A little more eye relief

[BarboursvilleBill]

I can continue with this setup as I have it, but where I make my cheek weld, the eye relief is just on the border; that is, if I move forward, the little round circles appear; if I move backwards the full focus is good for another 3/8 inch.

These are Talley integrated mount/rings I ordered directly from Weatherby, and nice and solid, and light. As can be seen, the clearance is real close between the power dial and the rear ring.

Any suggestions?

 

[1stmarine]

Hi,
I would follow this simple procedure. If you see you need a cheek raiser do that first.
Also adjust the ocular piece of the scope to your eyes. This is always first step including when evaluating
scopes at the store one wants to buy. We all have different set of eyes and our own eyes are the most critical
component of the optical system.
Get comfortably on the gun and close your eyes. Get a feeling for it with a good position and nice feel to it.
Then open your eyes. This is where the scope focus should be. If it is not, you have to move the scope, perhaps adapt the ergonomics,
the mounts, and adjust scope. If necessary you might add a comfortable cheek raiser and replace rings and
even scope. Repeat the process.
This is why normally after ordering the rifle one goes and looks through different scopes that meet the
requirements and measures where the scope should go using some sort of temporary support and masking
tape. Then the last thing is to order the rings with the dimensions measured from the fitting session.
Like a custom made suit the rifle and options are put together to fit you and not the other way around.
I hope this makes sense.

 

[Sam1911]

Probably too simple a suggestion to be practical () but i'd say it looks like the rear of that base is very squared off, and it could easily be machined off on a 45 deg. angle which would let it clear the adjustment ring and let you move the scope forward 1/8" or 3/16" until the ring itself is resting against the part of the tube that swells out for the adjusting ring.

It would be about a minute's work on a mill, or 10 minutes careful work with a file without even taking it off the rifle.

 

[Skylerbone]

Egads that's a long eyepiece! Any chance of a scope replacement in your near future? I am not partial to Truglow, but I understand if replacement is not an option.

1. Go with what Sam1911 suggested or
2. If you have a slightly longer LOP than the factory stock is cut for get a thicker recoil pad or
3. Do both if it helps.

 

[jmr40]

You are talking about "eye box" more than "eye relief", even though they are somewhat related. Eye relief is the maximum distance the eyepiece can be from your eye and still allow you to see through the scope. Eye box is the range of distance you have where you can see through the scope.

Some scopes, regardless of eye relief, require an almost exact distance between your eye and the eye piece or you can't see through the scope. Leupold scopes tend to be very forgiving with eye box and they tend to have generous eye relief. You can mount the rifle, move your head back and forth quite a distance and still see through the scope. But I also have some scopes that have much less eye relief, yet the exact distance from the eye piece isn't that critical.

And if it will help it won't hurt a thing to grind or file a bit off the base for more room. Touch it up with a black sharpie and no one will ever notice.

 

[1stmarine]

You are talking about "eye box" more than "eye relief", even though they are somewhat related. Eye relief is the maximum distance the eyepiece can be from your eye and still allow you to see through the scope. Eye box is the range of distance you have where you can see through the scope.

That is what I was thinking. One thing is not being able to fit the scope in a more proper position and the other the eye relief that changes with magnification and might also slightly change from one person to another considering we all have different set of eyes and vision. In the later no much can be done w/o changing optics.

 

[cdb1]

EGW picatinny base and Warne, Burris, etc. rings.

What cartridge is the rifle chambered for? There is a good chance that scope will give up the ghost pretty quick on a heavier recoiling rifle. Then you could keep the rings and get a good scope with a slimmer ocular bell.

You have an excellent quality rifle, excellent quality rings and what most would consider a low quality scope.

 

[Varminterror]

Many folks call the ocular lens housing the "eye box," and then consider the range of eye relief to be a gauge of how "critical" the scope is for eye relief.

I have never once heard someone refer to the critical range of eye relief as the "eye box".

 

[Skylerbone]

I think things are getting a bit muddled. Eye box refers to positioning of the shooter's eye in relation to the scope within the scope's threshold.

Eye relief is the measurement of how far away the eye CAN be with out vignetting and is usually exaggerated or at least favors the longest possible measurement.

