About time so looking at getting reload equipment. What's needed?

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intercooler

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Not this offering but on my Bro's next buy option I am going to place an order for at least a progressive setup. He gets RCBS and I kind of like the 2000 auto-indexing.

I will start out working with a range buddy who does reloading learning the ropes. I'm hoping by year end to have all my equipment and supplies to start. With that said what are the other pieces I need.

- Scale
- Tumbler

I need some help on this that are for sure needed.

I still get a hell of a deal on factory ammo and just hope the reloading pays off after a bit even if my time is now involved.
 
Many would advise against starting on a progressive press. If you're wanting speed, I'd probably start with a turret press.

As far as what you'll need, you'll need:
Calipers
Tumbling Media & Polish
Dies

I'd also recommend a primer pocket cleaner (inexpensive), handprime (unless you're going with the progressive with an autoprime, case trimmer and case length gauge (if you're doing rifle or necked ammo), and case lube can be a good thing even if you get carbide dies.
 
Before asking this question or making any hard and fast decision about a press or equipment, buy 2 or better yet 4 reloading manuals and read them. Reloading manuals are loaded with valuable information about all aspect of handloading interspersed with their flavor of commercials. you'll get a great education on various tools and equipment and be able to frame better opinions of what you want rather than solely relying on peoples opinion.
 
daboone is spot on (and the others have good advice also)

What will you be reloading? and what are your goals? What kind of quantities?

What will you be using these for? (Long range bullseye, pistol competition-which could be silhoutte, IPSA, CASS, etc, etc etc). You don't need to know what those acronyms are, just tell us what you want to do with your bullets.

What's your budget.

You have a good start, with a mentor around. Get the ABC's of Reloading (the older printings are said to be better than recent ones, so check your local library).

Good luck. Thanks for asking our advice. We will be better equipped to help you if we know what your needs are.

Lost Sheep
 
I learn better hands-on. I come from the school of buy once when it comes to equipment and it will be just for good target loads to start with. Just a ton of FMJ or TMJ.
 
I learn better hands-on. I come from the school of buy once when it comes to equipment and it will be just for good target loads to start with. Just a ton of FMJ or TMJ.
Even a strictly hands-on learner can benefit from the way the ABC's of Reloading is written. It is a clear narrative and an easy read.

I didn't notice the variety of calibers you have on hand when I made my first post. Keep in mind that a progressive press is more difficult and expensive to swap calibers than a turret. The degree of difficulty and cost varies widely between manufacturers and even models of a given maker. So, I advise, if you load 1,000 rounds at a time before switching calibers a progressive might be OK, but if you load 100 of this and 200 of that and 50 of this other in an afternoon, a fast turret might be able to beat a progressive (with all the down time of caliber swaps). A Lee Classic Turret can swap calibers in seconds (seriously, I have done it, recently). Some progressives take 15 minutes to a half hour (I only have experience on one progressive, but I have credible reports from other users of a variety of presses). You've got some research to do in order to find the "right" press for you.

Finding the "right" press, regardless of initial cost is the right way to go. But it's tough without some practice time on various units under your belt, or a lot of research.

Good Luck

Lost Sheep
 
I'm pretty new to reloading, let me start with that and I'll share a couple things.

I have a Dillon RL 550B. It's a 4 stage press. Rated at 4-600 rounds per hour.
I have a toolhead setup for 9mm, one for .40, and one for 10mm. It takes 1 minute to change from 9mm to .40 cal as I have a powder meter on each one that's already setup.

.40 and 10mm are the same size bullet but the 10mm has a longer case. Since I haven't duplicated the toolhead and powder meter for .40 and 10mm, and I'm still pretty green, switching between these two and making my list and checking it twice takes an hour.

The short/long of it is if you're planning on doing much reloading and have some extra bucks, go the Dillon and get the extra parts. That way it's a snap!

I'm inserting a little reloading intro from Hickok45 that shows what I'm talking about.

He can get a touch long winded but this is worth watching if you're in decision making mode. JMHO

He talks abut and shows a single stage and a Dillon 550 progressive (though there are many options for the Dillon he's not using).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irC3NuIKDm4
 
I learn better hands-on. I come from the school of buy once when it comes to equipment and it will be just for good target loads to start with. Just a ton of FMJ or TMJ.
At the very least pick up a reloading manual (such as the Lee one) and read some of it. Learning better 'hands on' with reloading might leave you without hands. Just some food for thought.

How many rounds do you plan on producing per month? How much time can you dedicate to reloading?
 
Learning hands on is great. Unfortunately reloading requires reading. You need the manuals so just get them now and start reading. The Lee manual has a very good introduction section to all things reloading/casting.


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I learn better hands-on. I come from the school of buy once when it comes to equipment and it will be just for good target loads to start with. Just a ton of FMJ or TMJ.

Right, but you need to do some homework to make some educated decisions. The reloading manuals, "ABCs of Reloading" and the forum thread mentioned above have had lots of thought put into their information and do not leave anything out.

Quick answers on the forums, mine included, can leave out basic information.
 
Learning reloading hands on is easy & quick. The first time you do something wrong you will know it is wrong. I just hope you can still type for those of us that prefer to learn from others mistakes.

You don't have to buy the manuals just read one at Walmart while your waiting on your wife or pick one up from the library.
 
Once you been through the Lyman 49th Reloading Manual and ABC's you will have a better under standing. Hands on is good but you need the book knowledge too. Not everyone is an expert. So your degree of learning from someone will vary.

The old school way was to learn on a SS press. That said, if your mainly loading pistol, high volume eaters there is nothing wrong with starting on a Progressive. You just operate them like a SS press. 1 round at a time. Now depending on what your loading the use of a SS press is preferred. They still have uses after you go progressive.

