Accurizing the Mosin Nagant Rifle: A How-To Guide to Bringing Out The Accuracy of You

Status
Not open for further replies.
That's what I went out and bought. Enough to cork 100 Mosins for a few bucks.

Also, I will be shooting mine again tonight. I Moved my cork forward, added cork to the top handguard and also shimmed my recoil lug and tang, all following the instructions on the Smith-Sights website. I went with the "1 year later" article as a guide.

I will let you guys know.
 
Damn I am unreliable...

When I shoot it I will definitely let you guys know. Just been getting really busy lately. The thing is, it looks and feels good. I am excited.
 
I put this in the 'mosin club' thread but thought it might be better posted here for the cork questions.

I have a couple questions: if I am reading correct info from www.7.62x54r.net, it would appear that if the bolt, magazine floorplate, and buttplate do not have the 'prefix' letters found on the barrel (two in my case) then it is a 'forced match' done (most likely) by the refurbing armorer? Also had a couple questions about 'corking' the barrel: for those who have done it have you corked the whole length of the barrel? Or just played with small pieces in certain locations until accuracy improved? Also I saw an idea posted somewhere about using cookware grade silicone (like from one of the rubber baking sheets), anyone tried or have input on this idea? It would seem like a good alternative to cork as it would not absorb moisture, and is heat resistant but having no experience with this process myself I wanted to ask the 'experts'.

Thanks!
 
The easiest way to tell of a part has been force-matched is if the SN has been electro-penciled in. Though in some cases, they would strike out the previous SN (numbers with a line you through them) and put a new SN on in the area around it.

As far as corking, that is your call as to where you place it. It's like these rifles have a mind of their own, and you have to find the proper location or combination of locations that your rifle likes best. Further back in this thread I believe it gives a general location, I believe it's something like an inch or two always from the barrel-band closest to the muzzle. Different spots on the barreled action can be corked as well.

ETA: Keep in mind, your rifle may also benefit from free-floating. Each rifle is different, they like what they like. It's an on-going experiment, so enjoy :).

As far as the silicone sheets go, I couldn't tell ya, though doesn't sound like a bad idea. Maybe you can be the first, provided the Significant Other doesn't mind you tearing up one of these. Lol


~On The Road Again...~
 
LJ: See this is where I am a little confused. First I will state I have only seen pictures of my new mosin as I am away at work right now. But, from the pictures and description all four serials appear to be stamped there are no strike-throughs and I see no obvious signs of grinding. The only place I possibly question grinding is on the bolt and I'll have to wait until I see it in person to get a closer look. The only thing electro-penciled is:
"M91/30 Russia 7.62X54R
C.A.I. Georgia, UT
(new 10 digit SN)"
On the reciever, which would be from the importer (I think).

I'm trying to compare fonts of the stamps in the pictures I have, and they do appear different. The barrel stamp has an "ET" and a "l" style number 1 (just a straight line) in the three digit number; and the other three locations have a "1" with the 'tic' coming off the top (no bottom line).

As to the silicone I believe I will try it out, however I'll be buying one specifically for the project, much safer than crossing the wife (even though she NEVER uses it). Plus I'd like it in black not grey or red if possible.

Thanks for the input. Hopefully more will be along soon to chime in.
 
I think the prefix is usually on the barrel and the bolt, but I could be wrong. Though they could be force-matched, my Mosin has the prefix on all the serialized parts


~On The Road Again...~
 
Slipstream works real well on my Mosin-Magant 1930 Dragoon. The bolt is almost as slick as a modern rifle. Now the WD-40 has dried off the trigger group. I was able to clean and grease the trigger assembly properly. The stock trigger is acceptable when greased properly. I did go through a box of rifles to find the smoothest rifle in the box.

My rifle shot high with brown bear 203 grain ammo. I ended up taking a belt sander to the elevation slide to get the Dragoon on target. My Dragoon has not seen service since it was last refurbished. The receiver and bolt had not been cycled enough times to wear the machine marks off the contact points. I did clean up the contact points with Emory cloth.

