357/38 reloading questions

[35 Whelen]

"Don't overthink it" always means "don't do it differently than I would".

No, "keep it simple" means just that.

Your average handloader/shooter spends too much time agonizing over tiny details of handloading, when that extra time would be far better spent learning to shoot.

I know this because I have firsthand experience.

Finally learned my lesson about a decade ago.

35W

 

[RealGun]

No, "keep it simple" means just that.

Your average handloader/shooter spends too much time agonizing over tiny details of handloading, when that extra time would be far better spent learning to shoot.

I know this because I have firsthand experience.

Finally learned my lesson about a decade ago.

35W

I wasn't quoting "keep it simple", but agree with your point.

 

[IWAC]

In what size gun is all this being shot? Important context when referring to impressions of what it is like to shoot specific ammo.

By "size" do you mean caliber, or weight of gun? .357 Magnum; Presently, 4" Ruger GP 100 MC, formerly, 4" S&W 586, which was about 6-8 ozs heavier than the 100. Flyweight guns so much in vogue now need not apply! The "lightest" gun I would shoot my choice of ammo in is the S&W 60 3". I'd save the Ruger LCRX and others of similar weight for .22 LR or WMR.

 

[RealGun]

By "size" do you mean caliber, or weight of gun? .357 Magnum; Presently, 4" Ruger GP 100 MC, formerly, 4" S&W 586, which was about 6-8 ozs heavier than the 100. Flyweight guns so much in vogue now need not apply! The "lightest" gun I would shoot my choice of ammo in is the S&W 60 3". I'd save the Ruger LCRX and others of similar weight for .22 LR or WMR.

Frame size, weight, and barrel length, yes/no on full underlug and balance, bore axis, generally the mass of the gun and its effect on recoil impressions.

I had two generations of 3" Model 60s and would not shoot serious ammo in them even on a good day. They embody the very reason for loading Tier I .357 Magnum ammo and why the little guns are typically reported as shooting 38 Special.

 

[IWAC]

Frame size, weight, and barrel length, yes/no on full underlug and balance, bore axis, generally the mass of the gun and its effect on recoil impressions.

I had two generations of 3" Model 60s and would not shoot serious ammo in them even on a good day. They embody the very reason for loading Tier I .357 Magnum ammo and why the little guns are typically reported as shooting 38 Special.

Reloading/ballistic proctology... having little to no relation to the real world of recreational shooters, which are the majority of us.

 

[RealGun]

Reloading/ballistic proctology... having little to no relation to the real world of recreational shooters, which are the majority of us.

Is there a lack of insight into why one enjoys shooting one gun over another? When you describe what it is like to shoot certain ammo, the gun used is very relevant.

 

[Toprudder]

To follow up on small loads, I went back to check my notes. I was trying to get Sport Pistol down to pushing a 125gr plated bullet at ~750fps. Didn't ignite well if the powder wasn't in the back of the case. As an experiment I loaded a dozen with magnum primers and that proved more reliable. For those curious, when the failures occurred, the bullet, while exiting the barrel, sometimes didn't make it 10yds down range. I figured only part of the powder ignited, the rest being pushed down the barrel with the bullet before it could ignite. I of course abandoned that loading.

Interesting about Sport Pistol. I just had some weird results in 45acp that I suspect has to do with poor ignition and position sensitivity.

 

[Jim Watson]

To follow up on small loads, I went back to check my notes. I was trying to get Sport Pistol down to pushing a 125gr plated bullet at ~750fps. Didn't ignite well if the powder wasn't in the back of the case. As an experiment I loaded a dozen with magnum primers and that proved more reliable. For those curious, when the failures occurred, the bullet, while exiting the barrel, sometimes didn't make it 10yds down range. I figured only part of the powder ignited, the rest being pushed down the barrel with the bullet before it could ignite. I of course abandoned that loading.

I once tried a light .38 Special load with W231 and a 125 at 158 OAL. Shooting was erratic depending on powder position, until I got all the powder all the way forward and stuck a bullet. I reseated the rest of the bullets as deep as they would go, case mouth at the leading edge of the bearing surface, and they shot normally.

 

[alfsauve]

Interesting about Sport Pistol. I just had some weird results in 45acp that I suspect has to do with poor ignition and position sensitivity.

To be fair I imagine a lot of powders would do poorly with light loads in large cases. At the time I was interested in shooting Bullseye so I wrote Sport off my list. (I've since decided just to stick with my .45 for the center fire part of the match.)

 

[Walkalong]

To be fair I imagine a lot of powders would do poorly with light loads in large cases

Absolutely they do.

 

[35 Whelen]

To be fair I imagine a lot of powders would do poorly with light loads in large cases. At the time I was interested in shooting Bullseye so I wrote Sport off my list. (I've since decided just to stick with my .45 for the center fire part of the match.)

When I got back into High Power I shot really light cast bullet loads in a 7.5x55, a cartridge with nearly the capacity of a 30-06. And light as in 6.5 grs. of Bullseye lit with a standard large pistol primer. Not only were velocities very consistent, 100 yd. accuracy was just short of amazing.
So, if you're going to load really light loads, use the right powder(s)!

35W

 

[Maynard Shooter]

Why not make it a lot easier and just use one load? You are going to gain 95% of that velocity increase with the barrel length of the rifle not the .5gr of powder.

When hunting that extra velocity can make the difference.