6.5 vs 308 for a rebarrel

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greyling22

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I have a rifle with a shot out barrel that needs a rebarrel. And ouch, rebarreling is not cheap. Looks like it is going to cost me a barrel blank ($100-400) plus 300 to have it chambered and installed. Woof.

Caliber.... I reload, I have a long action so I can fit anything in it, but my old caliber was 257ai and brass was hard to come by. So in picking a new caliber I thought I'd either go with a 308 or a 6.5 creedmoor. I don't really shoot super long distances, so the only real advantage I see is the reduced recoil, which is a great selling point. However, from what I can tell, the 6.5 is something of a barrel burner. 2-3k rounds tops before accuracy starts to go, while the 308 is good for 5k+
I'll be shooting suppressed, so the shorter barrels of the 308 have some appeal.

Am I missing something? Is there a more appropriate caliber for my purposes?


And finally, most barrels from reputable makers cost about the same. Criterion, shilien, Hart, bartlein, benchmark, pac-nor, they all cost a pretty penny. There isn't a nearly as good but significantly cheaper option I don't know of is there? Green mountain?
 
I used one Green Mountain barrel. It started as an $85 7x57 short-chamber. I turned it into a 280 AI. It's not a match winner, but it's easily sub MOA.
 
X-Caliber barrels maybe. What kind of shooting you do will determine alot of how long a barrel lasts. Don't "hot rod" your loads and keep the barrel cool and you'll be fine. If shooting suppressed I'd lean 308 over anything 6.5.
 
I like 308 Win because I’m boring, and based on your desires and if suppressed is in the mix definitely .308 Win.

The twist rate should be a big consideration for you. I would go with a 1:10, it’ll stabalize longer bullets for some distance and heavy for good suppressed performance.
 
I have both, but I'm coming more from a hunting perspective than target shooting. With factory rifles and loads I'd bet the 6.5 will be more accurate, but if you're going with a good aftermarket barrel and handloads there should be no difference. Out to 400ish yards they both do the same thing as either a hunting or target round, with a very slight edge in favor of the 6.5. The farther you get past 400 the more the edge swings to the 6.5 CM.

From all I've read barrel life will be about double for the 308, but I think you'll get more than your estimate with both. The 6.5 recoil is closer to 243 than 308 even if you're comparing 6.5/140's to .308/150's. But since you'll have to shoot heavier 180-190 gr bullets in a 308 to even come close to the performance you'll get with 140-150 gr 6.5 bullets there is a noticeable difference in recoil. As a hunting round it isn't a huge difference. But after a day of 50-100 rounds down range you'll notice the recoil. Of course in a heavier target rifle neither is particularly hard kicking.

Either would be a good choice, but based on your post it sounds like 308 might make more sense for you. It will take me a long time to shoot out a 6.5 barrel, but it sounds like you shoot enough for it to be a consideration. Based solely on barrel life I think 308 is your best option. But otherwise I still think the 6.5 is the slightly better round. And if you ever decide to start shooting at longer ranges it is a lot better round.
 
Depending what you call not super long distance, a 7.62x39 or 6.5 Grendel may be a good option.
I definitely like the 6.5 mm over .308 for targets because recoil is less.
 
Missed that it was a long action until I read troys post. In that case I would stick with a long action cartridge. And my cartridge of choice which has nothing to do with your desires would be 280ai.

But the long action would afford you the ability to load long in the 308 which would be nice.
 
Missed that it was a long action until I read troys post. In that case I would stick with a long action cartridge. And my cartridge of choice which has nothing to do with your desires would be 280ai.

But the long action would afford you the ability to load long in the 308 which would be nice.
the action he has will help with what cartridge to make it. if i rebarrel my 1909 argentine mauser, 280ai is very tempting over the 7x57 or the AI's.
 
I already have a grendel in an AR that I hunt with. This is one of those guns I don't NEED, but since I already have the left handed action in a lovely fajen stock with a trigger in the ounces territory I hate to just let it go. It would be more of a target rifle. I bought it used when I was much younger and didnt' realize the 257ai could be a barrel burner, and the barrel was probably mostly shot out at that time.

I have kind of been eyeballing this blank http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/rxs3010-27-308-cal-1-20-od-416ss-1-10-turned-bbl-blank/#reviews
this one has appeal as well, but the twist is kind of slow and I don't think it has a large enough diameter [I have a savage 110 action with shouldered barrel installed. (before you chime in with a comment about just using a prefit, my savage is a pre-66 gun with a different bolt head. it looks like a remington 700 bolt with a nose that protrudes in front of the locking lugs) ] https://www.lothar-walther.com/barg...inless.308win-od-1.1-l-25.1-it.-nr.-1246?c=12
 
what action do you have, a short action round may have trouble in a long action. how hands on are you, i would do a short chambered barrel and cut the chamber, that would save you over $300.
That's how I'd roll also.


I have little interest in the .308 so I'd go with either a 6.5CM, or a .260 Rem AI.
Personally I'd probably go with a fast twist .260AI running a long throat. Especially if paying someone else to do the work.
 
That's how I'd roll also.


I have little interest in the .308 so I'd go with either a 6.5CM, or a .260 Rem AI.
Personally I'd probably go with a fast twist .260AI running a long throat. Especially if paying someone else to do the work.
i am not big on 6.5s but the actin the op has i would do 6.5x57Ai you can get 6.5x57 ppu ammo for $11 a box. he want longer barrel life so a 6.5 may not be the best. the AI do offer better ware tho.
 
