10 mm Revolver

gns4me

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Dec 20, 2005
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I have been lusting after a Ruger 10 mm GP-100 lately. Has anybody here have any experience with it? How does shoot? Full power house 10 mm loads? ..40 cal loads?
 
Does it headspace the cartridge on the mouth, or with moon clips? If moon clips, you should be good to go with either .40 or 10mm, but if it headspaces on the mouth, .40 won't work, unless the cylinder is also cut for moon clips. Personally, I'm not a big fan of revolvers chambered for rimless cartridges.
 
I have a S&W 610; N frame (I'm unashamedly a S&W fan boy)

I would love to get my hands on a Ruger MC 10mm but I've never seen one in person.

The GP-100 size (much like the S&W L frame) is perfect for the 10mm, in IMHO.
 
I have a 5” Lew Horton 610. I also have the Ruger MC.

The Smith uses the same diameter moonclips to reliably ignite both .40 short and weak and 10mm. The MC needs thicker moonclips to ignite .40 s&w.

Not that big a deal for me, but anyone going into it should know this ahead of time.


I only shoot starline 10mm brass. The 10mm starline also fits in the 0.05” clips. I’ve heard other brand’s extractor grooves are too narrow.

End of the day, if you’re planning on shooting .40 from your ruger, you’ll need the 0.05” clips.

1706369628851.jpeg

The smith is bigger, and heavier and soaks up more recoil.

The MC shooting fairly max loads in 10mm feels about like fairly max .357 mag. When shooting .40 it feels like +p .38 special. If you’re a reloader then you can definitely make some powder puff mouse fart loads in both calibers.

Your mileage may vary
 
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They use moon clips but good luck finding one lipsey I believe did a limited run on a 3inch with Novak sites. They have been scarcer then hens teeth
 
Sorry the GP was a Wiley Clapp the Blackhawk was a LipesyI had a 40/10mm with different cylinders dumbest thing I did was sell it
 
I own a S&W 610 (no dash). It's the 6.5-inch full underlug version. I shot that revolver a heap in USPSA revolver division with 40S&W and loved it. That said an N-frame is a bit larger for 10mm Auto (the Super Redhawk more so). The Ruger GP100 is, IMHO the perfect size for that cartridge. The only thing better, being a S&W fan boy, would be if S&W finally got around to making an L-frame in 10mm but for some reason they never have. They did make a 40S&W L-frame (646) a few years ago but the titanium cylinder caused issues. A stainless cylinder in 10mm would be awesome. All in all 10/40 in a revolver is a very nice combination. Moonclips rule!
 
I own a S&W 610 (no dash). It's the 6.5-inch full underlug version. I shot that revolver a heap in USPSA revolver division with 40S&W and loved it. That said an N-frame is a bit larger for 10mm Auto (the Super Redhawk more so). The Ruger GP100 is, IMHO the perfect size for that cartridge. The only thing better, being a S&W fan boy, would be if S&W finally got around to making an L-frame in 10mm but for some reason they never have. They did make a 40S&W L-frame (646) a few years ago but the titanium cylinder caused issues. A stainless cylinder in 10mm would be awesome. All in all 10/40 in a revolver is a very nice combination. Moonclips rule!

As I may have said before, I'm not a big guy but I have big hands and the S&W N frame just fits me; was the 1st firearm I ever bought (a 6" 629 at 18 years old nearly 35 years ago) and...well...it's a S&W.

Truth be told however, the 'L' frame/GP is, probably, the ideal platform for the 10mm in a revolver.

I admit that I bought my 610 with the intention of punching it out to a 10mm Magnum but I wasn't thinking about how much the barrel length might effect the end result.
 
With my GP100 you don’t have to use moon clips for the 10mm but you can. You have to use the moon clips for the 40 caliber. A pleasure to shoot in either caliber even with my old hands.

Pictured below with a matching 7 round 327……

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I've got .45 Colt for that. .45 ACP belongs in a 1911, and I have that covered too, although I might would enjoy a M25-2 S&W....
Oh, you shoot 45C in your 1860? I figured you'd say only a round ball belongs in them . . . .
But, since you brought it up, I can shoot 45C OR 45acp in my 60's as well as a '73 copy. When I shoot 45acp though, I can shoot low power to +P's without changing springs . . . Can a 1911 do that?
It's all good.
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What about Rifles? Thompson ?
Mike
 
Oh, you shoot 45C in your 1860? I figured you'd say only a round ball belongs in them . . . .
But, since you brought it up, I can shoot 45C OR 45acp in my 60's as well as a '73 copy. When I shoot 45acp though, I can shoot low power to +P's without changing springs . . . Can a 1911 do that?
It's all good.
View attachment 1191643
What about Rifles? Thompson ?
Mike
That's a beautiful pair of open tops. What I have is a Uberti SAA clone , a S&W M25-5 and a Henry Big Boy for .45 Colt. I can run just about anything in the .45ACP load data in my 1911A1, but I don't run hot loads in any of them. If I want hot, I get the .41M. Proper tool for the proper job.
 
I have an S&W 610 10mm revolver. It shoots well. I do use moon clips, I've gotten into them but I found on 10mm ammunition and 40 S&W ammunition the extractor groove can be different and "one size fits all"moon clip does not necessarily apply.

I've only shot W-W white box in my gun and its performance has not been stellar to what I was expecting. But, I have not shot any reloads in the gun or chronographed any loads.

Since I reload, I prefer to shoot cartridges appropriate to what the chamber is machined for. So my gun will probably not see any more 40 S&W cartridges in the future unless it is a dire emergency.

My choice and not a statement on what others should do.
 
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