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Dariaki92x
Member
Thanks everybody guys, always helpful. Appreciate it
627 Performance center scratch removal
- Thread starter Dariaki92x
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Dariaki92x
Member
Eheheh...too bad this saying is quite popular because of the widespread code of silence in southern Italy where the mafias have tentacles everywhereWhenever you fix those you will scratch it again and probably worse. I think that is a law of nature.
By the way, love this saying. So true.
Dan-O
Member
I’d rub it with some oil, diesel, eds red, etc.
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Dariaki92x
Member
I'll give it a try
Riomouse911
Member
I bead blasted a 686+ .357 magnum many years ago. The finish will show little dings and scratches, but they’re not as noticeable as they are on highly polished nickel or stainless finishes.
Mine has little scratches from holster snaps and speed loaders. My advice is like the others; don’t sweat it. You’re not abusing the gun, every gun that is handled and shot will get these little handling scuffs over time. If you chase the scuffs by trying to buff out and cover them up all the time, you’ll drive yourself nuts trying to constantly blend your new cover up work with the old finish.
I chalk it up to honest use, each gun will acquire its own character marks like yours is getting.
Enjoy it by taking it out to shoot it, you have a fantastic revolver in a great pair of calibers (.357/.38).
Stay safe.
Mine has little scratches from holster snaps and speed loaders. My advice is like the others; don’t sweat it. You’re not abusing the gun, every gun that is handled and shot will get these little handling scuffs over time. If you chase the scuffs by trying to buff out and cover them up all the time, you’ll drive yourself nuts trying to constantly blend your new cover up work with the old finish.
I chalk it up to honest use, each gun will acquire its own character marks like yours is getting.
Enjoy it by taking it out to shoot it, you have a fantastic revolver in a great pair of calibers (.357/.38)
. Stay safe.
Eheheh...too bad this saying is quite popular because of the widespread code of silence in southern Italy where the mafias have tentacles everywhere
Omerta.
Speedo66
Member
If you think the plastic brush left some plastic on it, try acetone to dissolve it.
MikeJackmin
Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
- Messages
- 1,604
Believe it or not, toothpaste, and patience, might take off the worst of it off. It's a very mild abrasive.
My 629 looked better after I did it, not perfect but better.
My 629 looked better after I did it, not perfect but better.
Bennj
Member
Not sure I'd use a pad or sandpaper on that. Maybe try the oil idea with some patches or a piece of t shirt. Not sure what you're comfortable with, but maybe tap the cover plate off (DO NOT pry), and use a little Flitz polish? Grandparents were from Italy, Firenze is my favorite city, I could spend days in the Uffizi alone.
csirre
Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2022
- Messages
- 32
Hello,
I learnt from forums and videos that using sandpaper of the correct grit by laying the small piece of sandpaper on the scratch and some surrounding area and using small hammer to lightly hit the area repeatedly would make the matte surface matched the finish of the gun. Tried it and it did work. You only need to be patient as to very lightly hit the spot several times (more like several 10 times) and constantly shift the sandpaper as the used area will become dull little by little. I successfully removed some bright marks I made accidentally using this method.
I think the method is 80-90% perfect comparing to bead blasting. However, with bead blasting, you will need only 5 seconds for small marks. And you don't have to bead blast the whole gun, doing just small area is possible with the correct glass bead size and low air pressure. It sound a lot more difficult than it actually is. The thing is, the whole setup (air compressor, hoses, blasting gun, glass bead, and protective mask will cost you way less than $300.
One thing to look out for when doing bead blasting is that the bead is very small. It can get stuck inside the gun's internals and cause malfunction. You will be able to actually feel it when cocking the hammer. When I did my first bead blasting job, some bead entered and stuck inside the cylinders, it looked normal as the bead was invisible. However I couldn't chamber a round into any cylinder unless I really forced it in. Normal cleaning fixed this easily though.
The picture attached is of the gun I bead blasted the area of the frame between the cylinder and trigger.
Good luck,
csirre
I learnt from forums and videos that using sandpaper of the correct grit by laying the small piece of sandpaper on the scratch and some surrounding area and using small hammer to lightly hit the area repeatedly would make the matte surface matched the finish of the gun. Tried it and it did work. You only need to be patient as to very lightly hit the spot several times (more like several 10 times) and constantly shift the sandpaper as the used area will become dull little by little. I successfully removed some bright marks I made accidentally using this method.
I think the method is 80-90% perfect comparing to bead blasting. However, with bead blasting, you will need only 5 seconds for small marks. And you don't have to bead blast the whole gun, doing just small area is possible with the correct glass bead size and low air pressure. It sound a lot more difficult than it actually is. The thing is, the whole setup (air compressor, hoses, blasting gun, glass bead, and protective mask will cost you way less than $300.
One thing to look out for when doing bead blasting is that the bead is very small. It can get stuck inside the gun's internals and cause malfunction. You will be able to actually feel it when cocking the hammer. When I did my first bead blasting job, some bead entered and stuck inside the cylinders, it looked normal as the bead was invisible. However I couldn't chamber a round into any cylinder unless I really forced it in. Normal cleaning fixed this easily though.
The picture attached is of the gun I bead blasted the area of the frame between the cylinder and trigger.
Good luck,
csirre
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Dr T
Member
Don't think of them as scratches--think of them as unique, identifiable marks that are evidence of the character of the revolver. But think of a better story of how they got there than that they were made with nylon brush...
I use 3m scotchbrite pads to keep scratches off my stainless guns, three different levels of coarseness, colored black, gray and white, white being the least abrasive. Should work, cut little 1" squares. If it's too deep you can use a wet sandpaper but be careful to not make it worse, sandpaper isn't very forgiving.
mcb
Member
I have always tried to hide the old scratches with new scratches and lots of powder residue.
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