.357SIG or .40S&W?

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I have a Sig P229 with .40, .357Sig and 9mm barrels. The .40 barrel is ported. Although I can therefore shoot any of the three, I find I leave the .357Sig barrel in most of the time. I just enjoy shooting it more than the other two, and I have no concern with cost because I reload for all three calibers. For me, the .357Sig recoil is more manageable with less muzzle flip than .40. I do have feed issues sometimes with the .40 because the after-market barrel is made to tight specs and I need to use a Lee FCD or I can have cartridges that don't go fully into battery. Never a problem with the .357Sig. I would trust both in a SD situation.
 
357 Sig for the energy oriented.
40 if you prefer bigger diameter.
Being indecisive I got both.

Glock 32:
Winchester Ranger T 125 gr. @ 1,340 fps / 499# KE / PF 168
Speer Gold Dot 125 gr. @ 1,344 fps / 501# KE / PF 168
Federal HST 125 gr. @ 1,358 fps / 512# KE / PF 170

Glock 23:
Remington Golden Saber 165 gr. @ 1,048 fps / 402# KE / PF 173
Federal HST 180 gr. @ 1003 fps / 402# KE / PF 181
Winchester Ranger T 165 @ 1,146 fps / 481# KE / PF 189

357 Sig produces more KE with a bit less recoil.
 
.357SIG or .40S&W?

Both! Get a Glock 23 or 32 and a Storm Lake barrel in the opposite round.

I have a Glock 35, .40, and yes a Storm Lake .357 Sig barrel.

1600 fps for the 125 grain Double Tap .357 Sig load, and with a switch of the barrels, T series .40 S&W.

Yes, get both. Then a 9mm conversion barrel and ammo shortages will be no sweat.

Deaf
 
For a defensive pistol I take caliber for granted as long as it's the minimum of 9mm. I always choose the gun based on the action/trigger, then size when compared to my intended purpose like HD VS a CCW gun for example.

I would not forsake the pistol I want just to get it in a specific caliber.

Normally, I would totally agree. However, what if your first 3 choices were pretty close. Unless I spend about $100 extra and go with the CZ PCR, it appears that either the Ruger SR40 and the Springfield XD may end up my first choice. I'm pretty sure there are no .357SIG barrels for any of those (none that I know of anyway). However, the Glock 23 and the SIG P250 and P320 aren't far behind, and they can easily be converted to .357SIG and back. So, for otherwise close choices, would it be worth going with a close 2nd choice for the versatility?

I like 357 Sig for CCW mainly because each magazine weighs less.

That is a good point that I didn't even think about.

Yes, get both.

I'm kind of leaning that way.

.40S&W, you can get 40 anywhere, not so with .357Sig.

Yes, but my thinking is to get one and a conversion barrel for the other. That way, when the next shortage hits I'm set (they rarely seem to hit all chamberings at once, and with the .40 and .357 barrels I will have handguns in .380, 9mm, .40, .357SIG, .45ACP, .38spl, .357mag, and .45LC so I should be set). I will only carry whichever the gun is officially chambered in, but for range use it will add versatility.
 
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Around here, at least, .357SIG is "boutique ammo", in that only certain shops have any availability. For versatility, I use the Wal-Mart test. If I can usually find it at Wal-Mart during panics, I can get it. If you are looking strictly for semi-auto availability, stick with the Big3 (9mm, .40, .45). If you just want to be ABLE to shoot .357SIG because you like the round, then get something chambered in it, or a conversion.

But, if the .40 is going to be your main carry round, I would worry more about the fit and function of the gun, than the availability of a conversion. If the gun you fall in love with in .40 doesn't have a .357SIG conversion, find a second firearm you love, specifically in .357SIG.
 
I like 357 Sig for CCW mainly because each magazine weighs less.

I usually do 10 rounds of 165-180grn .40 or 10 rounds of 125 357 Sig.

Per magazine you can actually tell the difference in weight.

357 is actually a pretty nice round for distance shooting as well (OT side note).

But what's the difference in barrel weight??:D

I'd never thought about the overall weight of the gun till you brought that up...

Chuck
 
I consider the 357 sig a "boutique caliber". When it came out it was the hottest thing since sliced bread (just like everything else when it comes out). It never really caught on, and even though air marshals and a few other agencies adopted it, I think it will just be obsolete or go the way of calibers like 10mm, 41 AE, etc. The 40 is the only one that came out in recent history and truly "caught on". Plus you can get 40 at any wal mart that sells ammo.
 