Say you have a 1-6 X scope and eye relief is 4"-3". You will need 1" of fore and aft head positioning to move through the power range. If the threshold is considerably larger, say 1.3", then absolutely perfect positioning of your head is not AS critical as a scope with a lower threshold. Therefore your scope is said to be "forgiving" or to have a "generous eye box". Such a scope is also less critical of slight left to right positioning errors.

Taking that same scope, imagine at 1X your eye will see the full field of view through the scope whether it is positioned at 4" or 4.15" or 3.85" Now imagine at 6X that you can be slightly further away than 3", say 3 1/4" away. That means less adjustment for quicker shots and less chance of scope bite.

If all you do is punch paper with a low recoil rifle and without a timer, it won't be nearly as big a deal.

 

[BarboursvilleBill]

Thanks all, for your help.

I'm currently looking for a rear ring/mount that will extend further forward, out over the ejection port a little. Most of the 'extended' rings don't go any further than mine shown in the pic above. If I have to, I'll get a rail I guess, and ring/mounts for it. The rifle is a Weatherby Vanguard (Howa) and is said to take any Remmy 700 mounts. I've looked at Talley (which mine are) and Leupold to no avail. The scope is a TruGlo 4-16X44 with a 30mm tube.

When I sell one of my other pieces, I plan to replace the scope with a new Leupold VX-3i 8.5-25X50 LRP.

 

[cdb1]

Warne makes two different length front extensions for the Vanguard. When I use two piece bases I use Warne. Vanguard/Howa uses the same two piece bases as the Remington 700 but take a different one piece base.

The M905 is the longer extension, it's pretty long. Longer than any other I've seen.

 

[entropy]

Hi,
I would follow this simple procedure. If you see you need a cheek raiser do that first.
Also adjust the ocular piece of the scope to your eyes. This is always first step including when evaluating
scopes at the store one wants to buy. We all have different set of eyes and our own eyes are the most critical
component of the optical system.
Get comfortably on the gun and close your eyes. Get a feeling for it with a good position and nice feel to it.
Then open your eyes. This is where the scope focus should be. If it is not, you have to move the scope, perhaps adapt the ergonomics,
the mounts, and adjust scope. If necessary you might add a comfortable cheek raiser and replace rings and
even scope. Repeat the process.
This is why normally after ordering the rifle one goes and looks through different scopes that meet the
requirements and measures where the scope should go using some sort of temporary support and masking
tape. Then the last thing is to order the rings with the dimensions measured from the fitting session.
Like a custom made suit the rifle and options are put together to fit you and not the other way around.
I hope this makes sense.

That's what I did with the same mounts on my Savage Axis. They were aluminum, I just filed them down, squared them off, and put B/C Aluminum Black on them.

 

[BarboursvilleBill]

That's what I did with the same mounts on my Savage Axis. They were aluminum, I just filed them down, squared them off, and put B/C Aluminum Black on them.

There's a screw hole that comes right up almost to the front edge of the mount. I wouldn't be able to file even an 1/8" into it.

 

[Skylerbone]

I would try to make it work regardless and caution you that the Leupold is likely to (it will) require even more eye relief (needing to sit further forward still) than your TruGlo. You may need to seek the advice of current Vanguard owners but I suspect you'll have to have a 1-piece rail and Pic/Weaver rings.

 

[BarboursvilleBill]

I would try to make it work regardless and caution you that the Leupold is likely to (it will) require even more eye relief (needing to sit further forward still) than your TruGlo. You may need to seek the advice of current Vanguard owners but I suspect you'll have to have a 1-piece rail and Pic/Weaver rings.

I wanted to stick with one-piece mount/rings, but it's looking as if I'm going to need a pic rail. I already have a cantilever mount with 1/2" screws/nuts that I can adjust on it. As 1stmarine says, above:

"This is why normally after ordering the rifle one goes and looks through different scopes that meet the
requirements and measures where the scope should go using some sort of temporary support and masking
tape. Then the last thing is to order the rings with the dimensions measured from the fitting session.
Like a custom made suit the rifle and options are put together to fit you and not the other way around."

I'll be doing that as I prep for my Leupold.