44 Magnum loads for my Super Redhawk Alaskan?

I don’t reload, so……

Do any of you have recommendations for “bear loads” and self defense loads for a non-reloader guy? S&W 629 3”.
Thanks in advanc!
 
Sour Kraut said:
I don’t reload, so……

Do any of you have recommendations for “bear loads” and self defense loads for a non-reloader guy? S&W 629 3”.
Thanks in advanc!
Click to expand...
For Bear Defense, I like the heavy bullet loads in short barrels. There's less powder to burn, so the short barrel is less of a hinderance. The heavy projectile will have the momentum required to penetrate dangerous game such as bear.

For standard self defense against humans, I'd still stick with a rapidly expanding hollowpoint. This will provide maximum stoppage power and minimize overpenetration. 240 grain XTP or similar bullet.
 
It has nothing to do with "less powder to burn". If you were able to load them with more powder, you would get more velocity, no matter the barrel length. Fact is, these cartridges are simply more efficient and do their best work with heavier bullets.
 
CAUTION: The following post includes loading data beyond currently published maximums for this cartridge. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Neither the writer, The High Road, nor the staff of THR assume any liability for any damage or injury resulting from use of this information.

More data.... I bought some 340 gr bullets (LBT-LWFNGC) from Rim Rock bullets. As before this is out of my Ruger Super Red Hawk Alaskan, 2.5" barrel.

1.772 OAL

21gr H110
Average: 1143 fps
Standard deviation: 16.5 fps

21.5 gr H110
Average: 1185 fps
Standard deviation: 16.3 fps

I shot 12 rounds of the 21.5 gr load and my hand barely held up. This is one stout load. Although I did not see as much case expansion, judged by how tight the cartridges were in the cylinder after firing, as I did with the 22gr load with 320 gr bullets. Primers looked good too. If I get up the nerve I may try a few of the rounds with 22gr of H110.

Thanks to CraigC for the link to this load data.
 
torchroadster said:
CAUTION: The following post includes loading data beyond currently published maximums for this cartridge. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Neither the writer, The High Road, nor the staff of THR assume any liability for any damage or injury resulting from use of this information.

More data.... I bought some 340 gr bullets (LBT-LWFNGC) from Rim Rock bullets. As before this is out of my Ruger Super Red Hawk Alaskan, 2.5" barrel.

1.772 OAL

21gr H110
Average: 1143 fps
Standard deviation: 16.5 fps

21.5 gr H110
Average: 1185 fps
Standard deviation: 16.3 fps

I shot 12 rounds of the 21.5 gr load and my hand barely held up. This is one stout load. Although I did not see as much case expansion, judged by how tight the cartridges were in the cylinder after firing, as I did with the 22gr load with 320 gr bullets. Primers looked good too. If I get up the nerve I may try a few of the rounds with 22gr of H110.

Thanks to CraigC for the link to this load data.
Click to expand...
Late to the party, but I see your loaded rounds pic and noticed your crimp is way light. H110 must have the magnum primer and a crimp that goes all the way to the bottom of the crimp groove. You must also seat and crimp the bullet in two separate steps. Bonus: trim all your cases to the same length for consistent crimp (only has to be done once).

I am a bit otc on this, but I have had excellent results with heavy hardcast in 44 magnum and 45 long colt loadings.

luck,

murf
 
Yes I would like to have more crimp but it's the best I could get with my die set. (Hornady Custom Grade). Is there a crimp die that you recommend?
 
Question: are your 340 gainers pulling out of the case? If you load up six, fire five then check coal before and after on the sixth round you can find out if the bullet in your rounds will possibly tie up the gun.

luck,

murf
 
torchroadster said:
Yes I would like to have more crimp but it's the best I could get with my die set. (Hornady Custom Grade). Is there a crimp die that you recommend?
Click to expand...
All seating dies should be able to apply as hard or soft crimp you need. Suggest you reread the die instructions and crimp in a separate step.