I have the choice and chose 40 cal. Same bullet as my 10MM and plenty of reloading supplies around. As to effectiveness, no difference to me.
 
I have several .40s and two .357 SIGs (P226 and G32). I like both cartridges. But, if I had to make a choice of keeping one or the other, I'd likely go with the .40 S&W primarily because my preference would go to the heavy 180 grain 40 caliber bullet at ~1000 fps over lighter bullets traveling faster.

40v357.gif
 
Get a .40 for higher resale value

Get a Glock 23 & a Lone Wolf or Glock .357 SIG barrel. Here is a smoking deal on a G-23 gen 3:
$365
http://summitgunbroker.com/glock-23.html

Or
A G-22 for $329:

http://summitgunbroker.com/g22--329.html

By the way I just got one of G-23 from the link above. It looks new to me with the exception of the coppery goop from the factory. The night sight have a few years of service in them & the finish is perfect.
 
Well, I bought a new gun. I'll have to wait a little while longer on a new .40 or for my first .357SIG, I went with another 9mm. I know, boring right :neener: ?

For over a decade now I've wanted a CZ PCR, but they are nearly impossible to find right now. So, I ended up buying a CZ P01 (in green) since it is basically a PCR with a rail (i.e. close enough). My CZ 75B fits my hands just about perfectly, the ergonomics are incredible, and the P01 is almost identical. The size is nearly perfect for what I'm looking for (though I'd love just a little thinner), the 28oz weight is perfect for what I want this time (light enough for carry, heavy enough for quick follow up shots and extended range sessions), CZ reliability and accuracy and a good solid defensive caliber.

The only thing that sucks is MD's waiting period, I can't pick it up until next week. Though, that gives me a little extra time to find a good holster.
 
The 357 Sig is a .40 S&W necked down to .357 so I am with those who suggest getting the .40 S&W along with the extra barrel. We shortened a 10mm to get the .40 and necked down the .40 to get the .357 Sig. The .40 S&W came along back around 94 and the .357 Sig around 98. The concept was nothing new as Bo Clerke necked a .45 ACP down to make the 45-38, 45-357 and any of a few other names. That was during the 60s. The idea being a fat cartridge to drive a small bullet at a high velocity. The 357 Sig seemed to take off and then it sort of died while the .40 it spawned from seems to still enjoy a popular lifestyle. Anyway I would get a .40 S&W and a .357 Sig barrel. Wonder how a 10mm would fare necked down to .357? :)

Ron
 
The 357 Sig is a .40 S&W necked down to .357 so I am with those who suggest getting the .40 S&W along with the extra barrel. We shortened a 10mm to get the .40 and necked down the .40 to get the .357 Sig. The .40 S&W came along back around 94 and the .357 Sig around 98. The concept was nothing new as Bo Clerke necked a .45 ACP down to make the 45-38, 45-357 and any of a few other names. That was during the 60s. The idea being a fat cartridge to drive a small bullet at a high velocity. The 357 Sig seemed to take off and then it sort of died while the .40 it spawned from seems to still enjoy a popular lifestyle. Anyway I would get a .40 S&W and a .357 Sig barrel. Wonder how a 10mm would fare necked down to .357? :)

Ron
Well actually the .357 is NOT a necked down .40 S&W. It's a necked down and shortened 10mm. The brass is thicker than the .40 S&W brass. Hence very few kabooms with .357 Sig.

But by all means, get a .357 Sig or .40 S&W and an aftermarket barrel in the other caliber. In fact, you can get a 10mm, say a Colt Delta Elite, in 10mm, and barrels and mags in .40 S&W, .357 Sig, and 9x25 Dillon!

Deaf
 
The P01 is a solid choice. I bought one recently and it's a great little gun - I actually like the way it handles a bit better than the PCR.
 
.357 seems to have an edge on the .40 for barrier pen. Window glass, cars etc. etc. And for some odd reason, it retains it's weight better after hitting a windshield than 9mm does.

.40 seemed to have an edge on meat and water jugs. Less noise. Cheaper ammo.

With a Glock 23, you only need a stock Glock 32 barrel and a magazine to convert to .357. Win win, either way. Both seem perfectly reliable.
 
.40 S&W for easier/cheaper availability of practice ammo.

A well-placed shot from either caliber will have the same effect.

Its a handgun. Not a vehicle immobilizer.
If the target is something that could not be stopped with one well-placed swing of a baseball bat, you should think twice about engaging it with a handgun. Any handgun.
 
We occasionally have 357 sig in our local Wm, just NOT hp lately.