The Hornady LNL-AP (5 stations) is one press that is easy to change calibers on. Std output without the brass feeder is around 300-400/hr. Add the brass feeder and you can get toward the 600/hr rate. Change over cost is tied to the LNL bushing which you can get 10 for $35. If you go with the Through Powder Expander Die the use of a the powder dispenser die means all you do is move the dispenser over. A total conversion in less than 5 min, add another 2-3 min to change primer size.

If your pockets are deep the Dillon 650 w/brass feeder is a good choice too. But it's $150-$200 more than the LNL. Conversion is more expensive too. Due to time of change over, most buy a powder dispenser for each tool head.

Reloading is only safe it you do the fine detail stuff, to make them safe. The main reason you need to read the books is to know what the fine detail is. At least you will be able to ask question to your mentor. Then you may want to check here to confirm. Don't trust every thing you see on u-tube. Some of those guys are dangerous.
 
Liked others have suggested, read the manuals and do your homework. Don't be tricked into believing you can't learn on a progressive press. If you pay attention to detail and read the manual it is as safe as any other press. I learned on a Dillon SDB and I did make a few minor mistakes in adjustments at first but I figured it out and went on producing quality pistol ammo. I now have a pair of them and they will load as much ammo as I need to keep me shooting at the range anytime I want to go. They also automatically advance each cartridge as you load it, unlike the 550B. This cuts down on the chance of a double charge.
I don't work for Dillon or sell presses, I just really like and enjoy the equipment I invested in. With normal maintainance they will last a long time and I am sure my grandson will enjoy them when I'm gone. I'm glad I spent a little more up front instead of having to upgrade later.
 
This is stright from Lee's web site:
Unlike a single stage loader, a progressive press causes many things to occur at the same time and because of this, there are many more things to monitor.
There is no reason you can't start with a progressive press, but unless you go through over 250 rounds per week, a progressive press is not really necessary. The Turret press is both less expensive and easier to set up, and (once set up) will reload up to 250 rounds an hour in experienced hands. Setting up a progressive press requires patience and attention to detail.
 
Cheap, Fast, Match Grade; pick one.

Once you decide on your NEEDS, go with your gut. You can find plenty of videos on YouTube and the net.

You will NEED a load book, so I would start there. Most are going to be similar regarding the basics and many vary a lot with load data. If you have a particular favorite bullet manufacturer, I would start with their book. Nosler, Hornady, Sierra, Barnes, etc. all make excellent products and their manuals will include their products with load data intended for their test barrels.

You will want a vibratory tumbler and media. These can be had almost anywhere, although I do recommend E.A.Brown company. You can google search them. They ship fast, prices are best I can find on tumbling products, and shipping is very reasonable.

I don't like electronic vernier calipers as battery changes are a PITA. A good set of mechanical calipers should be less than $40.

I like the RCBS 505 scale, although many alternatives are abound.

These items are what I would invest in first, before buying any type of press or components. You will always need a load manual, tumbler, calipers, and a scale.

Expect to realistically spend $700+ to get started.

Enjoy, I hope I have been helpful. Take care.
 
I beg to differ. Most emphatically.

(post #12)
Learning reloading hands on is easy & quick. The first time you do something wrong you will know it is wrong. I just hope you can still type for those of us that prefer to learn from others mistakes.

You don't have to buy the manuals just read one at Walmart while your waiting on your wife or pick one up from the library.
A good way to get yourself or someone standing off to your side badly injured, in my opinion.

Kingmnt, I am pretty sure you were being sarcastic, but it is not 100% clear. If anyone took that advice at face value, I would not sleep soundly if I had not made my comment above.

Lost Sheep
 
I thought what I was saying was clear. Since it wasn't let me clear it up. If you make a mistake the results will be a case won't feed, case will jam, case will be destroyed, bullet will stick in barrel, &/or gun will blow apart.

Even if you find someone to teach you, you should still read a proven manual so you know what they are teaching you is right.
 
kingmt, I got it.

Thanks for clarifying. What I read into your earlier post was that one would know right away (like as soon as the cartridge came out of the press) when something was wrong and I was thinking that a loader might load 50 or 100 (unknowingly defective) cartridges and take them to the range before finding out something is wrong.

Of course, it is possible to load lots of good cartridges with faulty technique before the odds catch up to you and you produce a bad one.

One can never be to careful.

Lost Sheep
 
It really depends on how much ammo you really use For me a single stage regardless or whose you choose is more than adequate. I load quite a few during load development but once I have the formula I want I crank out 50 or so to hunt with. Being that I trickle up each load for my hunting ammo there is no real benefit to a turret or a progressive.
If you are shooting a lot every week then at the very least you need a turret press. One that auto indexes will help to avoid double charges. But still keep an eye on your charges either manually or with an alarm in one of the die holes. I say this because some powders can bridge in the drop tube putting a short charge in one case and an over charge in the next one.
+1 on manuals buy them and read them twice.
Welcome
T
 
If you like to shoot and reload so you can do it more get a progressive, take a look at the brands that top shooters use, they like to shoot and their ammo has to be right.
Having a number of good reference books used to be much more important than it is today with manufacturers all having web sites with everything from machine setup to load recipes, just use the actual manufacturers sites for all load data.
Beyond that make sure you go slow pay attention and get enough powder in every case.
Unless I was only loading for bulk ammo I would also find a good solid Rock Chucker SS for small batch hand gun and rifle loading, you will get one sooner or later.
 
If I'm loading 2 I still use my progressive. I still load rifle on SS tho. One of these days I'm going to switch to progressive for 223. I was planning on useing the LNL AP for that but still haven't set it up.

Thinking of doing some for my bolt rifle on the Load Master.
 
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