80's J frame S&W 686 in 357mag over spins on rapid fire

[apowell]

I have a older 1980's era J frame stainless S&W 686 in MAG that over spins after 3 or so quick shots (bang-bang-bang-click). Checking after the failure reveals that the cylinder has over spun and is between rounds, so the pin has missed the primer. It is consistent, and doesn't appear to be related to a particular hole in the cylinder. It happens clean or dirty, hot or cold, cloudy or sunny. Also, I only shoot factory loads, and it happens with multiple brands as well. It never does this during slow fire, only quick/rapid fire.

From reading similar postings, I'm thinking timing issue, but I don't have the foggiest on how that would be addressed.

I would like to try and fix it myself. I don't shoot this gun often, but it is sentimental (my first gun purchase with my own $$), and I would like it to be fully functional. Also, I would like to start doing this type of stuff myself, as I am getting back into guns/shooting after a long hiatus (It's easier to make time to play with your toys when your wife has decided to get her CHL and going the team).

Any suggestions on resolving this?

Thanks,
Adon

 

[gfen]

I had the EXACT same problem in an older .38spl J frame.

Everyone's first suggestion was a deep, deep cleaning. I used aerosol brake cleaner, pulled the side plate off and hosed it down several times over.

It was a short lived victory, as it only timed properly for a few minutes after the initial cleaning.

Sent it back to S&W, and they replaced the cylinder stop spring. That's the wee tiny spring that pushes the cylinder stop into the cylinder. I would see if the stops in the cylinder are worn, or if the stop itself that gets pushed into them is battered and worn. Either of them, plus the spring, could cause the problem.

 

[model 649]

Yup, a 'smith is called for. Sounds like the bolt is missing the notch on the cylinder. Maybe a worn spring, no lube there, worn cylinder notches, worn bolt, or some combination of these things. Some jobs are best left to professionals if one is unsure.
Josh

 

[MNgoldenbear]

Definitely sounds like sending it to a 'smith or the factory would be called for. Unless you're pretty familiar with the workings, doing this kind of adjustment/repair on a revolver is probably not a DIY type job. Have a M-29 that I got used that would open when shot one-handed. (Only found this out preparing to shoot an IPSC standard with it. If you get the chance to shoot .44 Mag rapidly, weak-hand, for score -- PASS!) Nothing was bumping the cylinder latch during firing, but the problem persisted. Sent back to S&W and I believe they replaced a couple of springs (at least one let the inertia of the latch open the cylinder in recoil).

Curious. I thought the 686 was an L-frame. I have one from the early 90's, and it is built on the L frame, and was supposed to have descended from designs built on the K frame. Never heard of one built on a J frame.

 

[Brian Williams]

Call S&W 18003310852 it might be still in warranty

 

[Starter52]

Hey guys, isn't the S&W Model 686 an L frame gun?

 

[asknight]

Hey guys, isn't the S&W Model 686 an L frame gun?

Indeed it is.

Also, S&W is back honoring a lifetime warranty on their products. Last year I sent in my 686 (6", definitely L frame) for a hammer nose bushing replacement. I expected to be charged out the nose, but was sent the gun back fully fixed with a warranty repair sheet. They also did a recall/repair that I am not certain what is(faulty memory), as they added a M to the area near the model # and serial under the crane.

We can all agree that the 686' have the same model numbering scheme as all others (i.e., 686, 686-1, 686-2, etc). One thing I've not yet understood is that while mine is a plain-jane 686, it has a crush fit barrel unlike the earlier two generations that were threaded/screwed, or recessed/pinned. Does anyone have any info on when S&W went from 686 to 686-1, and beyond... and specifically what changes were made?