I have a rifle with a shot out barrel that needs a rebarrel. And ouch, rebarreling is not cheap. Looks like it is going to cost me a barrel blank ($100-400) plus 300 to have it chambered and installed. Woof.

For perspective - with the 257AI, you likely shot 2,500-3,000 rounds to burn out that old barrel, not so different than what a new 6.5 creed would offer, and only a bit less than 308win which should go 4,000. Since you are reloading, I’d expect .70c per round, reloaded for 6.5 creed or 257ai, so you’re talking about $1700+ in ammunition burned to kill that barrel. Add 20¢ to 25¢ per shot for barrel life into your cost planning, add that to your variable reloading costs, and live happy.
 
The big problem that I found when having a rifle re-barreled is the amount of time involved in getting a good gunsmith to do the work. If you tried to have it done in the spring, it's doubtful you'll have it back by August. Just sell or trade, if necessary and get a new rifle in the chambering you want. It's hard to beat picking it out and taking it to the range the same day or so.
 
Since it's a long action, I'd go with a 7x57 or 6.5x55 swede. Both have mild recoil. Both fun to shoot. You could do an ER Shaw barrel maybe slightly cheaper than a Shilen. I'd probably opt for the Shilen. Plus going this route would make you different than the 6.5 CM and 7-08 homers.
 
I had a .243 Win, Pac-Nor Stainless, pre-chambered, Super Match Grade, Contoured and Polished barrel blank installed in my Rem 700 and the barrel cost, pre-fitted to a 700, was $430, back in 2010. Installation by my master gunsmith was another $150, as I remember. The time it took to get the rifle back, with the barrel installed, was about 3 months!
 
Because it's a long action, I'd go .260 Ackley. Yes, you'll need to fire form brass, but a fast twist .260 AI would be like a 6.5 Creedmoor on steroids, and the long action would let you seat heavy bullets longer than you can in a short action. I built a .260 AI "Remage" using a barrel from McGowen and it's a shooter. But I sometimes wish I had used a long action for it.
 
Shooting full speed or subsonic suppressed? If full speed go with a 6.5 cal and have fun. I like the idea of a 6.5x55 or the 260 with a long throat for heavies.

If shooting subsonic, just go 308, there is lots of good data and you can easily play with it supersonic as well.
 
You never know a gunsmith’s schedule until you ask.

I had 4 barrels done for 2 actions in January, my smith had everything for 10 days on the nose. I asked in December if he had any room, he did, so I dropped them off when appropriate. I shot my deer with one of the rifles only a few weeks before, and shot a match with it a couple weeks after.
 
Great idea, and I don't even like 270, but I bet those recoil a little more than a 308. Any Idea what these bullets cost?

Well...

MidwayUSA has'em on clearance for $0.50/pop and currently free shipping.

Shouldn't be any worse than a 30-06/ 180 gr.

Would think that a full load of RL-26 would drive'em at ~ 2800 fps/24" Bbl.




GR
 
Oh I'm liking the .270 AI 1-8" idea , or better yet a .270 WSM 1-8" twist :) But my .270 WSM has a long way to go , it is my go to , know it's sighted in ready to go hunting gun up to Elk ( but Elk I go to the .375 weatherby these days as Elk hunts for me are few and far between :( ) replacing my got at 18 years of age 1951 Winchester Model 70 .270 with a 4x Unertl "Hawk" with two dots and cross hairs I got when I was 18 for a graduation present from my favorite Uncle Gil . .
However here is how I thought out of the box when the barrel on my trade in Salinas PD PSS .308 sniper I got cheap a year or two ago wouldn't group Federal gold match much under 1" from me or anybody, after a Timney trigger , skim coat the aluminum chassis lap bore and the crown. I did not gauge the barrel but my son's crazy "drive the patch down the bore" cleaning method I let him use on my other .308s go down the barrel a lot easier :( . ' Soooo I found on Ebay a lot of Take off model 700 barrels, quite a few "Brand new only fired at factory " at a decent price if you know how to auction. My son convinced me to go 6.5 Creedmore to match our 6.5 Creed AR-10 upper he is in love with . So I was able to buy a Brand New Remington factory 700 SStainless takeoff only fired at the factory from a custom 700 builder 6.5 MM Creedmore 1-8" 5R rifling Varmint weight (which will go right into my PSS ) 22" and threaded 5/8" by 28 with thread protector for $215 + $20 shipping ! I will polish the chamber and ramp real carefully and use my go /no go .308 family Wilson gauges I used for my AR 10 builds and FAL builds and Rem 600 builds and using a new Original Remington Recoil shoulder ring for $10 on fleabay , I will get out the old rusty Remington 700 Jaws for my old Barrel vise and pad up the giant vise Jaws that slides into my bumper hitch I used to use for truck roadside service and screw her in :)
I recommend you get a LA 700 (new if possible) take off, I saw a new Factory one for .300 weatherby , 1-10 " cheap was $150 . : Or maybe .25-06 AI which is outstanding ! Or since your in it cheap ; .26 Nosler. Bet it won't take over a month to find what you want :)
Here is a 6.5 Creed pretty much like mine , would work on your LA
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remington-...204222?hash=item261c0a737e:g:4dAAAOSwTfBc0Iy4
 
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