@Walkalong has the best pics of the correct heavy crimp. maybe he can share.

let us know how it goes. there are a whole bunch of thr members that can describe the perfect crimp a lot better than I.

murf
 
I am seating and crimping in the same step, on a progressive press. Are you saying take one pass just seating (with the die backed out to not crimp) then back off the seating stem, screw in the die and take another pass to crimp?
 
torchroadster said:
I am seating and crimping in the same step, on a progressive press. Are you saying take one pass just seating (with the die backed out to not crimp) then back off the seating stem, screw in the die and take another pass to crimp?
Click to expand...
yes, but in your case, it would be better to buy another seating die for another station on your press. set up the first for seating and the second for crimping.

murf
 
Personally I like a stout load - but not so heavy I can't recover quickly for a second or third shot-
- or a possibility of locking up the gun after the first shot.....
....just something to think about....
 
didn't see your pics till now. the crimp is good. Just make sure the case wall is not bulged out. you can run your calipers up and down the case to check for an even diameter.

keep us posted on your progress,

murf.

p.s. you will know your crimp is too heavy when little rings of brass come off the case when the round comes out of the die.
 
I've played with the 50,000 psi rounds in my Super Red Hawk. These loads convinced me I didn't really need a 500 magnum. Plenty of power in a size gun I want to carry.
Also playing around with the 320 grain bullets with Unique at velocity around 900 fps. Low recoil and passes through a 8 inch wood post like it was nothing.
Same post and a 240 grain plated bullets only got about half way if that much, sameish velocity. Checking depth with a twig.
 
CAUTION: The following post includes loading data beyond currently published maximums for this cartridge. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Neither the writer, The High Road, nor the staff of THR assume any liability for any damage or injury resulting from use of this information.

Another update. I tested 12 rounds of 340 gr LBT-LWFNGC over 21.5 gr of H110, with the tighter crimp from the Lee factory crimp die.

Average velocity was essentially identical to my previous tests with the lighter crimp. Standard deviation was slightly lower. Note: I only got data from 9 rounds, since the other 3 produced a chronograph error.

Light crimp
Avg. 1185 fps, SD=16.3 fps
Heavy Crimp
Avg. 1188 fps, SD= 15 fps

I did inspect some unfired rounds that were still in the cylinder compared to others that had not been in the cylinder to check for bullet movement due to recoil. The round on the left was in the cylinder while the round on the right was not. Although I didn't have calipers with me, you can see evidence of some bullet movement due to recoil. Nevertheless this did not seem to affect velocity.

20230919_153120.jpg

I also loaded 3 rounds at 22gr of H110, this is over published load data. Unfortunately the chronograph only registered on one of the 3, where I achieved 1218 fps, only slightly more than my max velocity at 21.5 gr of 1208 fps.
 
murf said:
didn't see your pics till now. the crimp is good. Just make sure the case wall is not bulged out. you can run your calipers up and down the case to check for an even diameter.

keep us posted on your progress,

murf.

p.s. you will know your crimp is too heavy when little rings of brass come off the case when the round comes out of the die.
Click to expand...


I should add to the post above - I didn't see any over pressure signs on the case or the primers with either load. The brass ejected from the cylinder without binding after firing. I'm wondering how much higher I dare try? Is there a better powder than H110 to try for this 2.5" barrel?
 
torchroadster said:
I should add to the post above - I didn't see any over pressure signs on the case or the primers with either load. The brass ejected from the cylinder without binding after firing. I'm wondering how much higher I dare try? Is there a better powder than H110 to try for this 2.5" barrel?
Click to expand...
I keep my loads within reloading manual guidelines. There are other powders, but I don't think better powders for this application.

Sticking cases, in that gun, won't happen until way above max pressures. I would not use this as a proxy for overpressure.
 
you seem to be on a plateau with your powder charge. in my experience with that powder (h110), increasing the charge will not increase velocity (and may even reduce it) for a grain or two. increasing the charge further will then greatly increase velocity and the cases will start to stick. I take this as a sign of max powder charge. this may not happen to you.

just an fyi,

murf
 
Last edited:
torchroadster said:
… I didn't see any over pressure signs on the case or the primers with either load. The brass ejected from the cylinder without binding after firing. I'm wondering how much higher I dare try?
Click to expand...
Primer appearance is a poor pressure indicater in revolvers. Speer has included the following in their manuals for decades.

IMG_3963.jpeg
 
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