Brushing necks, what exactly do you mean.

Charlie98 said:

I guess my question would be: Is it necessary? Aside from additional lever effort to seat a bullet, is there a benefit to lubing, or even just brushing the necks?

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It certainly isn't necessary, as many people have never done it.
I only do it when loading .243 Win.
The benefit has nothing to do with the effort of seating a bullet, at least for me it doesn't. For me it is beneficial in the sizing process. I don't have the problem with .30-06 sizing, but with .243 Win the case seems to always hang on the expander ball when bringing the case back down. I've used different brands of dies to no avail, it always seems to happen to me. So a couple quick passes with a brush lubed with a dry lube takes care of it.

I've never had an issue with neck tension after this process.

Hope this helps.

Arkansas Paul said:

but with .243 Win the case seems to always hang on the expander ball when bringing the case back down. I've used different brands of dies to no avail, it always seems to happen to me.

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I fixed that very problem by making sure I get some OneShot inside the case necks when I'm spraying. Yes, I have to line up all the brass to do it, but seems to be worth the effort.

This has been an interesting discussion. I'll chime in with what I do but I readily admit I only do it this way because that's how I was taught and have always done it. I should take a page from some of these other folks and actually test to see if it makes a difference.

My general case prep process:

1. Dry tumble
2. Lube case (usually with Hornady resizing wax)
3. Resize/deprime
4. Trim (if I'm going to trim, which I don't usually unless I need to)
5. Chamfer and deburr case mouths (using Lyman hand tools)
6. Brush case necks (using RCBS case neck brush---in and out twice, firmly, twisting as I go)
7. Prime
8. Charge
9. Seat

I have sometimes wondered if I should instead/also brush the case neck before resizing. I do it where I do because I like brushing out the small pieces that are left after chamfering and deburring. I've thought about this before, but my process is so ingrained and rote a this point that I have a hard time remembering to try it differently.

Okie_Poke said:

This has been an interesting discussion. I'll chime in with what I do but I readily admit I only do it this way because that's how I was taught and have always done it. I should take a page from some of these other folks and actually test to see if it makes a difference.

My general case prep process:

1. Dry tumble
2. Lube case (usually with Hornady resizing wax)
3. Resize/deprime
4. Trim (if I'm going to trim, which I don't usually unless I need to)
5. Chamfer and deburr case mouths (using Lyman hand tools)
6. Brush case necks (using RCBS case neck brush---in and out twice, firmly, twisting as I go)
7. Prime
8. Charge
9. Seat

I have sometimes wondered if I should instead/also brush the case neck before resizing. I do it where I do because I like brushing out the small pieces that are left after chamfering and deburring. I've thought about this before, but my process is so ingrained and rote a this point that I have a hard time remembering to try it differently.

Click to expand...

I like to brush before as it seems to make sizing easier but also any material in the neck when the ball goes through would displace the neck brass giving variation in roundness and the neck OD. If that material comes out after the ball does its thing the neck ID would be bigger on that case. I just do that free hand with a good round brush. Sometimes I will ream if rings are forming in the lower neck.

I brush after trimming and debur for the same reasons as you. I do also brush all the case inside at that step to knock out any carbon or clinkers left from media or powder. It is surprizing how much will come out of the case. Just don't get into the base too much as the wire at the end of the brush can rat out the flash hole and scratch the case inside - just let the brush wire contact the case. Sometimes I will bend and shape the brush to get closer to the case profile - since I spin in a drill press only one side of the brush is needed so if the brush is a little small or out of round it doesn't matter. Mainly use older brushes that are worn down from cleaning barrels out.

Lyman 50 has a section just on brass prep that makes some good points - think it was on reloading the 22-250. It talks about brushing necks and flash hole cleaning etc...

The Lyman case prep machine has a new.... appendage!

I have had one of those red plastic gizmos from Forster for several years. I replaced the Mica with graphite in mine.

Which is better, Brass, Bronze, or Nylon?
My thinking is the brass or bronze would be better to smooth the inside of the neck allowing for more solid contact.

rdnktrkr said:

Which is better, Brass, Bronze, or Nylon?
My thinking is the brass or bronze would be better to smooth the inside of the neck allowing for more solid contact.

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My thinking is nylon won't scratch the brass......just like bronze and brass won't scratch the steel gun barrel.....for which they were designed to clean.

Charlie98 said:

The Lyman case prep machine has a new.... appendage!

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A case prep center is on my short list of tools to add to the bench.
I use the Lee trimmers because I loathe having to make a dozen tiny adjustments when changing calibers that I'm trimming. The Lee system is so easy, just screw in the caliber specific rod and start trimming.
Well now Lee makes the trimmer that screws onto your prep center, so you can trim and immediately chamfer, deburr, clean the primer pocket, and brush the case neck. Gotta get me one.

I normally use a universal decapping die first. Then, to an RCBS case prep center with primer pocket brushes, a bronze bore brush for cleaning any excess carbon, then a nylon bore brush for applying a light coat of Imperial before pulling a sizing button thru the sized case neck. Before doing the double bore brush deal, some of my case necks were noticeably stiff and noisy trying to pull the expander thru on the way out. Then I toss the cases in a corncob tumbler with some polish. I get much more consistent neck tension now.

Nylon

rdnktrkr said:

Which is better, Brass, Bronze, or Nylon?
My thinking is the brass or bronze would be better to smooth the inside of the neck allowing for more solid contact.

Click to expand...

The BR guys burnish the burnt carbon with a Nylon bore diameter brush leaving a smooth carbon surface that acts as a lube when seating bullets.
Try it just prior to seating, you’ll notice a huge difference in seating resistance.