I recently bought a new 625JM. I handed the gun to a gunsmith for a trigger job. I am working on a load that won't lead but gives me great accuracy. I have had a number of solid hammer strikes but no ignition of the round. This occurs about once every 50 rounds or so. I can get the round to go off if I keep cycling the cylinder for a second hammer strike. I am not familiar with moon clips, and I am wondering if the minor play they present may be causing this problem. Is there a correct side to load the bullet on? One side has a chamfer and the other side is very flat. I am using Winchester primers. They appear to be flush. The strike appears to be deep. What could be my problem?
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625 JM ignition issue
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
No, there is no "correct" side to a moon clip. Any difference is due to the stamping die leaving a rolled edge on the top side and a sharper edge on the bottom side.
You say your primers are "flush".
That means they are not completely seated in the primer pocket. Primers must be completely seated and below flush until they bottom out, and you can feel them bottom out.
If they are not fully seated, firing pin energy cannot crush the primer compound against the anvil the first hit.
It also may be the gunsmith over-did the trigger job and lightened the mainspring.
Or more likely, backed out the strain screw or cut it off to lighten the pull.
Take the grips off and see if the strain screw in the front of the grip frame is fully tightened.
If it isn't, tighten it fully.
If it is tight already, he may have cut it off. You need to ask him.
If he cut it off, you need a new strain screw, on him.
BTW: S&W no longer chambers the .45 ACP revolvers to work without moon clips.
If you try to load loose rounds like you could do in the older 1917's, 25's and 625's, you will get misfires due to excess headspace without the clips to support the rounds.
rc
You say your primers are "flush".
That means they are not completely seated in the primer pocket. Primers must be completely seated and below flush until they bottom out, and you can feel them bottom out.
If they are not fully seated, firing pin energy cannot crush the primer compound against the anvil the first hit.
It also may be the gunsmith over-did the trigger job and lightened the mainspring.
Or more likely, backed out the strain screw or cut it off to lighten the pull.
Take the grips off and see if the strain screw in the front of the grip frame is fully tightened.
If it isn't, tighten it fully.
If it is tight already, he may have cut it off. You need to ask him.
If he cut it off, you need a new strain screw, on him.
BTW: S&W no longer chambers the .45 ACP revolvers to work without moon clips.
If you try to load loose rounds like you could do in the older 1917's, 25's and 625's, you will get misfires due to excess headspace without the clips to support the rounds.
rc
BlindJustice
Member
Most on the S&W list recommend Federal primers.
Is your main spring at full strength and not backed off
by the gunsmith? Seems deep strikes would indicate
this is not the case.
What kind of moon clips are you using? I've got the
steel ones from Wilson Combat some blued some
with the nickel wash, but they are the same on
each side.
FWIW - I've got some Leadhead "hardcast" 200 gr. SWC
loaded to 1,000 FPS - it leads the barrel some but accurate
FYI - Cylinder & Slide offers a firing pin that is a bit longer
however, I have read of some breakage with them, a gun smith
in Calif. also offers one that is better, Randy Lee. for about
$13
Randall - 625-8 5" Bbl.
Is your main spring at full strength and not backed off
by the gunsmith? Seems deep strikes would indicate
this is not the case.
What kind of moon clips are you using? I've got the
steel ones from Wilson Combat some blued some
with the nickel wash, but they are the same on
each side.
FWIW - I've got some Leadhead "hardcast" 200 gr. SWC
loaded to 1,000 FPS - it leads the barrel some but accurate
FYI - Cylinder & Slide offers a firing pin that is a bit longer
however, I have read of some breakage with them, a gun smith
in Calif. also offers one that is better, Randy Lee. for about
$13
Randall - 625-8 5" Bbl.
Chuck Perry
Member
I have the Cylinder and Slide extra long FP in my 625-8 and have had no problems. I use only Winchester primers. I most often shoot with moon clips, but I have had no problems using the gun without them.
While it could be your action job, I think the advice about primer seating seems to make the most sense from the way that you have described the malfunction.
While it could be your action job, I think the advice about primer seating seems to make the most sense from the way that you have described the malfunction.
Second on the C&S long firing pin. The frame mounted pin makes it really easy to change.
The chambers of the newer S&W 45 ACP revos are cut longer. Not sure why. To add insult to injury, .45 ACP brass tends to vary a lot in overall length. The combination of a long chamber, short case and short, factory firing pin with a lightened action spells misfire. Check the strain screw, and consider replacing the firing pin.
The chambers of the newer S&W 45 ACP revos are cut longer. Not sure why. To add insult to injury, .45 ACP brass tends to vary a lot in overall length. The combination of a long chamber, short case and short, factory firing pin with a lightened action spells misfire. Check the strain screw, and consider replacing the firing pin.
moxie
Member
A very nice practice round for the 625 is a hard cast 230 grain round nose lead (RNL) bullet over 5.1 grains Unique. Light taper crimp. In my experience the best primer is the cheapest one you can find.
I will try out your suggestions next week
Thanks to all for the advice. I am pretty sure the primers are seated correctly. I have never had any primer problems with any of my handloads. I did check the strain screw and it did turn in a bit. It is now tighter than it was and I will shoot next week and report back. I do get some leading with my current loads but it is at the forcing cone area and it is very slight. Still, it is a chore to get clean. Now I am using a Missouri soft bullseye #1 200 gr. SWC. The loads are 3.7 bullseye & 4.7 231. Both are very accurate and plesant to shoot.
Thanks to all for the advice. I am pretty sure the primers are seated correctly. I have never had any primer problems with any of my handloads. I did check the strain screw and it did turn in a bit. It is now tighter than it was and I will shoot next week and report back. I do get some leading with my current loads but it is at the forcing cone area and it is very slight. Still, it is a chore to get clean. Now I am using a Missouri soft bullseye #1 200 gr. SWC. The loads are 3.7 bullseye & 4.7 231. Both are very accurate and plesant to shoot.
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