1911 Guide Rod

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DC Plumber

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Hey folks,

My Sig 1911 XO has a small interior diameter and thus a small diameter guide rod. I bought a Wolff spring and found out that my Sig uses a flat wire spring.

If I buy a Wilson guide rod that states, "brings your 1911 back to orginal", will it work on my Sig 1911 and the Wolff spring that I bought?

Thanks in advance.
 
Yes - I have made that mod to my Sigs. A standard Wilson Bulletproof GI guide rod and standard spring will work just fine.
 
Better yet.
Make a real 1911 out of it!

Don't buy a guide rod.

Buy a standard 1911 recoil spring guide and recoil spring plug.

You don't need no Stink'n guide rod!

rc
 
Thanks guys,

Yes, that is the guide rod I'm talking about. Never noticed the dimple on the plug before. I imagine it helps hold the spring and plug together, but why is that important?
 
Never noticed the dimple on the plug before. I imagine it helps hold the spring and plug together, but why is that important?
So when you rotate the bushing to take the plug out as the first step of field-stripping the pistol, the plug doesn't go sprooooiiinging across the room, never to be found again....

That JMB dood was a right clever lad. :)

Oh, and rcmodel was confused because we were calling it a guide ROD as opposed to its mo' proper name (guide). Guide rod implies an aftermarket full-length rod (FLGR) that is sometimes used to make the gun seem swoopier.
 
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One more question guys:

My guide rod (not a FLG) has a taper where it meets the barrel link. I notice that the image on the Brownell web site does not have the taper for the guide rod for 5" 1911s, but it does for the commander 1911s. I have a 5" 1911. I can see that the taper is necessary to fit properly, or it seems that way. Can anyone tell me different?

Thank you.
 
My guide rod (not a FLG) has a taper where it meets the barrel link. I notice that the image on the Brownell web site does not have the taper for the guide rod for 5" 1911s, but it does for the commander 1911s. I have a 5" 1911. I can see that the taper is necessary to fit properly, or it seems that way. Can anyone tell me different?

The guide flange on the Commander is positioned much closer to the link and flange and avoids contact between the link when the link over-centers. Notice that the lower lug on the Commander barrel is dead vertical at the front instead of having the "ramp" present on the 5-inch barrel. The angled cut on the flange is unnecessary when everything is to spec, and I suspect that the cut was added in order to avoid any tolerance stacking issues.
 
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