There's nothing at all wrong with the 158grn LSWCHP +Ps. Damn fine load, if you avoid old-stock Federal plain leads or nyclad. Winchester or Remmie are good, or old stock Cor-Bon or Bufallo Bore are wonderfully hot - the latter two are for strong steel guns such as recent-vintage steel S&W snubs, the SP101, etc.
Only one small issue: the "shoulder" on the Keith-profile projectile can hang up speedloading. A lot of people load the 158s "first at bat" and then keep speedloaders of something else available, with the 135s a top contender. Other good ones: the 125 Speers or the Winchester 130 Supreme.
Oh, and the Cor-Bon 110s and 125s are also hotter than hell, "for strong 38s or 357 guns only" in my opinion.
To be clear: I own a vintage Charter Arms 38Spl snubbie. I think it's about the same in terms of strength as a '70s vintage steel S&W snubbie or a Colt Dick Special. I'll run mild amounts of the Winchester or Remington 158+P lead loads, the Speer 125s and 135s and the Winchester 130. I will shoot NO Cor-Bon 38+P at all, or any Bufallo Bore 38+P.
I do the vast amount of my practice with standard pressure lead (148s when possible, usually 158s), and a little bit of standard pressure 130 hardball.
That's my personal *opinion* as to how I'll treat *my* gun, which is accurate and has a tight lockup I don't want to lose.
What else...any lead +P round should be checked for "pulling" in any lightweight gun of 15oz or less. My Charter is 17oz and works fine with Remmie/Win 158+Ps. But lead is slick - once you get into Scandiums of 13oz or less, "pulling" becomes more likely and is probably certain in the S&W 10.5oz 38Snub. Speer says their 135 was designed to resist "pulling" (recoil yanking rounds from their shells) and should be considered over the lead 158+Ps in "superfeatherweights".