7.62x38R Nagant revolver

[dkwflight]

I just received my new looking Nagant from AIM Surplus

Since I had a set of plug gauges I tried them out on the gun
The biggest plug that would go into the muzzle is a .302". This corresponds to the lead ball I tapped into the muzzle.
>302 on the rifling and .311 in the grooves.
I know some are using .311" bullets and some complain the cases are bulged and cannot be chambered.
I think a .308 - .309" bullet will upset into the rifling grooves OK.

The cylinders took a .333" plug except for two that had small burrs at the muzzle end of the chamber. I was able to work the burs out easily and now the .333" plug will go through the chambers OK
This makes me think the gun was unshot.

I found pitting under the grips so this tells me the gun is a reblue. Nicely done.
The Star and arrow are crisp and the date inscribed is 1929 Making this gun a product of the tulia factory.

I will be sending for a set of dies for the Privi Partizan brass


Some posts say the 30 carbine dies will work. The Nagant cases new measure
.388 on the rim
.350" just above the rim and
.330" just at the factory crimp so ther is a taper in the new cases and cylinder..
The outside of the mouth .278
A fired case mouth will take a .304" plug due to spring back of the brass.

 

[Dmitri Popov]

Bought one cheap a while back, traded it off at a decent profit. Still regret it though. Been eye-ballin' one at my LGS, superb little example, but too high for my tastes/budget.

What is yours? SAO or DA/SA?

 

[Onmilo]

I use Lee 7.62X38R dies with a .311 expander plug.
These dies have been redimensioned to load actual Nagant cases now, the original versions were designed to make cartridges from .32/20 Winchester brass.
You should use a .30 Carbine seater stem if you have the old style Lee dies and plan to use Nagant brass.
The new version doesn't seem to have any problems seating bullets to correct depth in the Nagant cases.

They still come with a .308 expander which will work fine if your gun will shoot .308 bullets accurately, mine does not.
I have been hoarding Hornady .32/.311 85 & 100 grain jacketed hollowpoints and using Winchester 231 & Hodgdon HP38 powders.
Grab the powders when you can find them too.

 

[Bigdog57]

I have the older Lee die set, and load cast .32 bullets (both factory and a buddy's hand cast). I have used .32JHP also with good results. I favor Red Dot and Bullseye powders (my standards).
I do need a longer seating stem, as I have mine set to max and can barely clear the front of the cylinder. Will try that from my .30Carbine die.
I love this little gun. Cheaper to reload for now than finding .22LR. Fairly decent accuracy and decent power with the right load.
I like it's quaint Old World looks too. It never fails to generate some interest at the range! It's like a bulldog puppy, so ugly it's cute!

 

[Gaucho Gringo]

Has anyone tried loading a .312 wadcutter for this revolver? Seems like it might work well for this gun..

 

[Onmilo]

Graf & Sons out of Missouri usually has .311 plated wadcutters for sale that are supposed to be the bee's knees for loading the Nagant revolver.
Haven't tried them yet but I can tell you to avoid the swaged Hornady wadcutters.
The will lead very bad and very quick when fired at Nagant velocities.

 

[Stainz]

Starline briefly made a shortened Nagant brass case, but even it would tear at the mouth during reloading. The shorter, ie don't bridge the b/c gap, .32-20 cases, sized in an M1 Carbine carbide sizer, work best - after some initial modification. I take .010" off the rim thickness (Some folks modify the breech block!) and .024" off the rim OD, using a Taig micro-lathe. I modified 300 new .32-20 cases... once! I now suggest just buying the aftermarket Serbian Nagant ammo (Grafs and Midway carried them.), as my favorite bullet, the Meister .312-.313" 100 gr LDEWC, seems to be no longer available.

About shooting straightwalled ammo - like the .32 S&WL and .32 H&RM rounds - don't! The cases will swell and possibly tear as they fill the chambers upon firing. The cases won't be reloadable, even if they don't burst.

Still, it's a neat conversation piece for the range ("Keep pulling that trigger... they really are DA-capable!"). I got my C&R ffl just for my Nagant revolvers - and remember buying three nice ones - and screwdriver, cleaning rod, lanyard, and holster - shipped to my door - for less than $200 total. Interesting piece of Victorian-era engineering.



Try the 1895 Nagant revolver sub-forum at Gunboards for more info.

Stainz

 

[hemiram]

I thought mine was a reblue, it looked so good, but a friend looked at it and said if it was, it was the best he had ever seen, all the lettering is very sharp, and there is no pitting anywhere, it looks great for 85 years old. Neither one of us thought it had ever been fired. I bought some ammo and it shot ok, definitely tight though, it took some serious pressure to shoot DA.

 

[MagnumDweeb]

I occassionally get a small hankering for these guns but between the lack of performance, pain in the neck performance, pain in the neck to find cheap ammo, and other options as fun guns, I can't summon the courage to buy one.

Honestly, my interest in these guns is what got me into cap and ball. Cheaper ammo, easier to operate (granted more dangerous), and better ballistic performance for the most part.

 

[krs]

I've had one of those for years and bought a .32 acp conversion cylinder for it when I bought it. Converted it and fired maybe 25 rounds in my yard until deciding it was more trouble/hassle than it was worth.

But back then theere wasn't any ammo for it, or brass either. Now that there is maybe I'll order a box of storebought and convert the sucker back to stock so I can give it a chance to redeem itself.

They're all reblued when we get them. Whatever Russian arsenal it is that preps old guns for international sales does a good job, most of them look new.