I bought a small number of cast 320 grn REALs to try out in my Lyman's Deerstalker. With 70 grns of 3F and a conical it shot waaaaay to the left. I tried a felt wad and the next two were quite close to each other and just a bit low.
I'd prefer not to need felt wads, and I've been dealing with Accurate Molds. I came up with the idea of having him create a projectile with similar dimensions until you get near the nose, where I'd want to increase the diameter of the last driving band or two, and give it a larger meplat.
Has anyone done such a thing to work in a deep grooved rifle? I'm wondering if that last band is ~.520 how hard it will be to seat it in a ~.502 bore. A solid whack on the short starter? Would that last band need to be the groove diameter or can it be fairly close and still work?
I've also been looking for 370 grn Lyman Maxi's to try, but cannot seem to find anyone who casts them. Anything else that ought to be considered?
As is they push in fairly easy until the last band, which only takes a little effort. My concern is that if I take the last band from 0.510" to 0.518-0.520" that it'll be nearly impossible to seat without a mallet.
What would be the minimum diameter to seal up a ~.520" groove (~.502" X ~.520")?
Looking at my 50 yd target it appeared as though the REAL key-holed as it was oblong.
I figured I'd have Tom keep the overall length about the same (.709"), elongate the base so that it'll fit within a rubber speed loading tube (https://www.dixiegunworks.com/produc...bf827q00d6t0j2) without gumming up the tube with bullet lube (Gatofeo #1), increase the second to last band from .507" to .510-.512", the final band from .510" to .517-.520", and increase the meplat to about .400" or so. I figure this will increase the weight from 320 grns to maybe 350 grns or so, which doesn't matter much to me.
I sure could buy a bunch of felt to punch wads with for the cost of a custom mold though!
I'd prefer not to need felt wads, and I've been dealing with Accurate Molds. I came up with the idea of having him create a projectile with similar dimensions until you get near the nose, where I'd want to increase the diameter of the last driving band or two, and give it a larger meplat.
Has anyone done such a thing to work in a deep grooved rifle? I'm wondering if that last band is ~.520 how hard it will be to seat it in a ~.502 bore. A solid whack on the short starter? Would that last band need to be the groove diameter or can it be fairly close and still work?
I've also been looking for 370 grn Lyman Maxi's to try, but cannot seem to find anyone who casts them. Anything else that ought to be considered?
As is they push in fairly easy until the last band, which only takes a little effort. My concern is that if I take the last band from 0.510" to 0.518-0.520" that it'll be nearly impossible to seat without a mallet.
What would be the minimum diameter to seal up a ~.520" groove (~.502" X ~.520")?
Looking at my 50 yd target it appeared as though the REAL key-holed as it was oblong.
I figured I'd have Tom keep the overall length about the same (.709"), elongate the base so that it'll fit within a rubber speed loading tube (https://www.dixiegunworks.com/produc...bf827q00d6t0j2) without gumming up the tube with bullet lube (Gatofeo #1), increase the second to last band from .507" to .510-.512", the final band from .510" to .517-.520", and increase the meplat to about .400" or so. I figure this will increase the weight from 320 grns to maybe 350 grns or so, which doesn't matter much to me.
I sure could buy a bunch of felt to punch wads with for the cost of a custom mold though!
