CavalierLeif

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Hi all - I'm working up some rounds for my Rossi R92 16" .357 and I'd like to roll some for hunting whitetail here on the East Coast.

So far, I've been reloading SWCHP 158 gr Hornady Frontier Lead since I already have a stock of them, but I imagine these aren't ideal for hunting. Probably a 158 gr or 180 gr RNFP would be better. But, the R92 has a 1/30" twist rate, which I'm concerned may not stabilize the heavier 180 gr as well.

I've seen cast, powdered cast and plated in 158 gr and 180 gr and I'm open to feedback on which combination of weight and structure would be best for this rifle for a hunting load.

Any thoughts/experienced opinions about a favorite bullet for a .357 magnum deer hunting handload?

Planning on using Win 231 since I have it already, but could put another powder on the look-out list if necessary.


Many thanks
 
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A 158 gr Hornady XTP-FP with a max charge of H110 yields me a tad over 1,700 fps out of my Henry Big Boy carbine. I would think this potent deer medicine out to 100 yards.

With you running swaged Hornady lead (and .357 loads) out of your Rossi, there's a good chance they're being pushed too fast and will cause leading. You might stick with cup and core bullets to make it easier on you until you find what works.
 
I've harvested " hate that word" one doe and one buck with R92 24 inch and 16 inch. 158 gr swcgc, 15.7 296. It worked. They fell over fairly close. Then got a deal on box's of Hdy 140 ftx. Used 15.7 with out shortening the brass. Have shot a lot of them. Went out and filled my other doe tag. Worked fine. Didn't bound off too far. The last one was an eight point with a factory win jacketed flat nose. That worked too. In my experiments the jacketed bullets worked faster than the semi wadcutters. Have a drawer full of sights. Never felt at home with anything like I do with my 06 and its clear scope. Just my gut feeling.
 
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So far, I've been reloading SWCHP 158 gr Hornady Frontier Lead since I already have a stock of them, but I imagine these aren't ideal for hunting.
Actually those are good bullets for hunting. Close range only. The stippling and wax (or whatever it is) Hornady uses seals very well and I have not seen any leading in any of my rifles or handguns. I’m a fan of much heavier and harder bullets because I want a through hole. Easier to follow a big blood trail.

For a 1:30 twist and W231 at the top of its range you should be good to 50yds. Just take your time and pick your shot.

You will be pushing more bullet than a smoke pole and Hawkins rifles take thousands of deer every season.
 
Hi all - I'm working up some rounds for my Rossi R92 16" .357 and I'd like to roll some for hunting whitetail here on the East Coast.

So far, I've been reloading SWCHP 158 gr Hornady Frontier Lead since I already have a stock of them, but I imagine these aren't ideal for hunting. Probably a 158 gr or 180 gr RNFP would be better. But, the R92 has a 1/30" twist rate, which I'm concerned may not stabilize the heavier 180 gr as well.

I've seen cast, powdered cast and plated in 158 gr and 180 gr and I'm open to feedback on which combination of weight and structure would be best for this rifle for a hunting load.

Any thoughts/experienced opinions about a favorite bullet for a .357 magnum deer hunting handload?

Planning on using Win 231 since I have it already, but could put another powder on the look-out list if necessary.


Many thanks
If you were someone I knew I'd say use. 158 xtp or 140 ftx for your first hunting with it. Lead is fine. I cast gobs but won't hunt with SWCGC or my RNFPGC unless I must. Been there done that.
 
Thanks, all. I'm using the 158 gr SWCHP under 4.7 grains of 231 to get an idea for a starting load since I have the bullets on hand (first formula; these are for plinking as I find what works). Seems like the 158 gr XTP is a good one to look at for the woods.

With the slow twist rate, do you believe it's best to avoid 180 gr weight?
 
My neighbor kids took 2 large does with my Henry .357 single shot this year. Load was a max charge of H110 and the Speer 158 SP. These are hard to find lately, but do come around from time to time. It's a very effective and easy to load deer bullet in this caliber. There really isn't any replacement for power here. Will a 158 LSWC under 1000fps kill deer? Sure. Will a 158 at near 1600 be a more effective tool? Probably. H110 is pretty available these days, you should be able to find a can. I would get a couple hundred small rifle primers also. Do not load full on max loads with regular small pistol primers. Your Rossi should do fine with those.

https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/6338 I found the Hornady version in stock at Grafs. I would start here. I prefer SP to HP at rifle velocities. I've never personally killed a deer with mine, the kids use it, but I have shot a lot of targets. The HPs seem to open a little fast for my taste.

Both deer were lung shot, both died within 50 yards. One was quartering towards and the bullet did not exit leaving scant blood trail. The other passed through and left a good trail on a more clear broadside shot.
 
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Have a friend who runs the 140 gr FTX with great success. He’s also cast some bullets that have performed very well. I personally would probably reach for that FTX first off. The performance was very impressive.
 
158 Xtps w/ 18grains of Lil'gun is one of the best deer hunting loads for the carbine. Its a published max load.

W231 is normally considered too fast for 357mag loads. You will not likely find any loading data for it unless its a downloaded cast plinking load similar to a 38spl +p loading.

