jpitt16

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Joined
Jun 21, 2010
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14
Hi all, I am having an issue with 308 Win headspace and I’d love to hear what you think might be the problem.

Background: I have a Dillon650 that I’ve been using over a decade for various calibers and thousands of reloads later (mostly once fired mil brass), I’m having an issue with 308 which I recently started loading.

The first 100 rounds (new commercial brass, not 7.62) chambered and fired perfectly.

Now after reloading the once fired brass, the rounds fail to chamber in 308 lever action, keeping the gun slightly out of battery. They will chamber and cycle correctly in an AR-10, though I’m assuming the buffer/spring slamming them home is the only reason they seat in the chamber. When trying to eject a live cartridge in the AR10, it requires force and I believe I have a headspace issue (and that it’s dangerous as the weapon could be slightly out of battery).

Before this happened, each reloaded round was inspected, placed in a case gauge and “feel tested” on the base/primer to ensure no obvious fit issues, though they could be slightly out of spec (+0.002) and I would not have felt it.

After I tried firing the rounds and had the chambering issue, I was scratching my head wondering what could have prevented the cartridges from chambering properly; so I went back to the basics. In troubleshooting the headspace issue:

· I measured the now twice fired cases from the AR10 – each case was between 2.010 and 2.013 and “in spec” (beneath 2.015 max length and above the 2.005 trim length).

· I double checked the live reloaded rounds crimp position on the bullets to make sure I did not have a shallow seating issue. Every one was crimped at perfectly half of the bullet crimp “groove”.

· I then checked the sizing die adjustment. It was seated perfectly at the shell plate, but just to be sure, I loosened the lock nut, tightened it down and ran another round… same issue in the lever action; it was slightly out of battery.

I am no professional, but I am super meticulous. If there is anything that I could be doing wrong before I start to blame the equipment, I’d love to know what it is. I’ve exhausted everything I know to check, and at this point I can only figure there must be an abnormality in the sizing die? It sounds stupid, but is that a possibility? For clarity, I also removed the sizing die, inspected the inside (also considered tumbling it), but it was sparkling clean.

Note: Resizing the cases took more force than I’ve ever had to use. It made audible noises and I had used Hornady one shot lube (and was sure to get inside the case neck and apply generously). I was even considering mixing a lanoline case lube, but given the amount of friction, I doubt the difference between lanoline and Hornady one1 shot would make that tremendous of a difference.

The sizing die was part of the 3 die Dillon set.

Thoughts? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Any chance you have a 40 or 10mm you can slip over the neck to see where your shoulder is? The amount of force you describe sounds excessive. Can you try a different lube and see if it improves? A new die may require a little more lube to season. I don't Dillon but I'm curious if the excessive force required is flexing your shell plate preventing enough sizing.
 
Can you elaborate on how you’re determining how much you’ve bumped the shoulder back when resizing?

ETA: I’ve re read your post and it seems you’re using a case gauge but I’m still not clear on how you’re using it to ensure you’ve properly resided you brass…

each reloaded round was inspected, placed in a case gauge and “feel tested” on the base/primer to ensure no obvious fit issues, though they could be slightly out of spec (+0.002) and I would not have felt it.

What does “feel tested on the base/primer” mean to you?

I think it’s very unlikely that there’s anything wrong with your Dillion dies
 
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Is the lever action a Savage 99? I had one for a while and it would not chamber anything that had been fired in another rifle unless I resized with the above mentioned RCBS Small Base sizing die.
 
Can you elaborate on how you’re determining how much you’ve bumped the shoulder back when resizing?

ETA: I’ve re read your post and it seems you’re using a case gauge but I’m still not clear on how you’re using it to ensure you’ve properly resided you brass…



What does “feel tested on the base/primer” mean to you?

I think it’s very unlikely that there’s anything wrong with your Dillion dies
The dillion set of 308 dies I had would push the shoulder back way further than my rcbs, Lee or forester. I don't know if that was a feature of being designed for a progressive press but I could leave a sizable gap on a single station press.
 
Any chance you have a 40 or 10mm you can slip over the neck to see where your shoulder is? The amount of force you describe sounds excessive. Can you try a different lube and see if it improves? A new die may require a little more lube to season. I don't Dillon but I'm curious if the excessive force required is flexing your shell plate preventing enough sizing.
I do not have a 40 or 10MM. I am going to mix the lanoline case lube and see if it works for sure
 
Is the lever action a Savage 99? I had one for a while and it would not chamber anything that had been fired in another rifle unless I resized with the above mentioned RCBS Small Base sizing die.
nope, it's not a Savage. I am taking the RCBS small base sizing die recommendation, thank you!
 
