38 Special seating depth

[tranders]

I'm loading 3.2 grains of Tightgroup with a 158 LRN. The problem I'm having if I crimp in the crimping grove my OAL is 1.46 and min OAL in my reloading manual is 1.475. Should I not crimp in the groove or will this be ok?

Thanks for the help!

 

[rcmodel]

It will be fine.
You are using a very light starting load of Titegroup so seating depth is not an issue.

Always seat to the crimp groove of the bullet design you are using.

It is very unlikely to be the same one in the manual.

rc

 

[tranders]

Great. Thanks so much

 

[James2]

I agree. Always crimp in the crimping ring. It won't be a problem as long as the round is not too long for the piece it will be fired in.

When playing with loads near max pressures, the seating depth becomes a definite concern, but other than that follow the old rule, "Start Low and Work Up."

 

[ArchAngelCD]

When it comes to revolver ammo the OAL in the manual is useless to you unless you are using the same exact brass, trimmed to the same exact length and using the same exact bullet they used. You should always use the manufacturers supplied crimp groove when one is supplied. That is the correct spot to crimp for that bullet.

 

[ljnowell]

When it comes to revolver ammo the OAL in the manual is useless to you unless you are using the same exact brass, trimmed to the same exact length and using the same exact bullet they used. You should always use the manufacturers supplied crimp groove when one is supplied. That is the correct spot to crimp for that bullet.

As long as you are roll crimping.

In many cases a light taper crimp can give better accuracy when using fast powders.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

As long as you are roll crimping.

In many cases a light taper crimp can give better accuracy when using fast powders.

I didn't think a new reloader would be playing around with a taper crimp on revolver rounds. I can't say as I agree with a taper crimp when a very light roll crimp will achieve the same end. I also don't usually use very fast powders in the .38 Special, I usually use W231/HP-38...

 

[ljnowell]

I didn't think a new reloader would be playing around with a taper crimp on revolver rounds. I can't say as I agree with a taper crimp when a very light roll crimp will achieve the same end. I also don't usually use very fast powders in the .38 Special, I usually use W231/HP-38...

A light taper, literally just straightening out the case, world best with fast powders such as AA#2 when loading for bullseye accuracy. In those loads a roll crimp isn't necessary and can be detrimental to accuracy.

I have even seen bullseye shooters that don't resize cases and seat bullets with their fingers by pushing them into the cases by hand. These are usually much older guys and their scores are quite impressive.

When I did my own testing, with all other things equal, roll crimped rounds didn't shoot groups as tight as uncrimped or taper crimped.

 

[moxie]

No crimp or a very light roll crimp are all that's needed for these light loads, provided you have good case neck tension.

In your die instructions, use the "bullet seating without crimping" section if yours has that. Or just crimp lightly enough that the completed round will easily chamber. No more crimp is needed.

Crimping is needed for heavy loads to prevent "bullet jump." You can search and find lots of info on that.

For example: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=758412&highlight=bullet+jump

 

[Zeke/PA]

Stick with the crimping groove on your particular bullet.
You can't go wrong by doing this as you havta crimp anyway!

 

[ljnowell]

Stick with the crimping groove on your particular bullet.

You can't go wrong by doing this as you havta crimp anyway!

Not really important to this thread, but you really don't have to crimp.