I like the 357 over 40. I have lots of Speer Gold Dot and Winchester WB hp ammo, as well as handloads. The cartridge shoots flat, feeds more easily, penetrates windshields and car doors better, with less recoil. A DPS officer friend has used it to defend himself from a homicidal felon and swears by it.

I own a couple of 40s, too. And a 10mm. The ultimate 40. :cool:

I also like the 40 > 357 > 40 barrel swap idea.

M
 
Its a handgun. Not a vehicle immobilizer.
If the target is something that could not be stopped with one well-placed swing of a baseball bat, you should think twice about engaging it with a handgun. Any handgun.

Unless you're shooting from/through your own car you're sitting in. A scenario sadly becoming more likely in the US (not just Juarez).

The random ringing in my ears still reminds me of having to shoot through my own truck.
 
I would pick the .357 SIG, but only because I have been quite favorably impressed by the performance of light bullets in the .357 Magnum. There are plenty of good reasons to go with the .40 instead (see above) if that factor is not compelling for you.
 
I think the .40 and 357 SIG both are really the best bang for your buck out there. I have a Glock 23 and a 357 SIG barrel for it as well. Honestly most of the time I keep it .40 but the 357 SIG is a cool round that is fun to shoot. Both bring a LOT of firepower in a very compact package. Reloading for them makes them both even better.

BTW .40 came out around 1990 and the 357 SIG around 1994.
 
I like the aspect of 357S being a performance 9mm. However, if I had to choose, I would get the firearm in 40S&W and the conversion barrel in 357S.

I do not buy into the availability argument - that in a panic buying situation 357S would be more available than 40S&W. In 2008, all handgun ammo was greatly affected. I remember going to the local big box store and the only thing on the shelf was 7.62 Nagant revolver ammo and 327 Federal. However 2012 was different. While many handgun calibers were affected, 9mm was affected much more, but other calibers were available, albeit at an inflated price.
Manufacturers chose to produce the in demand, broad appeal items at the expense of smaller volume calibers.

From a reloading standpoint, I would be a little concerned about the availability of 357S components - it has a lot less of a following - you probably aren't going to be able to pick up as many once fired cased from your local range compared to 40S&W. It can't be formed from 40S&W, it requires special .355" bullets, probably needs a slow powder to discourage setback, and has a bottleneck pistol case which requires steel dies and lube unless you also reload 40S&W.

The counter argument to that would be, "I will just stock up on 357S ammo and components." However, the issue with that would be - why not just stock up on 40S&W ammo and components for a little less?

From a cost aspect, the 357S has to cost more than 40S&W. The brass costs more, jacketed bullets cost less, but you have the option of shooting lead bullets in 40S&W. There is no cost difference in primers and the powder is negligible.

I like the performance aspect - 125gr going 1400fps is awesome, its just that IMHO some of the negatives make it easier to just shoot 40S&W.
 
From a cost aspect, the 357S has to cost more than 40S&W. The brass costs more, jacketed bullets cost less, but you have the option of shooting lead bullets in 40S&W. There is no cost difference in primers and the powder is negligible.

You know it's funny, but the majority of guys saying there's an issue with reloading 357S seem to not actually reload for it................

It is cheaper, once you figure brass as a given, bottom line is it's cheaper to buy .355 diameter 124 or 125 bullets in bulk than it is 155 or higher for .40. The 357S doesn't require "special" bullets, just a blunt nose profile and a straight body section, there's a host of bullets that work, and a bunch that are designed with the 357S in mind:

Here's just 1 example for plated bullets:

Berries 124 HBFP Heavy plate 357S bullet:

http://www.tjconevera.com/be9mm124grho.html

$99 per 1K delivered

Berries 10mm/40 155grn:

http://www.tjconevera.com/berrys-4010mm-15.html

$121 per 1K delivered.

Coated bullets are similar from Bayou Bullets:
9mm 124 FPs are $68 per 1000
.40 155s are $76 per 1000

As for brass costs, TJ Conevera has

357S 1000 processed for $65
.40 1000 processed for $60

http://www.tjconevera.com/oncefiredbrass.html

So in your 1st 1000 rds of either coated or plated bullets, you'll make up for your additional brass costs......

I actually bought 4000 pieces of 357S brass of a gentleman on this site for about $195 delivered ($40 per 1K before shipping).

BTW, there are Dillon Carbide dies available for the 357S, so spend a little more and skip the lube (as I do), or initial size with a .40 carbide die and skip the lube.

Chuck
 
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