The dillion set of 308 dies I had would push the shoulder back way further than my rcbs, Lee or forester. I don't know if that was a feature of being designed for a progressive press but I could leave a sizable gap on a single station press.
Thank you for explaining the difference between the dies, I do not have any others so this is super helpful to know!
 
A few things...

Military brass can work harden pretty quickly. It's possible it's springing back after sizing. To cure this, you would have to anneal the necks... it would help... but if it's very hard brass, it may be a moot point. I have some CBC .308 brass that's hard as a rock, for example.

Don't be surprised if the SB die doesn't cure, or completely cure, your problem. One of the issues with lever-actions (... and I was going to ask if it was a Savage 99, too... ;) ) is the final movement of the bolt into battery is one of the worst places for lever 'leverage' in the action cycle. I had a Marlin 336 in .30-30 that was like that... it never seemed like I could get it easily into battery, even though I full-length size all my brass.

Is your die set right? Besides John's comments about the Dillon dies (and I don't have any experience with Dillon anything...) understand that when you are setting the die, the tolerances are going to be different than when you are using the die... with a cartridge case rammed up into the die, and pressure on the shell plate/ram. I ran into this problem sizing .348WCF (lever-action) brass. I SET the die correctly, but under the force of actually sizing that thick .348 brass... there was a fairly sizeable gap between the die and shell holder... enough to give me problems chambering a round fully. Now, after the initial set, I run a case up into the die... and then check that the die is actually touching the shell holder or shell plate.
 
Same exact thing happens to me with .308 on my Dillon 750. After hours and hours of research (i.e. beating some brass with a hammer and throwing them at the nearest dumpster) I have found that the issue is that at the VERY base of the brass case, there is a bulge that dies do NOT size properly. The bulge is just enough for the round to get stuck in my Rem model 700, forcing some creative removal procedures.

I've purchased RCBS short and full length dies, Dillon dies, Lee and Hornady. None of them solve the problem.

When the brass is fully inserted into the sizing die, the very bottom of the case isn't touched, leaving a slight bulge that interferes with ejecting the round (and quite often, the round won't even chamber properly). If I purchase brand new brass, everything works fine. If I reload that same brass after firing from my Rem 700, they remain usable.

If I reload range brass or even once-fired brass from ANY manufacturer, about 30-40% of them are unusable due to the bulge. I've even used a Dillon Case Gauge after sizing, and the bulged brass seems perfectly fine (drops right into the case gauge). I then bought a Sheridan case gauge, and lo-and-behold, all of the bulged brass does NOT fit. AHA says I.

So I now pre-check all brass after sizing. If they don't work in the Sheridan case gauge, I toss them.

Hope this makes sense.
 
Same exact thing happens to me with .308 on my Dillon 750. After hours and hours of research (i.e. beating some brass with a hammer and throwing them at the nearest dumpster) I have found that the issue is that at the VERY base of the brass case, there is a bulge that dies do NOT size properly. The bulge is just enough for the round to get stuck in my Rem model 700, forcing some creative removal procedures.

I've purchased RCBS short and full length dies, Dillon dies, Lee and Hornady. None of them solve the problem.

When the brass is fully inserted into the sizing die, the very bottom of the case isn't touched, leaving a slight bulge that interferes with ejecting the round (and quite often, the round won't even chamber properly). If I purchase brand new brass, everything works fine. If I reload that same brass after firing from my Rem 700, they remain usable.

If I reload range brass or even once-fired brass from ANY manufacturer, about 30-40% of them are unusable due to the bulge. I've even used a Dillon Case Gauge after sizing, and the bulged brass seems perfectly fine (drops right into the case gauge). I then bought a Sheridan case gauge, and lo-and-behold, all of the bulged brass does NOT fit. AHA says I.

So I now pre-check all brass after sizing. If they don't work in the Sheridan case gauge, I toss them.

Hope this makes sense.
Again how does a 45acp bulge buster not fix this.... solutions and options are what people are looking for.
 
Can you elaborate on how you’re determining how much you’ve bumped the shoulder back when resizing?

ETA: I’ve re read your post and it seems you’re using a case gauge but I’m still not clear on how you’re using it to ensure you’ve properly resided you brass…



What does “feel tested on the base/primer” mean to you?

I think it’s very unlikely that there’s anything wrong with your Dillion dies
By feel tested, I mean I placed in a (dillon) case guage and run my finger over the base/primer; not a thorough inspection/micrometer measurement. Based on all the replies, I'm guessing that you're right and these aren't sized enough. That maybe with all the force required, I might be missing the very last thousandth or 2 of the sizing die. I am going to try the RCBS die and Lanoline Lube and see if I can get it working. I might even try running them through the sizing die twice for good measure.