I have also been succesful using cast 158fp, 180tc, and 125rn for deer in carbines. I prefer Lil'gun for 158 and heavier pills but go with W296 when loading 125grain bullets.

125 2R cast at 2300fps is a hard hitting load but groups are usually not as good as 158 and heavier bullets. Results may differ rifle to rifle.

Regardless of the load used, staying inside of 100yards gives the best results. 80 and under is better still especially on larger deer.
 
But, the R92 has a 1/30" twist rate, which I'm concerned may not stabilize the heavier 180 gr as well.
Out of curiosity, have you verified that your .357 carbine really does have a 1:30 twist? 1:18 or 1:16 is more typical for .357. 1:30 sounds more like a .45Colt twist rate.

Just want to make sure you have verified it yourself on your rifle and not just going by what is written somewhere.
 
Out of curiosity, have you verified that your .357 carbine really does have a 1:30 twist? 1:18 or 1:16 is more typical for .357. 1:30 sounds more like a .45Colt twist rate.

Just want to make sure you have verified it yourself on your rifle and not just going by what is written somewhere.
Great minds must think alike :) I was just coming to ask the same question. I was bit by the same thing a while back, everyone told me that the twist straight on my rifle was 1:14. And I better not try running anything over 100 grains. (250-3000) I broke out the cleaning rod and stuck a piece of electrical tape on it for a flag, and it is a 10 twist. Trust But verify right?
 
Great minds must think alike :) I was just coming to ask the same question. I was bit by the same thing a while back, everyone told me that the twist straight on my rifle was 1:14. And I better not try running anything over 100 grains. (250-3000) I broke out the cleaning rod and stuck a piece of electrical tape on it for a flag, and it is a 10 twist. Trust But verify right?
Absolutely!

My H&R HandiRifle (SB2) was supposed to be 1:18, according to everyone, including H&R. Nope. 1:16. Well, 1:15-3/4” actually. Close enough.

I use a rough guesstimate calculation to determine stability:
This is based on the Miller Rule - a note to benchresters: we’re talking about shooting deer under 100yds with pistol cartridges, not billion mile bullseyes over desert landscapes.

You can use the shortcut formula:

(V*12/R)*60=RPM

That quick and dirty formula tells me how many RPM the bullet is spinning on leaving the barrel. For a .38/.357 I want a number over 35K for true flight but under what the alloy will sustain: about 55K for swaged antimonial lead. Faster than that and the bullet comes apart.

I tend to prefer a 200gr cast but if his carbine really is 1:30 that might not work at a reasonable velocity. A 900fps 158gr lead bullet to the pump house will drop a Whitetail easily. But it needs to go through the heart muscle to get it right.
 
All of the .357 Rossi 92s have 1:30 twist

My Rossi 92 shoots 180 grain cast bullets very well, and I'm very happy with the accuracy at 100 yards. Of course those are full power loads. I do have some 180 grain XTPs but haven't shot any through the Rossi yet.

You might have problems getting a 180 grain bullet fast enough to stabilize well with 231, so I'd definitely recommend any good magnum pistol powder with the 180s.
 
My grandson has killed a plethora of deer under 100 yards with the 1982 model Marlin 1894C .357 using the 140 FTX or a 158 Jacketed flat nose. We found the hollow points do not penetrate as needed.
 
I've had pretty good results with SWCs and suspect they would work. I have been very impressed by the LBT shapes, though, and gave up SWCs in favor of them several decades ago. I would try the 180 WFN-GC unless you are sure that the rifle won't stabilize them. In that case, the 160 LFN-GC would be my choice.

Caveat: I have never shot a deer with a .357 of any sort and probably won't ever try it, so I can personally vouch for the above only in .44 and .45 caliber bullets.
 
... I would get a couple hundred small rifle primers also. Do not load full on max loads with regular small pistol primers. ...

Why is that? Do the rifles ignite compressed loads of H110 better, or are you concerned about primer cup weakness?
 
Why is that? Do the rifles ignite compressed loads of H110 better, or are you concerned about primer cup weakness?
I prefer them for magnum loads in both rifle and handgun due to primer cup thickness. Never had a problem with small pistol magnum, but lately SR have been easier to find.. I've never had an issue igniting them in a rifle or modern revolver.
 
I prefer them for magnum loads in both rifle and handgun due to primer cup thickness. Never had a problem with small pistol magnum, but lately SR have been easier to find.. I've never had an issue igniting them in a rifle or modern revolver.
I have. My Ruger Vaquero and my S&W 686+ will fail on SR primers about a third of the time. It might be because the primers are for AR's. Both revolvers were made in the last few years and are 100% on SP and SPM. I wanted to use the SR primers when I could not get SPM. Recently, I was able to pick up plenty of SPM, but it was a challenge for a few years there. I do see problems with SP (non-Magnum) primers on compressed loads of ball powders like H110/296, Lil'Gun, IMR4227. Those really need a SPM or SR. No doubt, my revolvers could be made to strike the SR primers dependably with a stronger main spring.

I have not had a problem with cup thickness on SP primers until pressure gets in the high 40-thousands, which I won't shoot in this cartridge.
 
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