30-06 accuracy help

[Griz44]

I was in East Texas today with some friends and we went to a free range on a guys ranch. A guy there had a Remington 700ADL 30-06 and was having some major issues keeping it on the paper at even 100 yards. He was shooting Partizan ammunition, I have never even heard of it, and it was shooting like junk. He inherited the rifle a few years ago, and even stated that he really had no use for it and did not even like it. I bought it from him on the spot for a song. (and I can't sing at all) I made a quick trip into the local feed store and picked up a couple of boxes of Remington 30-06 150g PSPCL. First box at 100 yds. Not bad at all. Moved out to 200 yards and they started drifting bad. I will now take the empty brass and do some workups for accuracy. You expert marksmen out there, please take a look and tell me what you think would be a great powder and bullet combo for this gun. The shots do not seem to have any particular pattern, so can I chalk this up to factory ammunition and not worry about the gun yet?

 

[ArchAngelCD]

There are so many different things that could be causing what you are describing. I don't think the ammo is causing such wide spreads at only 100 yards since you did try it with some good factory Remington ammo.

The first thing I would check, make sure the scope mount and rings are all tight and the scope isn't moving slightly with every shot.

The next thing I would check, is there a Copper build up in the barrel's rifling? If you have a Copper problem accuracy will really go down hill fast just like when you have a leading problem.

Is the barrel shot out? There's an old trick to easily check the barrel. Stick the bullet end of a fresh 30-06 round into the front of the barrel. If it goes all the way to the brass your barrel might be shot out.

Like I said, there can be any number of reasons for what's happening but I would check simple things before jumping into the harder things.

 

[USSR]

I shoot 190SMK's and 178gr Amax's in my .30-06 boltguns. I use RL22 exclusively with the 190SMK's, and any number of different powders (N160, H4831SC, RL19, etc.) with the 178gr Amax's.

Don

 

[Slamfire]

Hitting a pie pan at 200 yards with Rem core locks is doing pretty good. The Remington 165 grain core locks I had were 2 MOA at best.

Still, I can recommend a load of 165 grain anything with 55.0 grains IMR 4350 any case, any primer.

Very accurate load, will push the bullets just above 2700 fps. If that is too slow, you can work your way up.

 

[plinky]

Heck, 10 rounds in (looks like) 3 inches at 200 yds? There's really nothing wrong with that rifle. Of course it can probably be improved.

There are doubtless many great bullets out there but the most consistant good results I have gotten have been with Hornady flat base spire points, both 150 and 180 grain. I seat them out close to the rifling or as long as possible if I want them to work in the magazine. I use more IMR 4350 than anything because it's versatile and usually gives good accuracy. There are probably better target loads but these ingrediants will usually be under MOA in hunting rifles.

If I were still not satisfied, I'd be looking at the bedding and fore end pressure although your groups don't look like a rifle with bedding problems.

Looks like you scored a good rifle. C'mon, tell us what you paid!

 

[Jerry M]

I have had excellent luck with 150 soft point boat tails Speer bullets. They have shot well in three different rifles, in three different calibers. Also agree with Slamfire1 start with 55.0 grains of IMR 4350 and go from there.

 

[Sunray]

I wouldn't worry about a rifle(even though Remington doesn't make an 'ADL' any more. That's not a big deal either.) that shoots that well at 200 with factory ammo.
"...have never even heard of it..." Privi Partizan is Serbian made ammo. They make a good assortment of decent rifle and handgun ammo that isn't terribly expensive.
Work up a load using 165 grain hunting bullets or 168 or 175 grain match bullets(if you want a match load), using IMR4064, IMR4895 or Varget. The IMR4064 gives more consistent accuracy than IMR4895 and the .30-06 loves 165 grain bullets. You'll have a load that will kill any game you care to hunt.
Make sure all the screws are tight and do a trigger job too.

 

[Griz44]

C'mon, tell us what you paid!

$100.00 and a growler of home brew.
The scope is a Bushnell Bushmaster 3 X 12 X 50mm. It needs new elastic for the caps and some lens cleaner, but is very clear through the optics.

