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At this point, I'm not all that concerned. From what I've learned here in this thread and another on another forum, I've got a old Rock Chucker made in 1974. Good enough for what info I was seeking.

Well, I was incorrect.............and you guys were correct. There WAS something stamped on top. I can't tell for sure if it's "7A" or "74". I contacted RCBS customer service a couple of days ago and haven't heard back from them.............which is why I asked here on the forum. Any way...

Nope.

No date on the die bushing on mine.

I've got a Rock Chucker. It's an old one. I need to know exactly what model Rock Chucker this is. Is there anyone here familiar enough with RCBS who could tell me, without a doubt, which model I have? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks. I know the SAMMI spec measurement. Just wondering what the longest COL would be for the magazine. It's an M96. Aware of the differences...........thanks.

I've got a Swedish Mauser I'm going to start loading for. It's buried in the back of the safe right now and I'm too lazy to go dig it out. (at least I admit it!) ;) When I get to it to start reloading, I'll be able to measure the throat of the chamber and the magazine, but I was wondering if...

Unfortunately gun control never turns out well!

I have purchased from Optics Planet in the past. One thing I can count on is to place my order and then wait so long I want to cancel it. Took me 6 months to buy a scope from them once. It was a discontinued Nikon scope they claimed to have in stock. Truth of the matter, they took my order...

I'm trying to find a Buckmaster 4-12 scoope. If you want to get rid of one, let me know. Thanks.

It simply boils down to.........................if I buy it for a specific purpose, then that's what I use it for. If it's a fancy collector (which I have none of) then it goes in a display case. If it's a hunting knife, pocket knife or carving knife, I use the durned thing for it's purpose...

Well, I've never used either, but I've always admired Buck knives for being really good "consumer" grade knives. I'm sure these will do just fine for me.

Would have worked, I imagine. But what I did was to use a bullet lube I make out of Crisco, Vaseline and Bees Topping Wax. I warmed the handle in the oven to 150 degrees and rubbed a block of the lube on it and it soaked right in. The leather has a "grip" to it now I bet it didn't have when...

I inherited that one and a Mod 110..........both NIB. I figure they might both come in handy if the SHTF someday.

I've got a Buck Mod #119 that's new-in-the-box. The only time it's been out of the box has been to admire it. Box has a $20 price marked on it....................so I'm guessing it's a pretty old knife. On Buck's site it indicates it was made between 1960 and 1972. Dang thing is mighty...

I really have no interest in trying to restore this knife to it's original condition. But I would like to protect the leather somewhat. I think neatsfoot oil, mixed with beeswax ought to protect it just fine. This knife is just going in my "bug-out" stuff............just in case. As my...

Okay, I've got that God awful black paint off the handle. Soaked it in Acetone for a while and got the paint out of the cracks and crevices. I dried it at 150 degrees for an hour, so the leather is dry now. It has a great tactile grip surface now, even though the sanding took off the...

Thanks for the sanding suggestions.

Sorry, but I was in a meeting until late last night and am just now seeing these posts. You'll have to give me an example of a ricasso because I have no idea what that is. I don't have time to photograph the knife today. No markings on it except the words "Camillus USA" on the blade up next...

I have an old Camillus knife, with the original leather scabbard, that looks like the WWII military Ka-Bar fighting knives. I have no idea how old it is, for sure. But it looks to me as if it would make a nice woodcraft knife. In fact, I keep it in my "bug out" stash. The only thing I don't...