45 ACP round ball?

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Blue Brick

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Is it possible to load round balls in 45 ACP like the 45 Auto rim? Is it as easy as loading round balls in a Colt single action?

Just for fun can you use black powder instead of smokeless powder?
 
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Ah no, dont think so, and NO.

why?

Wrong, but not an uncommon answer.

45 caliber round balls can, and do, function well in 45 autos.

I use this one :

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/15...-451-diameter-round-ball?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Lighter than most 45 RB's- some crazy guys are trying multiple balls- but not I. Case is really not big enough for both and powder IMO, doens't mean its not been tried- but it works way better in 44 then I would expect it to in 45.

They work just fine over 5 grains of unique. Surprisingly accurate... but I was surprised about BP roundballs, too.

The trick is getting the crimp right on the equator of the RB. When I tried it, I hand rolled the spheres in LLA, and then seated them.

I have better bullets, but if its all I had, I would use it.
 
It would only be unsafe if there were air space between the BP and the ball. It might not fully cycle the action but I can't see it being unsafe. I bet the case wouldn't even take 25gr (by volume) but even at 35 it should be safe for the gun. Sounds kinda fun to try actually...
 
Black powder is composed of charcoal, sulfur and potassium nitrate. It burns rapidly at a linear rate regardless of the pressure but produces less maximum pressure than does modern smokless powder. and, yes, it does produce clouds of smoke when it is used as a gun powder.

Smokeless powder is composed of two basic materials. One is nitrocellulose and the other is nitroglycerine. Some smokeless powders are made of only one of these materials and is called a single base powder. Others are composed of a mixture of both components and are called double based powders. The reasosn for using mixtures of the two components is to control their burning rates. Faster burning powders are used for shotguns and handguns. The slower burning powders are used for rifle powders.

Smokeless powders are all progressive burning powders. That means that as the pressure within the cartridge increases, so does the burning rate. It produces a more gentle acceleration than does black powder and achieved much greater final pressures and higher total velocities than will blackpowder. Blackpowder burns at the same rate regardless of the increasing pressure. The maximum pressure is reached more quickly but is significalntly less than smokeless powder. These lower total pressures of black powder are the reason that you cannot use smokeless powder in a gun designed for black powder. You will blow it up and yourself along with it.

As for the comparative cleanleness of the two types of powder, black powder leaves MUCH more residue than does smokeless powder. In addition, when the sulfur and potassium nitrate burn they form sulfuric acid and nitric acid which are very corrosive to metal. Black powder residue must be completely removed from your gun as soon as you are through shooting for the day to keep the gun from rusting away. Smokeless powdeer does not have this problem and immediate cleaning is not an issue as long as you don't have any old or foreign cartridges with smokeless powder but a corrosive primer. If you have a cartridge with a corrosive primer, you have to clean immediately.

I guess yall can do it with no problem, but still why put all that corrosive thru a modern gun?

have fun.

be safe
 
Yes, all of those things are true. And I think almost everyone knows black powder fouling needs to be cleaned up promptly.

But if you don't mind cleaning, why NOT do it?
 
Black powder is composed of charcoal, sulfur and potassium nitrate. It burns rapidly at a linear rate regardless of the pressure but produces less maximum pressure than does modern smokless powder. and, yes, it does produce clouds of smoke when it is used as a gun powder.

Here is a link that shows how to make it.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ack-powder-quot&highlight=Making+black+powder

If you have one that can teach us how to make our own smokeless powder, please post it.

Makes for a lot less down time due to shortages when you can make your own.
 
BlueBrick:

I use FFFg black powder and home-cast round balls in my .45ACP conversion cylinder '58 Remington NMA revolver with excellent results. I also load .45AutoRim cases with a 255 grain cast bullet in my "converted" Webley MkIV .45 revolver. Yes, I have to clean both gun and brass cases afterwards but I get good accuracy and no danger of accidental over-load with either of these two "less than stout" handguns.

When shooting round balls from the .45ACP, I have found that the .454" ball is substantially more accurate than the .451". You can only get about 28 grains in a .45ACP case uncompressed, so I use 20 and seat the ball so a light roll crimp holds the ball seated slightly more than half way into the case mouth. My Lee "auto-rim" dies have roll-crimp capacity where the standard ACP dies do not.

I coat my round balls with Lee Liquid Alox to lube. A lubed felt wad under the ball will help keep the powder fouling under control but you have to compress the powder first to be able to load the ball without deforming it if the wad is added.

A compressed 20 grain FFFg load using my .454 round ball, and a 1/8 felt wad gives about 800 fps out of my '58 Remington NMA conversion with its 7.5" barrel. This load shoots to the same POA as when using the issue C&B cylinder. Loaded with 230 Grain cast conical bullets and the same 20 grain load the gun shoots about a foot high at 25 yards. These chronograph right about 600 fps.
 
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