I have been working on it most of the evening. The bore was clogged with junk. Did not look like copper or lead fouling. I made dozens of passes with Shooter's Choice solvent, then with Butch's bore cleaner with a short wait in between and the crud just kept coming out. I made a few passes with a nylon bore brush to help break it up some. I finally got it clean, and it looks pretty good. As earlier suggested, I took a long wood dowel and a .308 bullet and pushed (tapped it) from the chamber end out to the muzzle. It was snug, and left rifling marks on the bullet. I have never done that before, and from what I think I observed, the bore seems to be good. It is now shiny bright and smooth with very distinct rifling. I have no way to measure it, but it looks good! Even though the scope seemed tight, I found a missing screw in the rear scope base mount. That has been replaced and all the mount screws properly installed and tightened now. There are two screw holes where the rear iron sight used to be, and those need plugs in them, which I do not have. I will try and find some next week. I guess I am used to having groups from a bench (lead sled) a lot closer, like I get with my .270. The primary use for this gun is deer hunting, and if I am lucky enough this year, Elk hunting in Colorado. Wikipedia indicates that the 30-06 was original designed to be an 1100 yard sniper gun. Someone get me a recipe for that round! Thanks to everyone here for the suggestions and hints as to what was going on. Turns out, everyone was correct. This gun really only had one negative issue, and that was the previous owner. Everything was fixable! I will be posting the return to the range photos in a few days, hopefully with some decent groups. Thanks to a great bunch here at THR!

 

[Sunray]

"...Wikipedia indicates that the 30-06 was original designed to be an 1100 yard sniper gun..." Whoever posted that on there is confused. Wikipedia isn't a really good source for info. The .30-06 was designed for the 1903 Springfield service rifle. Had nothing to do with snipers.
"...a growler of home brew..." How big is that? Just curious.
"...no way to measure it..." Got a micrometer? A Vernier calipre will do. Mind you, you'd rarely need to slug the bore of a commercial hunting rifle. The ADL was made between 1964 and 2004. It's .308".
"...made dozens of passes..." It's done now, but if you fall into another really dirty rifle, tap a rubber cork into the muzzle, just enough to hold it there. Then fill the barrel with solvent and leave it sit for a few hours, then clean as per normal. Gives the solvent time to work.
I'd lose that enormous scope too. 2.5X to 8X x 40 is plenty.

 

[Griz44]

It is a little more that 2 liters.

 

[rg1]

My nephew and I both have the 30-06 ADL and they both shoot Hornadys 150 grain Spire Point flat based bullet inside an inch at 100. Both use IMR 4350 in RP cases and RP 9 1/2 primers. Loads are near maximum using Hornadys data. For elk I'd try Hornadys 180gr SP flat based bullet.
Your thorough cleaning may make a big improvement. Next time at the range check your scope for parallex. Bag your rifle so that the crosshair is aligned with the bullseye of the target. Without touching the rifle move your eye side to side and up and down the eyepiece and see if the crosshair is moving around on the target as you move your eye. You'll often find a scope with parallex problems and if your eye isn't centered exactly the same every shot your groups will open up considerably.

 

[ants]

Hello, Griz. That looks like a recent model ADL with the nearly-free-float synthetic stock and the funny flattened bolt knob with checkering on top and bottom. I hate the knob, but I got used to it.

The junk in the barrel was probably the problem. The ADL is a surprisingly good foundation for accuracy because the lack of a hinged base plate allows the stock to be stiffer. Speaking of stock, drop it off the receiver and inspect everything. Make sure the forend doesn't contact the barrel. Do not overtorque the screws on that ADL stock and it simulates a free float condition. It's not a bad stock, unless it doesn't fit you.

Mine does best with 180 grain bullets (you like those Barnes TSX, don't you) and either 4350 or 4895 powder. Cheaper than Barnes is Hornady Interbond BT without the cannelure, shoots very similar to the TSX boattail and cheaper for working up loads. In both cases, near max is the most accurate (although near max is uncomfortable, but that stock seems to have an R3 butt pad already). A 180 grain will knock down any deer or elk we can throw at you, same load for all game.

By the way, you bought that rifle for $100 and some beer? I hate you. No offense personally, but I hate you more.

