.357 trim lenght?

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lauderdale

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Let me ask this at what length do you stop and put your brass in the recycle bin? Loading for a 686 s&w 4 inch barrel. I know I can trim down for 38. but have plenty.
 
I have trimmed revolver cases such as 357 Magnum when I want to get a uniform roll crimp for that batch of cases. But, once trimmed, they never needed trimming again.

Other than that, I never trim handgun cases.

If you shorten 357 Magnum cases to 38 Special length, the thickness of the new case mouth may be too thick and could potentially cause chambering issues, maybe not.

In any case, when my 357 Magnum cases fail, they are pretty much toast and not worth doing anything else with.
 
I agree, I almost never trim my .357 brass. I have been loading some of the batches since the 1980's, but I have thousands of cases to use. As a rule I don't tend to load a lot of max loading's so my brass lasts a long time. I do get the occasional issue but that usually means tossing the case.
 
1.280. For light target loads you never have to trim again. For full power loads it will stretch a little.

Some people never trim revolver brass. I never clean primer pockets on handgun brass, but I do trim revolver brass. Fred cleans all primer pockets, but doesn't trim revolver brass. We all have our own little ways.

I have shot trimmed vs untrimmed .38 Spl and I cannot shoot the difference, if there is one, but I still trim it.

That said, if I shot half of what Fred shoots in .38 Spl per year, I might no trim it either, especially when it doesn't show on target. :)
 
Not that you'll ever really need to know since trimming handgun brass is virtually not required, but the SAAMI minimum case length for .357 is 1.270". That's 1.290" -.020. And that's 5 thou shorter than the minimum case length for .38 Special. Not that you'll ever really need to know that either. You pitch revolver cases when the case mouth cracks.
 
1.280. For light target loads you never have to trim again. For full power loads it will stretch a little.

Some people never trim revolver brass. I never clean primer pockets on handgun brass, but I do trim revolver brass. Fred cleans all primer pockets, but doesn't trim revolver brass. We all have our own little ways.

I have shot trimmed vs untrimmed .38 Spl and I cannot shoot the difference, if there is one, but I still trim it.

That said, if I shot half of what Fred shoots in .38 Spl per year, I might no trim it either, especially when it doesn't show on target. :)
1.280 would be a bit long for the new Winchester cases I have processed. I found the cases are long enough to settle on 1.275 trim to get a consistent crimp. As far as when to scrap, perfectly good cases can be down to 1.265 but need to be segregated as 1.265 -.000+.005 for a different crimp adjustment. Case don't seem to shrink, so I check them for length before they go into the pipeline. I sort by head stamp, favoring Winchester and Starline, some PMC, so the variation within each is minimal.
 
I have had a few under 1.280, I just chamfer/deburr and use them. I settled on 1.280 so long ago I don't remember the thought process.
 
Yes I sort also. I don't have a lot of used brass in .357 so I tend to get particular also. It is nice to get a box of 50 rnds. of once shot w/a longer length! Was wanting to extend the life of the brass itself length wise but setting dies again and again is just part of it. I have bought a set of dies a while back off of our BSTrade forum and have them and orderd another set of rcbs .38/.357 carbide also w/taper crimp just to try two different style crimps. But iam glad you fellas all weighted in.
 
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