Pietta Remington 1863 Questions

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rodwha

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I am interested in this little pistol, and a few questions...

1) Is the base pin removable or is it like the 1858 with the 5.5" barrel in which it only slides enough to remove the cylinder, but is obstructed by the lever latch?

2) Do these often have chambers that don't line up well with the barrel?

3) Are the chambers often much smaller than the groove diameter?

4) Is the loading lever assembly rather fragile? If so what usually bends/breaks?

5) I've tried to find the groove/land, and chambers diameters, but cannot seem to find this. Does anyone know?

6) I've seen differing chamber capacity (3F) of 12-15 grns. Can anyone verify? And is this max capacity an actual chamber full prior to seating a ball? For instance I can literally fill my Old Army chamber, and still seat a bare ball, which leaves the ball slightly below the chamber mouth.

7) Does a .319" RB shave a ring?
 
#4, The rammer asssembly often breaks at the hinge hole. A real pain to repair and likely to repeat. Load off the revolver when possible.

The broken rammer is the reason I converted one to 22 LR in the 70s. What a pain that was to do. Looking back, there were a few things I did not know back then that I have since learned. I doubt I would even try it now.
 
No, the hole through which the screw passes doesn't leave a lot of surrounding metal. The surrounding metal is what breaks, usually at the thinnest point.
 
You could always buy a spare lever assembly and experiment.

But really, with the Remington design it's really easy to just pop out the cylinder and just use a short starter or whatever instead of fussing around with the little tiny lever and little tiny everything.
 
I've seen the video in which Mike Beliveau uses a short starter to load a .31 cal cylinder, but I wondered if it loads the balls squarely or not. Couldn't it possibly make the ball a little uneven?
 
It's hard to seat them all to the same depth with a short starter. If you're really striving for consistency you would want to find or make a loading setup that will handle a .31. But you should also consider that there are other sources of inconsistency with these things - it's hard to measure a 10gr load to the same percentage variation as a 30gr load...
 
I've seen the video in which Mike Beliveau uses a short starter to load a .31 cal cylinder, but I wondered if it loads the balls squarely or not. Couldn't it possibly make the ball a little uneven?
It is nearly impossible to load a round ball unevenly. I am sure someone could do it but it would take a lot of effort.
 
"According to Pietta, the Chambers are .31496, Lands are .31102 and grooves .32677"

I've generally heard that if one were to open up the chambers for a better ball fit for accuracy, you'd go just over groove diameter. Correct?

I hadn't realized the groove diameter was that large (I thought it was closer to .321-323"). As I'd use max loads (or near max) of 3F Olde Eynsford/Swiss/Triple 7 I'm not sure if I'd want to thin the walls out that much since I'm not sure just how much strain they can handle.

I don't even see how this great of a difference allows for any velocity or accuracy???

How far would you feel comfortable opening the chambers and using a more powerful powder?
 
I use the loading tool for my NAA super companion to start the ball then use the loading lever on the gunto saet the ball. And 12 gr 777, shoots more than a foot high at 10 yards
 
According to Pietta, the Chambers are .31496, Lands are .31102 and grooves .32677
That's incredible. That means Pietta intentionally produces a gun with a design flaw that causes inaccurate shooting: the chambers, being smaller in diameter than the barrel groove diameter by 0.01181", will swage the ball into a shape that will allow combustion gas blow-by in the barrel.

By the way, I really doubt removing 0.0059" from the chamber walls will introduce any additional risk in the cylinder's structural integrity.
 
Would a ball diameter (after swaging) of 0.32086" be a good enough fit for holding the pressure behind the ball?

I had initially figured that upon striking the riflings that the lead was swaged to fit the dimensions, kinda form fitted in which the ball's original diameter was roughly in-between groove/land so that the area that contacted the lands was moved to fit into the grooves. Since this is obviously not the case what is happening? Is the ball becoming elongated?
 
Mykeal, that seems to be common from what i hear of a lot of people measuring their guns.Not sure why, maybe a safety thing? Less pressure, or to make chamber-barrel misalignment problems be less of a problem? At least this is something that is not hard to fix. I have been thinking about buying some reamers the right size for my guns and them making them available here to other to borrow. There are a few older posts on THR that have reamed their cylinders to the proper size, witch would really be slightly larger than groove of the barrel, and they had good results.This is part of the reason i have been asking questions from some of the target competetors about what they do to their guns to improve them,like if they had custom barrels or whatnot to their stock guns. Ideally the best way to ream chambers would be to have some sort of bushing that went in the barrel and allows you to run a long reamer through the barrel bushing and into the chambers. This would be close to a line boring and would in therory help true up barrel to chamber alighnment along with making the chambers the right size.May sound complicated to some but really would be something any of us could do with the right tool if the gun was not way off to start with.
 
"By the way, I really doubt removing 0.0059" from the chamber walls will introduce any additional risk in the cylinder's structural integrity."

Looking at it again I suppose I misunderstood. Taking that amount off of each "side" of the chamber, which would be to enlarge the chamber by 0.0118", thereby giving a diameter of 0.32676".
 
what is happening? Is the ball becoming elongated?
Well, yes and no.

The lands will, of course, create a groove in the side of the ball. The material that's removed to form the groove goes three directions: towards both sides and rearward. How much goes where depends to some degree on how soft the alloy is. It also depends on how deep the barrle grooves are, or conversely, how tall the lands are. It may or may not fill up the void between the ball and the cylinder groove, but in general I think it's unlikely. It's easy enough to check, however: swage a ball into a chamber, then push it through the barrel.

Yes, undersize chambers are common amongst the Italian replicas. Unfortunately, it's impossible to generalize and say one manufacturer is better or worse than another with respect to this parameter. Amongst my revolvers, the Colts (that is, the guns manufactured by Colt's Manufacturing and Colt Black Powder) are the best, Ruger is a very close second, and ASM are the worst; Uberti and Pietta are kind of in the middle with just as many good examples as bad.
 
The reason it works is that the ball is swelling up as it leaves the chamber from the force of the blast. This is why you need to use soft lead in black powder guns. Same thing happens in a rifle with a patch.

distorted ball.jpg
 
That's true with hollow based conicals in which the base is made to expand, but I don't believe round balls expand in diameter, which is what would be necessary. The physics of that just doesn't seem possible.

The reason for soft lead is to make swaging on loading easier.
 
As soon as that ball leaves the cylinder I doubt it changes because of anything other than slamming into the lands and spreading into the grooves. If the grooves are larger than the diameter of the chambers, the lands ,I would think,would have to be smaller than chamber size.This way the lead is forced to swage to the correct dimensions.
 
I am not experienced with cap and ball revolvers at all, so forgive me if this is a stupid question...

Can you use a hollow base bullet from a .32 caliber modern revolver instead of a ball for a black powder revolver? If you can, you might as well use those, and forget reaming your chambers...
 
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