 

[NuJudge]

I can not get your pictures to load, but from the comments, it is a bolt gun.

There are some loads that shoot well in virtually any firearm of the caliber that will shoot at all. I find that if a boltgun in .30-'06 will shoot at all, a 180gr bullet from any of the major US manufacturers on top of 56gr of IMR 4350, with any US primer, shoots very well.

CDD

 

[Griz44]

Thanks Ants,
Looks like I am going to take it down even further today. I have never tried working a trigger on a rifle, but I work on pistols, so it is just parts.. Any suggestions on the pitfalls I might need to avoid? Yes, I will do my research first, I don't walk into anything blind anymore. The barrel seems to be fine in it's mount. On the outside, the rifle was taken very good care of. And yes, it is an uncomfortable bolt knob, but I can live with it as well. I am going to look for a little thicker pad, I am a pretty big guy, 6'5 and 280, and have long arms, so another inch or so would be good. Recoil is not an issue, nothing like a good kick in the shoulder to get the blood pumping. Long shots are the norm on the Texas prairie, so accuracy is important. I have a very strict large game hunting policy I have put on myself, if the shot isn't 99.9% a sure thing, don't take it. I like the Barnes bullets, but they are expensive. Since this will be pretty much dedicated to hunting, that is probably the way to go, there will be some practice rounds each season, but won't be used as frequently as the .270. I have some Varget here, but it seems the overwelming choice for reloaders here is 4350. Looks like my powder selection is about to expand. BTW, we were in camp for the night, the BBQ, beer and conversion came first, and that probably helped the price... . I also got to shoot a 50 BMG, now that's a gun! I tried to buy it for a C note too, but all he did was laugh at me....

 

[neal7250]

I load the 30-06 using a 150 grain Remington Core Lock. I load 62 grains of H-414 and can consistantly place 3 carefull aimed rounds inside a quarter at 100 yards. I would work up to that load, and look for the usual.

I have found that the H-414 works best for me using Dillon equipment.
I load 30-06, 270, 7mm Mag, & 300 Win Mag with that powder, with great results

 

[Grumulkin]

I use Varget in my 30/06 and it shoots very well with Hornady, Nosler and Barnes 165 & 168 gr. bullets.

 

[Doug b]

Griz, Rem. made a run of BDL's & ADL's with a firing pin/spring combo that shook the rifles so hard it was impossible to get them to group,I had one in .300 win. groups looked like a shotgun pattern.A fellow in Colo. makes the best replacement but I can't recall his name.

 

[ants]

Griz, go ahead and disassemble. No secret minefields. You can't wreck anything. The trigger/safety assembly can be cleaned, inspected & lubricated as a group. Everything is visible. Whole new trigger assembly from a half dozen manufacturers can be dropped in (assuming you want to double or triple your $100 investment).

For complete disassembly find reproductions of the factory Field Service Manual on ebay or gunbroker for less than $10.

Bolt disassembly has one hitch: extractors are riveted and require a new rivet for reassembly. The shroud at the rear of the bolt carries the firing pin and spring, and may be the part Doug b is talking about. Callahan, Tubb and others make replacements, but I hadn't previously heard Doug's warning about some assemblies being troublesome. It's good to know in case you have any trouble, but leave it alone if the gun shoots well. The shroud/FP assembly must be pulled back from the bolt and a coin or washer inserted to hold it, then unscrewed from the bolt. Kinda pain in the butt if you ask me.

The bolt release is the little lever inside the trigger guard just in front of the trigger. Trigger guard is probably plastic, steel replacements are available if you really want one. With a new magazine box, spring, hinged floor plate, screw, and new stock you can change the ADL to a BDL, or you can buy a detachable magazine kit.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

So even though it wasn't Copper or Lead the bore was fouled? I'm glad you decided to check that like I mentioned in my above post. I hope it makes a difference but I don't know how it can't since you said you removed a lot of fouling.

I also use 4350 when reloading for the 30-06 and I usually load a 165gr or 168gr bullet. IMO the 30-06 just loves that weight bullet.

I can't wait for your range report. I'm sure it will be a good report since you took care of all the things that were wrong with the rifle. Way to go!!!