870 Stock Project Question...Refinishing

[Edward429451]

I stripped, stained and laquered my stock this weekend while the metals out getting refinished...

The stain went on great, easy and looks beatiful. When I laquered it yesterday with multiple light coats from a spray can...It went great and looks awesome from a distance, but today when I look reeal close at it I see the slightest uh, blotchiness in the dry laquer I guess is a good way to describe it. It just doesn't have the super smooth high gloss that factory laquer does, it's a little...textured looking. Very minor.

My buddy's telling me to hit it very lightly with some superfine sand paper and it'll disappear. I'm afraid of screwing up my work and think maybe if I break out the minwax that it'll smooth out. He says wax is for unlaquered wood and it wont help.

Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[CWatson]

After it cured for a week I would go over it with super fine wet sandpaper.Then car polish and then some wax.Did the same thing on a Mossberg stock a couple years ago and ir smoothed out the "orange peel"look it had.CW

 

[Edward429451]

The "orange peel" look, exactly.

Cure for a week, thanks for mentioning that. I'm a little anxious and probably needed to hear that!

This is uncharted territory so I'm kinda feeling my way along. I appreciate the input.

Got a grit reccommendation? 180?

 

[HSMITH]

Edward, 400 paper, then some 600 wet and then some 800 wet paper. The 400 is used to get the finish flat, then the 600 and 800 make it shine. If you want a super gloss "deep" finish hit it with some 1200 and then 2000 paper, both need to be wet with a little flowing water or they will clog instantly. Rubbing compound for your car can be used instead but you may have to buy a superfine glaze to get the finest swirls out that you can get from most rubbing compounds. Any auto parts store that carries automotive paint will have the fine papers and the glazes you will need.

CW is right too, it needs to fully cure for the best results. It needs to stay warm for a week or so, 70* + is best.

 

[Edward429451]

Whoa, I's sure glad I asked the grit question!! I'da been startin over I think.

Restaining this thing has proven to be 10X easier than painting with 1000X better results.

Note to self: Don't ask construction guys how to stain & laquer (12 hrs good 24 better to cure!) They're on the clock, production oriented, and don't have to live with it.



Big thanks.

 

[romulus]

After wet sanding with fine grit paper, rub it down with rottenstone. It helps remove the sanding marks.

 

[Sunray]

Lacquer? EEEWWW!!! Puke. Anytime it gets scratched it'll stand out like a sore thumb. Lacquer is not for gun stocks. Oil is. Tung oil at that. No waxes either. Geez, it might as well be plastic.

 

[Edward429451]

Where were you last weekend?

Oh well. It is coming out good even if not the best choice in laquer.

 

[Edward429451]

It's done!! The powdercoat is some thick stuff. Had lots of dremeling and polishing to do to get it as slick as it was before, took awhile. The triggergroup that I thought would be a problem to put back together was not a problem at all. The exploded view in the owners manual made it about a half hour job. I guess I'm going skeet shooting this weekend to put a couple hundred rounds through it. The finish isn't perfect but its a working SG so that don't matter, at least it's all a uniform color. Scuse my lack of photography skills...

 

[HSMITH]

Looks good Edward!

They get better and better each time too, so don't hesitate to start another one.

 

[Edward429451]

I might just do that. It took about 6 brushes worth of stain so I have most of the pint left. I had the long vent rib barrel done in black chrome also...looks mighty interesting.

Maybe I'll see if I can get some better pics with better lighting if I get the chance.

 

[MCNamVet]

Edward, Nice job for laquer. I've used Tru-Oil since the '80s when I used to make replacement and custom stocks and handgun grips. I've been a woodworker for 35 years and have never found a finish as durable and good looking. I've been doing stock and grip refinishing jobs with it ever since. Attached is a shot of an old $75.00 pawn shop Remington Mowhawk 48. You wouldn't believe the condition this gun was in before the strip and refinish and a little cold bluing and a few add on tactical accessories..Best Wishes

 

[redneck]

First off, nice job it looks great!

For the future, think oil finish. Its more durable and to me, looks much nicer although your stock did turn out rather nice instead of the "plastic" look you get sometimes.

If you do use lacquer on another, sand between coats with 320 the first time (LIGHTLY) and then 400 grit each subsequent time till the last coat, which you can use ultra fine steel wool on or buff it with a rag. It will make the finish much smoother with less work

 

[Edward429451]

Hey thanks guys. I appreciate the kind words since I am an amatur at this. I put like 5 superthin coats of laquer on it, and have been told that it wasnt enough. I stopped anyway cause I didn't want to mess it up and have to start over and I like the non plasticized look too. Felt like...better quit while I'm ahead...



I'm extremely pleased with the results. My old 10/22 stock is kicking around here somewhere having long since been replaced with a Butler Creek folder, maybe I'll redo it and try tru oil on it instead and see how it comes out. Does tru oil dry hard?

 

[Clemson]

TruOil will cure harder than woodpecker lips.

 

[Edward429451]

Truoil it is then for the next one.

Oh my aching shoulder but I ran an assortment of loads through it today. 4 different kinds of slugs, 3 kinds of buckshot, heavy game loads and some trap loads. It purred right along cept for 4 Brenneke type slugs which gave harder than normal extraction, but no big deal, I just wont use them slugs anymore and stick to the foster types.

I gots my SG back and its better than ever! I am a happy camper.