.40 Brass bulge, problem?

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Peakbagger46

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I just started reloading for my glock (a gen 3 27) a couple of weeks ago. I've noticed the bulge toward the rear of the case does not go away when full-length resized through my RCBS carbide die. After about 4 firings, a few of the cases were hard to resize and exhibited a bright abrasion ring about 2/3 of the way down the case. I threw these cases out but I'm still a bit concerned with the fact that most all of the brass is bulged after resizing.

They do all fit in my glock chamber after being resized, and I am not using hot loads. Should I maybe get an aftermarked barrel with more support just to be on the safe side?
 
The issue of 'unsupported chambers' has been around a while with both sides adamant that they are correct.

I wouldn't worry about the 'bulge' you're seeing after resizing; that is common with dies for handgun brass.

mbogo
 
That or a Redding G-Rx die to size the base before sizing in your carbide die. It works well on the brass that has the bulge I get from a police dept range. Mine is 357 SIG, but the bulge is the same.

Jimmy K
 
Thanks. Also, if I do end up going with an aftermarked barrel with a tighter chamber, will the brass wear on subsequent firings be reduced since it will only be "stretched" to this degree on the first firing? I have THOUSANDS of .40 casings from a ranger officer friend, all fired in glock 22's.
 
That lee die looks interesting, I noticed the redding is not carbide. Could I use the Lee on my RCBS press if I also buy the lee crimping die?
 
Yes.

The Lee die is the FCD die without the stop screw in it.

I believe you could use a 9mm or .38 Spl case filled with lead or epoxy to push .40's through the FCD carbide insert.

rc
 
That lee die looks interesting, I noticed the redding is not carbide.
Redding offers a carbide version. I have one, but it is quite a bit more expensive than the earlier unit. The set was about $95.
 
Double check to make sure your sizing die is set correctly. I've never had an issue getting my .40 brass properly sized with my Dillon dies on my 550b.
 
I recommend you full-length size all of your fired cases even though they chamber in your looser Glock barrels because the bulges will affect your case length and OAL of the loaded rounds.

If you can't full-length size, use the push-through sizing dies mentioned above.

If you are concerned about over-working the higher pressure load 40S&W cases, use the thighter Lone Wolf aftermarket barrel. Even shooting near max/max loads, I do not get bulged cases from LW barrels.
 
I have been using the Lee Bulge Buster with the FCD to repair Glocked .40/10mm cases. It makes them perfect. It works best if you run that step first, before FL sizing. Also, a bit of case lube helps a lot, even if your dies are carbide.

+1 on the aftermarket barrel. It will minimize the stress on the cases.
 
As others have mentioned, the Redding GRx works great and is a worthwhile investment if you shoot 40 S&W or 10mm.
I've resized 1000's of 40 S&W and 10mm using a GRx die. I just picked up the newer carbide version and noticed it doesn't size the cases quite as much, but they still pass the case gauge fine. Even though it's a carbide die, I prefer to use a small amount of case lube anyway.
 
Just get a new barrel with a supported chamber. Even if you can make the bulged brass look good, working, resizing the brass will weaken it and at some point, it WILL give. If you ever have a case blow out, it would really SUCK bad.
 
Just get a new barrel with a supported chamber. Even if you can make the bulged brass look good, working, resizing the brass will weaken it and at some point, it WILL give. If you ever have a case blow out, it would really SUCK bad.
+1. Why bother trying to "un bulge" every piece of brass? Even if you do, eventually it will weaken and bad things can happen, hence all the warnings posted. For $100 a new after market barrel fully supported would solve the problem and be safer in the long run.
 
A Casepro 1000 roll sizer makes them like new even in the extractor grove. I automated one of mine so I don’t have to do anything except dump brass into the hopper.

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th_casepro.jpg
 
Actually, newer Gen3/Gen4 Glock barrels have improved case base support at the ramp area comparable to the Lone Wolf barrels. HOWEVER, the chambers are still looser than most factory barrels and it's this looseness that's causing the bulges 2/3 way down the case as many posted. My Lee sizing dies will take out these bulges.

With older generation Glock barrels, since there is less case base support at the ramp area with loose chambers, bulges are more prominent and at the base of the case. My Lee sizing dies will not take out these "smiley face" bulges.

I have found sizing 9mm and 40S&W cases in the single stage using standard shell holder allows me to size further down the case base then using the progressive press because the shell holder top is thinner than the shell plate top. You can use the push through sizing die, but as many posted, repeated sizing of the bulges will eventually weaken the brass.

If your Glock barrel is causing bulges your sizing die cannot take out, I would recommend the Lone Wolf barrel which has tighter chamber size and better case base support which minimize bulges from occurring. If you pick up range brass with bulges and shoot LW barrels in your Glocks, you would need to "push through size" cases only once as they will resize fine in your regular sizing die. BTW, fired cases from LW barrels are much easier to resize and makes the resizing/depriming process more effortless. :D
 
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