I have lots of 223 brass that I plan to reload. Are all brands basically the same or are there some that you prefer not to reload? I’ve read about staked or crimped primers. How do you identify them are what problems do they cause? Are there other things to watch out for?
223 Brass Questions
- Thread starter Cokeman
- Start date
JEBruns
Member
I sort my .223 brass, although a buddy says it's not needed. I usually load my LC brass, as it's what I have the most of. I've not read of any particular brand to stay away from, at least in the common brands.
Search around for pictures of crimped brass. It's usually a thin ring around the primer pocket, but can be staked too. If not swaged out, it will give you a lot of issues in the priming step.
Crimped brass is the reason I moved up from my Dillon 650 to a Dillon RL1100. The 1100 has a built in swaging station.
Search around for pictures of crimped brass. It's usually a thin ring around the primer pocket, but can be staked too. If not swaged out, it will give you a lot of issues in the priming step.
Crimped brass is the reason I moved up from my Dillon 650 to a Dillon RL1100. The 1100 has a built in swaging station.
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AJC1
Member
I sort brass and use military like lake city in the mini 14 and commercial in the bolt. Both just seem happier that way.... military has crimped primers, run a rcbs military crimp remover on everything and life is good.
You’ll have to get good at removing primer crimps. Pretty much all .223/5.56 brass will have it. The Dillon swager is popular but expensive. The rcbs military crimp remover chucked in a drill works well for me.
Weigh the different brands you have. You’ll find most of the American brass weighs around 92g while a lot of the imported stuff is 100g or more. I would at least separate them to reduce your charge 1/2 grain or so compensate for the reduced capacity. That’s what I do.
Weigh the different brands you have. You’ll find most of the American brass weighs around 92g while a lot of the imported stuff is 100g or more. I would at least separate them to reduce your charge 1/2 grain or so compensate for the reduced capacity. That’s what I do.
FROGO207
Member
As stated above weigh at least a fair sample of each headstamp of brass after decapping and before trimming necks or primer pockets. Outside dimensions are the same so more weight means less internal volume. So more pressure for same charge. 223/5.56 are usually close enough that anything below max load is safe in all of them if you use the heaviest to develop your load. That is how I load my blasting non critical ammo. With 308/7.62 you will usually have to develop loads for heavy and light brass (I did). Then swage or ream the primer pockets and trim to length as needed. I found that crimping the necks on my bottle necked rifle ammo reduced accuracy for me so I don't unless it is for a tube fed magazine (needed there). You should try both crimped and not so you can determine what best works for your ammo though.
243winxb
Member
https://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/223rem/Brass that is heavier in weight will need less powder. Old info-
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All brands are not the same.
I prefer Lake City for consistencies sake, even though I do not year sort. Anything I load that I want it to be reasonably consistent, I load on LC.
I use commercial brass for my blaster ammo for ARs. My loads are pretty middle of the road, and if they hold 1 1/2" on paper, Im happy enough.
This is the only sorting I do, LC vs everything else.
You may find you have alot of Federal (or some other brand) brass and you may want to segregate it out for loads you expect accuracy from, and then use the rest for blaster ammo. Separation is needed if some level of more than accidental accuracy is expected.
Crimped and staked primers can be removed by cutting or swaging. I have done both, but I prefer to use the RCBS cutter method. Hornady cutter works too, but the RCBS is dummy proof for dummies like me. Your mileage may vary.
Edit: I do run the RCBS crimp cutter on EVERY case. Alot of commercial stuff is crimped today. Just makes it all consistent.
Nothing really else to watch out for.
lightman
Member
I have not had any issues with any of them except for off center flash holes. Just buy a universal depriming die and some extra pins for it. The Lee die works well. Pay attention when you both deprime and prime them for any that feel loose. Dealing with the primer crimp is something you will have to do. Not only NATO brass is crimped but I have found crimps in FC, RP, Norma and Winchester brass.
bihj
Member
This plus I stay away from crimped primers. There is nothing wrong with it, I just don't want to deal with them, even though I would only have to do it once.
BIZERKO666
Member
I'm a little O.C.D. and tend to separate my .223 (or any rifle/bottle neck) brass by head stamp. I even separate L.C. by year. Crimped primer pockets are a P.I.T.A. but a necessary evil. I'll prep batches of maybe 100 or so a night, get to around 3 to 5 hundred and still come across a few that I could have done better. I have recently purchased a go/no-go gauge that has helped find a problem before I start before I start priming. it's just the nature of the beast...take your time, don't rush, be methodical in your process and everything will fall into place. Case prep and reloading should never be a race. As others have mentioned, you'll find some brands need a little more attention. Some brass blows primer pockets out quicker, some stretch more than others, some need annealing sooner.
MarshallDodge
Member
For AR loads, loaded with 55 FMJ bullets, they all go in the same pile. They are loaded with a mild to medium powder charge to account for the variance in case volume.
