Accurate DA shooting - how do you guys do it?

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Perhaps a review of Jerrys videos is in order. He places the trigger finger exactly as I described, placing the first joint right at or just slightly past the right edge of the trigger.

When he "stages," for accuracy, he puts more of his finger on the trigger, exactly the opposite of what you said.

When he uses the "finger as a triggerstop" technique, he puts the joint fully past the trigger.
 
All of the above is excellent advice. The only detail I can add is that you need to ensure that the gun fits your hand properly. With a grip that's too small or too large the gun moves around too much as you work the trigger. I find most factory target stocks too large, specifically too wide for me. On my K frame Smith I use the smaller Magna stock with a Tyler type grip filler. On my Dan Wesson Pachmayr's standard grips are perfect.

For practice I have a Crosman .177 revolver that I shoot in the yard, DA only. This has helped me a lot and is really cheap practice.
 
All of the above is excellent advice. The only detail I can add is that you need to ensure that the gun fits your hand properly. With a grip that's too small or too large the gun moves around too much as you work the trigger. I find most factory target stocks too large, specifically too wide for me. On my K frame Smith I use the smaller Magna stock with a Tyler type grip filler. On my Dan Wesson Pachmayr's standard grips are perfect.

For practice I have a Crosman .177 revolver that I shoot in the yard, DA only. This has helped me a lot and is really cheap practice.
That's a real good idea - something like a .22 revolver - not expensive - is great to learn on.
 
Staging the trigger works for some people but it takes a lot of trigger time to master. I don't think it is necessarily slower...just depends on how well you can do it. I have no problem with a 5 second plate run while staging.

The biggest skill to learn is being smooth when it comes to the revolver and DA trigger. Use as little finger on the trigger as possible, preferably just the first pad and not the first joint. Practice, practice, practice.
+1

My accuracy is much improved when staging the trigger but I'm slower. I agree on finger placement, middle of the first pad.

It really helps to have a smooth trigger pull weight with no stacking.
 
DavidE said:
Perhaps a review of Jerrys videos is in order. He places the trigger finger exactly as I described, placing the first joint right at or just slightly past the right edge of the trigger.

madcratebuilder said:
I agree on finger placement, middle of the first pad.

Personally, I don't think there's any one correct finger placement (even if it's what JM uses): The correct one is the one that allows you to establish a good grip while consistently pulling the trigger smoothly, without disrupting the sight picture. One shooter might compromise their grip, while straining (and shake) to pull a stock trigger with the pad of their finger. Another might compromise their grip while pushing the gun by using too much finger. My advice is to first establish your grip first, then let it place your finger.
 
I would agree with MrBorland:

First of all, human wrists, hands and fingers are not all identical; and neither are revolver frames and stocks. The distance between the backstrap to the trigger face can make an important difference when it comes to finger placement, as can the width and shape of the trigger face. I generally use a different technique between Colt's (stage the trigger) vs. Smith & Wesson's and Ruger's (pull straight through or "finger trigger stop" method).

In short, what's best is what works best for you. Experiment until you find out what it is.
 
OK, I'll Wade in...

#1. Grip, the gun has GOT to fit your hand.. you should establish a grip that is consistant and repeatable... it shuld be instinctive.. meaning that when you bring the sight UP to your eye level, (don't dip your head to find the sights) the sights are there.. I teach to start with eyes closed, bring the gun into position, open your eyes and you have a sight picture... you may need to slightly shift your feet to align with the target.. this takes a lot of stress off of your upper body and allows you to concentrate upon what it important... controlling the trigger...

More on the grip,, a two handed grip, with strong hand wrapping around the pistol, thumb laid down, the supporting hand should come from around the strong hand. If right handed the left hand should come from about your knuckles and drag over your right hand fingers, slightly pulling at the skin on top of your fingers until you wrap all the way around, locking your weak (left) hand thumb over the top of your right hand thumb.. Pressure, should be firm, but not fatiguing.. the majority of the gripping strength coming from your left hand. The right hand is supporting, and controlling the firearm. the lock is with the left hand, but NOT white knuckled !!!!

Start with a GOOD trigger job... the trigger should be SMOOTH,,, ribbed triggers are a hindrance... There should be no creep in the trigger, I personally do NOT like staged triggers.. should be a smooth continuous pull... vary pressure while maintaining sight picture.. as the sight drifts into alignment, increase pressure.. When the gun goes off, it should be a surprise... Exact finger placement on the trigger will vary, with speed, level of accuatcy, pistol size, trigger width, and your own hand size and comfort level... For me, finger tips do not work, sinking it in to the last knuckle doesn't work, I'm good somewhere between the 1st and 2nd knuckle..

There are drills that you can do to increase speed and fluid movement of the trigger.. I found one on you tube that is what we learned years ago..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nES4A0rd1ak&feature=related

HA HA.. I realized by looking at the poster of this video that it is none other than our own, Mr. Borland... he is good,, and he shows off a bit at the end.. Good post Mr Borland.. !!

Please note the speed, smoothness and control that can be achieved. this does not happen overnite, but it does happen, only with practice... remember, only Proper Practice makes Perfect...

Take it slow, NOBODY got this right overnite... It is a system and a platform,,

Bruce Lee once made the statement, "I do not fear the man that knows 10,000 kicks. I fear the man who has practiced one kick 10,000 times... "

Practice... Practice... Practice....
 
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HA HA.. I realized by looking at the poster of this video that it is none other than our own, Mr. Borland... he is good,, and he shows off a bit at the end..

Naw...this is showing off* :D....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmy5mkjpUNI&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Actually, both of these vids are good in that if you watch closely, they show I take extra care to establish a good grip. My finger goes where it will, but balancing the coin throughout the trigger pull was only possible if my grip was spot on. And, yes, as Cop Bob notes, a smooth action helps. ;)



*actually, I mainly made this 2nd vid to show how little a radically-bobbed hammer jars the gun upon hammer strike.
 
I started out with a copy of Ed McGivern's book, Fast And Fancy Revolver Shooting, a High Standard .22 revolver, and about 5,000 rounds of .22 LR ammo. Start slow, and work on smooth.
 
Naw...this is showing off* :D....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmy5mkjpUNI&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Actually, both of these vids are good in that if you watch closely, they show I take extra care to establish a good grip. My finger goes where it will, but balancing the coin throughout the trigger pull was only possible if my grip was spot on. And, yes, as Cop Bob notes, a smooth action helps. ;)



*actually, I mainly made this 2nd vid to show how little a radically-bobbed hammer jars the gun upon hammer strike.
Yep,Your Right, that's showing off... You make me SICK..... I couldn't do that unless I milled a slot in behind the sight to hold the quarter... Too much coffee...!

Just kidding, I'm glad that you posted these... good information and great technique...

And Yes I agree, Most revolvers I carry has a bobbed hammer, ALL of my match guns, except my service distinguished (darn rules) have bobbed hammers and the medium wide smooth triggers...

Bob.....Have Dremel Will Travel....
 
I have stated that for some reason, the large factory stocks are best (for me) when shooting DA.

I definitely prefer a very thin "Gunfighter" grip on my Ruger 3 screw. Different shooting styles. My pinkie is ALWAYS on the bottom of the grip.

The palm swell factory stocks require me "to hold on" and the swell maintains the high grip that I think is necessary on a revolver when shooting fast.
 
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