like a simple problem to solve, take it to someone that thinks it is simple, there are a number of ways one can make it more complicated than it needs to be.

It's a lot easier to start with simply "stuck", than "stuck and mangled with broken off, not center drilled, hardened extractor/bit."

Lots of ways to make an easy job much harder, when it comes to stuck fasteners.