If I want a little more accuracy, I sort by headstamp. LC headstamp brass is sturdy but typically a primer crimp needs to be removed. FC cases are on the soft side so you need to be careful how hot you load them. Neck tension seems to be more consistent than LC.
PMC, R-P, and Winchester commercial brass does not have a crimp, and are typically consistent enough for an accurate load.
If I want a little more accuracy, I sort by headstamp. LC headstamp brass is sturdy but typically a primer crimp needs to be removed. FC cases are on the soft side so you need to be careful how hot you load them. Neck tension seems to be more consistent than LC.
PMC, R-P, and Winchester commercial brass does not have a crimp, and are typically consistent enough for an accurate load.
NMexJim
Member
I’m with the Marshall as far as 55 grainers go. There is only so much that we can expect from generally stock ARs.
Most of my brass is Lake City and I load with a little heavier bullet generally a 62 gr V-max. They pattern a little better. I haven’t found a major improvement from sorting by year.
Most of my brass is Lake City and I load with a little heavier bullet generally a 62 gr V-max. They pattern a little better. I haven’t found a major improvement from sorting by year.
For plinking and blasting ammunition, I just load what I have on hand.
Where I want a but more consistency in my reloads, I do sort by headstamp.
I have a 204 Ruger AR-15 with a 26" heavy barrel. I use the same headstamp cases for loads for my prairie dog hunts. Currently, it is WW brass because it is what I could get enough brass to cover the hunt.
I like Lake City brass, R-P brass, and W-W brass. it depends on what I can get in the quantities I need.
I'm not real happy with foreign 223 Rem brass. The cases are too variable and the ammunition is too variable.
Where I want a but more consistency in my reloads, I do sort by headstamp.
I have a 204 Ruger AR-15 with a 26" heavy barrel. I use the same headstamp cases for loads for my prairie dog hunts. Currently, it is WW brass because it is what I could get enough brass to cover the hunt.
I like Lake City brass, R-P brass, and W-W brass. it depends on what I can get in the quantities I need.
I'm not real happy with foreign 223 Rem brass. The cases are too variable and the ammunition is too variable.
2ndtimer
Member
Here is a handy set of tools to help identify which cases need swaging or reaming, as well as which cases have loose primer pockets so you can throw that brass in the recycle bucket along with the split necks.
Small and Large Primer Pocket Swage Gage ® Set
Swage Gage Small Primer Pocket Gauge
ballistictools.com
irishlad
Contributing Member
That's how I do it too. I use 55 gr VMAXs for my LC brass and cheap FMJs for the rest.
Swaging will be your new hobby within a hobby. There is little equipment involved, and a fast learning curve due to online resources. Some ammo types have no need of swaging.
RCBS has released two generations of a tool that is press mounted. (Primer Pocket Swager Tool/ Combo). Mine is the first version, and works fine. Each one takes 10-15 seconds approx.
RCBS has released two generations of a tool that is press mounted. (Primer Pocket Swager Tool/ Combo). Mine is the first version, and works fine. Each one takes 10-15 seconds approx.
HEAVY METAL 1
Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2005
- Messages
- 418
I sort by brand because what is a geat load in one brand is an overpressure situation in another brand of brass in my AR. Accuracy varies by brand hence each brass brand gets its own load for that reason as well. No different than loading for any other rifle except I don't attempt to approach the lands in loading for the AR system.
gifbohane
Member
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2016
- Messages
- 1,181
Can you give me the RCBS part number for the remover? I will try anything to make this process easier.
MarshallDodge
Member
Two versions
Buy Primer Pocket Swager Combo-2 and More | RCBS
Shopping for the Primer Pocket Swager Combo-2 - Learn more about the latest Accessories and other hunting or shooting gear at RCBS.
www.rcbs.com
Buy Primer Pocket Swager - Bench Tool and More | RCBS
Shopping for the Primer Pocket Swager - Bench Tool - Learn more about the latest Primer Pocket and other hunting or shooting gear at RCBS.
www.rcbs.com
I recommend sorting your brass by headstamp before you swage. Otherwise, the variance in case web dimensions will cause differences in swaging.
AJC1
Member
RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center Straight Cone Military Crimp Remover
The RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center helps to make the tedious tasks of chamfering, deburring, primer pocket cleaning, military crimp removal and flash...
www.midwayusa.com
What are A-USA and GFL?
Lake City (LC) is military 5.56 brass and has a thicker case wall than commercial .223 brass. Because of the thicker case walls there is less volume in the case so loads should be reduced.
I separate military (LC) from commercial brass and load them separately. If you mix the brass and use a charge that is safe for both of them the pressure, speed and point of impact between the two will be different reducing accuracy (grouping).
I separate military (LC) from commercial brass and load them separately. If you mix the brass and use a charge that is safe for both of them the pressure, speed and point of impact between the two will be different reducing accuracy (grouping).