What was driving me nuts was that the resized brass fit the case gauge perfectly, every single time. Now reading ManFromMontana's reply, I guess I'll have to add the Sheridan case gauge to my shopping cart as well :)
 
Same exact thing happens to me with .308 on my Dillon 750. After hours and hours of research (i.e. beating some brass with a hammer and throwing them at the nearest dumpster) I have found that the issue is that at the VERY base of the brass case, there is a bulge that dies do NOT size properly. The bulge is just enough for the round to get stuck in my Rem model 700, forcing some creative removal procedures.

I've purchased RCBS short and full length dies, Dillon dies, Lee and Hornady. None of them solve the problem.

When the brass is fully inserted into the sizing die, the very bottom of the case isn't touched, leaving a slight bulge that interferes with ejecting the round (and quite often, the round won't even chamber properly). If I purchase brand new brass, everything works fine. If I reload that same brass after firing from my Rem 700, they remain usable.

If I reload range brass or even once-fired brass from ANY manufacturer, about 30-40% of them are unusable due to the bulge. I've even used a Dillon Case Gauge after sizing, and the bulged brass seems perfectly fine (drops right into the case gauge). I then bought a Sheridan case gauge, and lo-and-behold, all of the bulged brass does NOT fit. AHA says I.

So I now pre-check all brass after sizing. If they don't work in the Sheridan case gauge, I toss them.

Hope this makes sense.

Makes perfect sense, thanks for taking the time to lay that out. I'm guessing you never got it fixed? if so, what works for you. Also, the fact that the brass fit the case gauge was what was really driving me nuts, so I guess they're not all created equally :) I'm adding the Sheridan case gauge to my shopping cart right now. Thank you for that.
 
Makes perfect sense, thanks for taking the time to lay that out. I'm guessing you never got it fixed? if so, what works for you. Also, the fact that the brass fit the case gauge was what was really driving me nuts, so I guess they're not all created equally :) I'm adding the Sheridan case gauge to my shopping cart right now. Thank you for that.

I never solved the problem. To my knowledge, there is no solution unless there's a sizing die out there somewhere that does the job. The search continues...
 
You might, if you haven't done so, print out the SAAMI specs for your round. Spend some time measuring fired and sized cases with the printout close by. Size a case and insert into your case gauge. It should drop in and out fairly easily. If it's high, check your length. Seat a bullet and again go into the gage. If you are high, seat bullet further.

If you have a set of headspace gauges (Hornady or other) check your shoulder. I normally set my dies for a .002 should bump, but that may not work for a lever gun. A little Magic Marker on the case might show where you're fit is tight.

This almost sounds like a case bulge that happens with a Glock pistol. Is your cartridge fully supported in the chamber or does the feed ramp undermine the case a bit?

I read your process and it looks good. Good luck.
 
By feel tested, I mean I placed in a (dillon) case guage and run my finger over the base/primer; not a thorough inspection/micrometer measurement. Based on all the replies, I'm guessing that you're right and these aren't sized enough. That maybe with all the force required, I might be missing the very last thousandth or 2 of the sizing die. I am going to try the RCBS die and Lanoline Lube and see if I can get it working. I might even try running them through the sizing die twice for good measure.

What was driving me nuts was that the resized brass fit the case gauge perfectly, every single time. Now reading ManFromMontana's reply, I guess I'll have to add the Sheridan case gauge to my shopping cart as well :)

Got ya. Thanks :thumbup:

Try this.

Raise the ram, screw your sizing die down till it touches the shell plate, then lower the ram and screw it in about another 1/4 turn. When you raise the ram again you should feel what people refer to as “cam over”. That ensures you’re getting the most out of the stroke to size the base of the case.

When you’re using the case gauge does the brass stick in gauge or does it fall free when you upend it?

The case shoulder is the next bit. Before you buy any more equipment I would suggest your next purchase be a Hornady headspace comparator. That’s how you can know empirically how far you’re bumping your shoulder back when resizing.

A case gauge will get the job done but I like to have the data.
 
nope, it's not a Savage. I am taking the RCBS small base sizing die recommendation, thank you!

YOU DON'T NEED IT . Size two cases which fit your AR10 ,now slip them into the lever gun DO THEY FIT ALSO ?. If not there is your problem .
If They do fit you need to check OAL ,as throat of chamber could be short and bullet is jamming into the lands preventing battery .
 
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