I bought my .30/30 dies about 35yrs ago, so they're RCBS. (two die set)
If I was buying a new set of dies I'd get the Lee Deluxe set. For the .30/30, it will have the standard full-length sizing die, and the "factory crimp" die, along with the seating/standard crimp die, and a shell holder.
I load my .30/30's for my Marlin/Glenfield by always full lenght sizing. However, if the brass has been previously fired in your rifle, you don't want to run them all the way into the die like you would your pistol cases. You want the shoulder of the case to just "kiss" the inside of the die to where you get slight burnishing of the shoulder, but not to push it back to where total full lenght sizing would. The "partial" full length sizing will significantly lengthen the life expectancy of your brass, but still give you the positive chambering of a "full length sized" case. And maximize accuracy as well.
Secondly, get the Lee case trimmer set. (case holder and length gauge (pilot) along with the spinner. This can be used in conjunction with a hand drill (I prefer a cordless recharable...) and a case neck chamfer tool (I recommend either the RCBS or Forster. They're much-much better than the Lee, but the Lee is "serviceable"....
Seat the bullets in one step, then crimp with the Lee FCD in the final step. This die is less lenght dependant as it uses the die contact with the shell holder to "activate" it. Just a "tad" of crimp is all thats neccessary. All of the bullets suitable for the .30/30 Marlin will have cannulures in the right place so I suggest you use them......bullets and cannulure and a modest crimp. Exact amount isn't critical as long as it isn't too much. Just about like what you'd use on a .38spl or .357mag pistol case/bullet.
If you've been using carbide pistol dies, you'll also have to lubricate the cases. I suggest the RCBS case lube pad, and a bottle of STP oil treatment from the dept. store auto parts section. You'll only need to rub in about 1/2 teaspoon onto the pad and that'll last about a year before you need more. The RCBS lube is about the same thing, but cost about $5 for 1/4 the amount thats in the STP bottle....... It takes only a very, very slight amount of lube on the cases, and can easily be wiped off with a shop rag. You may later want to try some Imperial die wax. Extreamly good but best applied by wiping on with you fingers. Slower than rubbing 20-40 cases at a time on the pad......
The Remington 150 and 170gr Cor-Lokts are the Gold-standard for the .30/30wcf. They are accurate, and are designed for the velocity levels of the .30/30. I've found the Hornady's, Speers and Sierra's to be a bit "hard" and not expand well. A single exception is the Sierra 125gr HP. It's an awsome accurate and controled expansion bullet for game under 300lbs and under 150yds for the .30/30....
With a Remington M788 boltaction in .30/30, I've gotten 1-hole groups with bullets such as the 130gr Speer HP, and the Sierra and Nosler B.T's in 125gr, but they aren't suitable for the tubular fed Marlin.
I prefer the 170gr Remington CorLokt over 34.0gr of RL15. It gets 2,300fps and is MOA from my Marlin/Glenfield M30. It expands much better than any other 170's I've used. The 150 CorLokt is a second favorite at 35.5gr of RL15 for 2,370fps and MOA. I use 36.0g of RL15 under the 125 Sierra HP, and 37.0g with the Speer 130fp. I don't like this latter bullet as it's too hard for deer from the .30/30. I've lost several deer hit in the rib-cage with this bullet. It even didn't expand all that much on an 8pt I hit through the spine with it, but shot placement saved the day.......!
Welcome to the second century of the .30wcf (aka .30/30)...
