1911 hammer bite, get new hammer?

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Halv

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So I've been dealing with hammer bite for awhile now and tried to get a new grip safety, but it didn't fit right. I have an older firearm, made in 1916. I think I remember hearing something that it might have a different angle in the grip safety. So I was wondering if anyone knew of a hammer I could put in there that is shorter and would prevent hammer bite.

Thanks,
Halv

p.s. Im trying to get pictures but am having trouble with Photobucket right now.
 
All you have to do is learn not to put the web of your hand right up against whatever beaver tail you have on the pistol. Everyone wants to cinch their hand right up tight. Ain't necessary. In fact just moving your hand down a quarter inch will get you more leverage and end the bite. Works for a High Power too.

If you really can't adjust, get a new beavertail.
 
If you have a 1911 made in 1916 it is most likely a high value collector's item. Do not modify anything that can't be changed back. You will turn a $2000+ gun into a $500 shooter real quick.

In 1924 the 1911 was modified in several ways and became the 1911-A1. Most people simply refer to these newer guns as 1911s, because there are relitively few TRUE 1911s around anymore.

In any event a grip safety is a fitted part that needs to be hand fit to the gun by a gunsmith.
 
I know how the whole collectors value thing works, thats how I ended up with this gun! The previous owner swapped out what appears to be everything original. I have a nice 3 dot sight, a worthless group-gripper, an a1 style mainspring housing, a short trigger. And its been re blued which takes away a lot of value as well. I got it for about 600.

I really don't want to lower my grip though, I believe the higher the grip the better. Also its not comfortable for me to hold it any other way, its just where my hands want to go.

So you don't think I could solve this problem with a new hammer of a different style?

now it wont resize, so I'll just send links
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/Halvorson42/IMAG0238.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i283/Halvorson42/IMAG0230.jpg
 
OK, a different grip safety and/or hammer should solve the issue. However a gunsmith will be needed to do the work, as these are not drop in parts.
I had the same issue with a Browning High-Power and swapping the hammer solved the issue.
 
A new hammer might do the trick -- but a beavertail safety is a more satisfactory solution. You have to reshape the tang for the beavertail, which is usually a gunsmith job, and a new hammer to clear the beavertail is usually required. You will want a beavertail with a "speed bump" to insure the grip safety is properly disengaged when using a 2-handed hold.
 
Don't ruin a classic old pistol Just learn to hold lower I shoot my old 1911's 1941 and 1951 with out changing hammer or beaver tail I just hold way it was designed to be held. They didn't choke the pistol to death, shoot 2 handed, or ride the safety in old days. They held it lower and fired . Amazing thing BG ended up just as dead. or in hospital That way also.
 
Your pistol, your choice. Harrison makes a slightly bobbed spur hammer that requires no further modification. No guarantees everything will fit properly though.

If you don't love it for what it is, perhaps a trade would be more beneficial to both parties.
 
All you have to do is learn not to put the web of your hand right up against whatever beaver tail you have on the pistol.
Click to expand...
Not everyone has a hand that works that way.
I know I sure don't, and I have been shooting 1911's for about 55 years now!

And not everyone wants to give up a proper shooting grip to save some skin.


A Commander style ring hammer will stop the bite with your present grip safety.
And you would have to use one anyway if you want to put a beaver-tail on it.

rc
 
It's silly to expect the OP to hold lower. It's contrary to the laws of physics that holding the gun lower increases shooter leverage when the exact opposite is true.

Most Commander hammers won't work with stock grip safeties, unless a big divot is cut out if the safety.

The easy fix is to remove 1/8th" or so from the hammer spur. The hammer can't pinch what it's too short to reach.
 
Thanks for all the advice, I think I'm going to talk to my local gunsmith about fitting a new hammer and possibly beaver tail on it. Some people are still commenting on collectors value, they must have missed my post about how the previous owner already destroyed any collector value left in it. slide and frame are most likely the only original parts anyway.
 
Speaking from personal experience, you don't need a beavertail to fix the problem. You don't even need a new hammer. You just need the hammerer "bobbed" (shortened) and maybe some material removed from the underside. Reducing the weight of the hammer isn't a problem; if anything, it's desirable - all modern hammers are lighter than the GI style hammer. You can also have the edges rounded on the GI grip safety to make it more comfortable too.
 
As a side note, a beavertail is probably "better" in theory since it should make a higher grip on the gun more comfortable than the GI grip safety for most people, but if you don't have a good 'smith install it and blend it in it will look like crap, and you can't undo it since they have to remove metal from the frame to fit it properly. Also, most gunsmiths are in fact crap.

Something to think about.
 
I would personally want to keep the gun as "original" as possible, just "because," not to preserve any remnant of the apparently nonexistent collector value.

With that in mind, I wouldn't grind on the frame to fit a beavertail. But I don't want hammer bite, either, so I'd shorten, polish and reblue the hammer spur, as I stated in Post #10
 
Forgive my 1911 noob-ness, but isn't eliminating hammer-bite the point of extended beavertails? Why not just put one of these in? You wouldn't even have to mess with the hammer?

0%20%20WC429hiridebeavertail.jpg
 
Forgive my 1911 noob-ness, but isn't eliminating hammer-bite the point of extended beavertails? Why not just put one of these in? You wouldn't even have to mess with the hammer?
Click to expand...

I actually own the same universal beavertail safety you show on the left. It is a GREAT option if you do not want to screw up a classic 1911. It does have large gaps, but way better than grinding on a unmolested frame. You DO need a Commander style hammer. If you get a new sear as well, any of the tuning to the sear and hammer can be done to the set.. leaving the originals untouched.

Normally, I've not found that it's hammer bite, it's where the sharp edge of the original Grip safety abrades the web of your thumb.
 
Almostfinal.jpg

If you look closely at the beavertail, IT does have some large gaps. It does reduce / eliminate where the stock grip safety would chafe the web on my thumb. If I had a classic older colt I didn't want to molest, but didn't like shooting because of the "bite", I'd put one of these on. To answer your question, yes I did.. but I later went to a fitted beaver tail since it's ONLY a Springer and grinding on the frame was not a big deal.
The new hammer is required for the beaver tail. To repeat myself, also buy a new sear and have those new parts fitted to each other, leaving the OEM parts untouched.

Do not notice the barrel bushing compensator.. I think it was $20 and probably worth $1.. but I was making an order and threw it in.. don't waste your $20 (oh crap I pointed it out) ;)
 
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