61 Navies: Which is normal?

[ATW525]

So, I picked up a pair of 1861 Navy replicas recently, and both are Cimarron imported Ubertis, and are exactly ten seriel numbers apart. They look and feel pretty much identical, until it comes time to disassemble them.

One of them (XXXX01) disassembles easily by hand with no tools. I can push the spring on the wedge down easily with my thumb, pop it out and then the barrel slides off right of the frame. Reassembly is just as easy.

The second (XXXX11) disassembles only with considerable coaxing. I need a hammer and soft plastic punch to free the wedge, and then I need to sharply work the loading lever against the cylinder face to push the barrel off the frame. Reassembly requires tapping the barrel back in place with a soft plastic punch and hammer, and then tapping the wedge back in using a similiar method.

XXXX11 was also missing a barrel pin, which gives me significant concerns about the quality control at Cimarron Firearms. However, this doesn't appear in any way related to the difference in ease of disassembly between these two guns.

So, I'm wondering which experience (not counting the missing barrel pin) would be considered "normal" for a Colt style cap and ball pistol?

 

[Macmac]

If I understand xxxxII is missing the barrel wedge. Other wise I'ld say this one is the more normal of the 2.

xxxx1 seems a bit too loose, but that will change in use probably.

What do you mean missing a barrel pin? One of the small pins in the frame to locate the barrel to the frame? This must be it, but I am not sure.

 

[ATW525]

If I understand xxxxII is missing the barrel wedge.

Barrel pin, the wedge is fine.

What do you mean missing a barrel pin? One of the small pins in the frame to locate the barrel to the frame? This must be it, but I am not sure.

Yes, that is exactly what I mean. XXXX11 came with only one of the pins, and an empty hole where the other should be. I already ordered one from VTI, so it's not a huge deal (other than the fact that a brand new gun should probably have all the parts).

I actually took off the remaining pin, tapped the barrel back on and rotated back and forth a few times around the center pin. This seems to have loosened the fit to the point where I no longer need the loading lever to pop the barrel off (or a hammer and punch to put it back on), though it's notably tighter than the other pistol.

 

[Macmac]

I can see how a small pin like that didn't get placed in.. it should not have left the factory that way, but life happens..

Most of the time a barrel pin is the shaft the clyinder rides on, so I was pretty well confused..

I can't say as i know the proper term for these alingment pins though.

It is typical for most anything new and not custom built to have a few minor fitting flaws..

There isn't much in the way of really fixing this problem other than doing it yourself and or just letting time and wear and tear do it.

Most machine shops create items that go for sale with chips, scratches and burrs.

This isn't 1920 anymore where a real craftmans takes pride in what he does and so not much has that glass action work like there used to be pre WW-II.

A little de-burring goes a long way to get familar with your new gun related item, and in normal use the devices all get deburred.

Seems like you found one of them ol burrs too.

If you can get the other pin out and or if you can send a paper clip down the holes you can make a pin from what ever nails come closest to fitting. maybe a number 6 or 4 finish nail by my best guess..

 

[pohill]

The importers of these guns (Taylors, Traditions, etc) keep track of the serial numbers and they warranty them for a year. If you contact them, they should offer to repair the gun, replace missing or broken parts, or replace the gun if need be. I've done it (I have never dealt with the store/company where I bought the guns). The pins are no big deal, correct, but you should not have to pay for them or the shipping involved.
And, in my opinion, a tight wedge is much better than a loose wedge. Wedges will loosen over time, but if you start with a loose wedge, you might have to shim the arbor slot to get a tight barrel/frame connection.

 

[Coyote Hunter]

One of the frame pins was loose in my Uberti '51 form the first day. I noticed it missing the first time I disassembled it, and the found it laying on the table. The next time, I noticed one was still in the frame, and the other was attached to the barrel assembly. The third time I forgot about it, and scrubbed the gun down in the sink in hot soapy water. I think it went down the drain :banghead:.

So I just have one now, and shoot the heck out of the gun. It doesn't hurt it.
CH

 

[ATW525]

Most of the time a barrel pin is the shaft the clyinder rides on, so I was pretty well confused..

I can't say as i know the proper term for these alingment pins though.

I took the term from the VTI gun parts website when I ordered the replacement. They reffered to the large pin the cylinder rotates around as a "base pin" and the little pins as "barrel pins".

The importers of these guns (Taylors, Traditions, etc) keep track of the serial numbers and they warranty them for a year. If you contact them, they should offer to repair the gun, replace missing or broken parts, or replace the gun if need be.

I actually read their policy prior to ordering a replacement part. I decided it was easier to order the part and do it myself.

And, in my opinion, a tight wedge is much better than a loose wedge. Wedges will loosen over time, but if you start with a loose wedge, you might have to shim the arbor slot to get a tight barrel/frame connection.

It makes sense, but I'll see how it holds to up to shooting first. For the moment I've switched wedges and I'm happy with the results. Neither one disassembles easily with thumb pressure, but niether requires excessive amounts of force, either.

I guess I'm just more of a "do-it-yourself" kind of person.

So I just have one now, and shoot the heck out of the gun. It doesn't hurt it.

Good to know! I haven't had a chance to shoot mine yet, and I won't until next month when I get my new house in northern NH.

 

[BHP FAN]

I had an ASM 1860 Army that one pin always stayed in the barrel assy. and one pin stayed in the frame.the one in the barrel assy. finally got lost,and I made another out of a nail.

 

[Macmac]

Well when it comes be ready with a drop of locktite.. add a dob into the hole and drive the pin with a a hard wood drift. Wipe the excess off and go have fun. You won't loose yours down the drain...

 

[ATW525]

Well when it comes be ready with a drop of locktite.. add a dob into the hole and drive the pin with a a hard wood drift. Wipe the excess off and go have fun. You won't loose yours down the drain...

Sounds like sound advice. I can't see any reason for removing them in the future, so might as well make them permanent.