1911 FLGR to Std guide advice

[Chrome]

Any reason why I shouldn't change my Custom II to a standard length guide rod and cap? I don't like having to use a tool to take down my guns. Would the recoil spring need to be changed if I did change it? What make standard rod should I go with, Colt, SA, Fusion? I'd love to keep it a Kimber part, but I can't find a listing for a standard guide rod on their website.

Later,
Chrome...

 

[Old Fuff]

I can't keep up with Kimber's catchy names, but if you have a model with a 5 inch barrel you can change to a Colt Government Model recoil spring guide and plug. Unless it's getting old your present spring wiil work fine. I believe that kinber's next shortest barrel is 4 inches, and without a barrel bushing. If so you'll have to stay with the present setup.

 

[hanno]

No reason not to do it, I doubt you will notice any difference (except easier takedown) after you do. I replaced the FLGR and plug in both my Kimber and Dan Wesson 1911s with an Ed Brown heavy duty recoil spring guide from Brownells - # 087-882-001, $12.00, and an Ed Brown recoil spring plug from Brownells - # 087-881-001, $6.36. Both work fine.

No need to change the recoil spring.

 

[gunjunky]

The way JMB designed it in the first place is better, IMO.

Go for it.

 

[Zach S]

I believe that kinber's next shortest barrel is 4 inches, and without a barrel bushing. If so you'll have to stay with the present setup.

Nope. Just disassemble the guid rod/spring assembly like you would to replace the recoil spring, and put it back together with a short guide rod. Still have to use the recoils spring plug that came on it though, the GR pokes through it while cycling.

The only real big difference from a 5" gun is that the recoil spring has to come out from the bottom of the slide, but they have to on 4" kimbers anyway. Now, its actually easier to strip than a 5" gun with a bbl bushing.

As a side note, all of the 1911s I got with FLGRs have been replaced with short guide rods, even my 3.5" Para that had a two-piece FLGR that would have to be re-tightened every 50 rounds.

ETA: yes I got bored and polished the flats. Yes, its a carry gun and they got scratched up. No, I dont plan on polishing any more flats.

 

[jmr40]

If you have to use a special tool to take the gun apart I would change it. My Kimber Custom II is the only 1911 that I have left the FLGR in. I just use the baseplate of a magazine to hold the plug down. On other guns where I had to use a screwdriver or bushing wrench to take it apart I did change .

 

[Drail]

FLGRs are like chrome on a Harley. Just something to spend money on.

 

[mljdeckard]

I have asked extensively, both here and other places, what is the REAL benefit of the FLGR. As far as I can tell, the only SLIGHT benefit is a heavier front end. I have never been able to find anyone whose spring has 'bound up' because it wasn't around a guide rod. That's pure fiction as far as I have been able to find.

I replaced the one in my Custom II for about $25 for an Ed Brown spring, rod, and plug. I suppose one COULD go with a Wolff spring, but I'm certainly not picky enough to tell the difference by feel. I frequently switch back and forth to a .22 kit, and I got tired of searching my dad's Pathfinder for the FLGR plug after losing my grip on it, having used the lip on the end of a magazine to push it in and slipped.

 

[Zach S]

If the pistol is being used as a host for a .22 kit pretty often, the FLGR makes sense.

You dont have to take the plug out to switch slides. Just pull the slide stop out and slide the upper off as a complete assembly.

The FLGR makes the recoil spring captive rather than having the guide rod and spring fly to who knows where, like if you pulled the slide off of a pistol with a short guide rod.

Of course, if you have a dedicated frame for your rimfire upper (which I do), the FLGR is useless IMO.

 

[JDGray]

I removed the outside portion of my 2 piece FLGR, and simply installed a GI plug. Gun and I, cant tell the difference

 

[Walkalong]

Yep.
No reason you can't cut off the working part of the two piece rod to the right length, round it off and polish it up. Then just buy a standard plug.

I have a Colt that came with a two piece rod. It is always getting loose where it screws together. I just may end up solving it that way.

 

[possum]

i like the original design as it makes dissassembly easier but with that said, the flgr does give it a look that is quite nice, but in my 1911, i have the standard.

 

[hank327]

About 10 years ago when I bought my Lightweight Commander it had a full length guide rod. I bought a standard length guide rod and plug and installed them before I left the shop. Works flawlessly and I don't need a tool to disassemble the pistol.

 

[schadenfreude]

I think I ordered the short rod and spring the day after I bought my Springfield loaded.

The only thing that keeps me from being able to completely tear it down with no tools are the grips. The right side grip covers a piece of the right safety so I have to remove the grips. I heard that if I get slotted grip screws instead of the torx ones then I can use a part of the pistol to take them out.......... any idea which part?

 

[robctwo]

I just received a Cylinder & Slide full length guide rod assembly for my SA loaded. I did not like the two piece rod with allen wrench required. Mine came loose all the time. I decided to stay with the full length and the C&S went right in and cost $30 with shipping. I had a reason to order some new springs and such since it would reduce the cost of shipping on each item. I'll be shooting in the next few days and will report any problems.

 

[Zach S]

I heard that if I get slotted grip screws instead of the torx ones then I can use a part of the pistol to take them out.......... any idea which part?

At the bottom of the sear spring there's a small flange that rides in a notch in the frame - that small flange is what you can use. Doesnt fit very well, but it will work in a pinch.

Theres also a small, thin flange at the top of the sear spring that you can use to get the mag button out with (if its a slotted screw, and not an allen screw).

All you really need to detail strip it is a pen or pencil to get the firing pin out with, and you can use the firing pin as a punch to remove the mainspring housing pin. After that everything is pretty easy.

JMB was a genius.

 

[robctwo]

Went shooting this afternoon. The new C&S flgr worked great.



No tools required. Drop in fit. Can't work loose.

 

[XDKingslayer]

What makes you think you need tools to take apart a 1911 with a FLGR? I seem to have no trouble taking apart a Taurus 1911.

 

[Black Majik]

What makes you think you need tools to take apart a 1911 with a FLGR? I seem to have no trouble taking apart a Taurus 1911.

Some FLGRs such as Springfield Armory's version are 2 pc guide rods, requring an allen wrench to disassemble.

The solid 1 pc guide rod can be disassembled without any tools.

 

[Chrome]

I can push a standard plug down with my thumb and turn the barrel bushing. With the FLGR, I can't push it down far enough and have to use the bushing wrench. I'm not going to use a magazine to push it down as I don't want to scratch the finish on the gun if I slip.

Later,
Chrome...

 

[rcmodel]

a pen or pencil to get the firing pin out

That's what the hammer strut is also good for.

rcmodel

 

[Walkalong]

On my Colt with the FLGR, it is short enough to still push in in the plug and rotate the barrel bushing to take down the pistol. I do not know if others are this way. The one two piece a FLGR Springfield I had would not, was always loosening up, and was just a general PITA. The one on my Colt is easy enough, but not as easy as pulling the whole top half off first with a regular GI set up and then taking apart the loose parts. (Just watch the spring when you do it this way.. )