The foregrip does not appear to be the original. It appears to be a well worn replacement - at least the the armory used another pre-war foregrip.

I was pleased with the performance of the 203gr bullet. The Mosin-Magant will hit a paper plate every time at 150 yards with open sights. It is going to be a welcome and often used addition to my hunting line up.

The serial numbers match completely on my Mosin-Nagant.

mosinweb.gif
 
Last edited:
The rifle shoots well as is. I am not one to fix things that are not broke.

My previous post was for the Mosin club thread. got into the wrong thread. I did accomplish something here. I helped prove that the right ammo improves accuracy. :)
 
Last edited:
TurtlePhish: thanks for the confirmation. That's what I thought I was finding but I wanted to make sure. So for historical / story value among my friends: when they were force-matched like this, was it any indication that they made any effort to test, ensure fit, or safe tolerances or were parts just slapped together, stamped and "shoveled out the door"?
 
Centurian22 said:
...was it any indication that they made any effort to test, ensure fit, or safe tolerances or were parts just slapped together, stamped and "shoveled out the door"?
Click to expand...

There's no reason to doubt that the Soviet armory personnel were just as competent and professional as the Americans. They were, after all, preparing for a potential doomsday event that they, no doubt, hoped to survive. And if the rifle could take out one invader in the hands of a third tier reserve unit farmer/soldier then it would be doing its job.

In all likelihood the modern day American and Russian armory personnel - and probably Chinese - are currently packing away some now trailing edge technology just as carefully. And hopefully in 50 years our offspring will be washing it out of the cosmoline to take to the range!
 
Had my first Mosin Nagant Range Day with my 1942 Tula 91/30.

928F9526-6247-4E66-A90A-1282ABD63B90-4389-000006F185AAB46E.jpg

My shoulder politely asked *me to stop after about 30-35 rounds (almost all fired from the bench). One of those shots, Just One was all it took, I forgot to snug the buttplate into my shoulder and just as the trigger broke I had barely enough to to think "oh *crap* *this is gonna hurt" and hurt it did.*

No significant issues with "sticky bolt", the case scratching that was an issue before seems to have worked itself out. I did have a few feed problems but I think these were operator error of loading the magazine. The rim of the round trying to chamber would catch on the rim of the next round under it causing the nose to dive and refuse to feed. It appears that I just need to make sure each round is stacked just forward of the one under it to prevent this.*

I did experience the forward shifting of the wooden top foregrip piece after firing a couple rounds as others have mentioned. Guess I'll have to try corking it to tighten things up a little.

Had one split case neck:

6A23E9D0-9D0C-423C-8B23-892DD2D9FEBC-4933-00000813766481D1.jpg

Is this anything to be worried about or is it relatively common among surplus ammo?*

Accuracy was a little better than I expected given the apparent condition of the rifle; having been counterbored, and the bore being insanely dirty and horribly fouled when I got it. Held well at 25yrds and 50yrds and I think the drop off of grouping at 100yrds was more my fault as there was one good grouping of 3 and another of 2 with several inches between the two groups. Even with my glasses on, at 100yards the piece of printer paper I'm aiming at is mostly covered by the sight and tough to make out.

I'm already starting to have an internal battle with myself between keeping everything "traditional" or wanting to put a long eye relief scout scope in place of the rear sight. Most likely I'll keep it original and possibly try making some peep sight stickers for my glasses to try and improve my long distance iron sight shooting.*

Thanks for viewing and any input is greatly appreciated.*
 
Centurian 22, if thats Bulgarian ammo, the neck split is rare, but not uncommon.
As well, "Forced match" occured in all arsenals, in some, and electro pencil did the work, mostly in Russia, but further refurbishments were made by the Romainians as well, and the swacked the numbers on, but without the Crylic prefix's. Most all soviet block countrys used the Mosin, and most all were refurrbed and stored, the way they were referrbed and might vary in detail, and often the way it was done indicates who did it.

Gotta love all the little marks....:D
 
I have seen those neck-splits with Albanian ammo, too.

Lotza good tips here about improving your Mosin-nagant.
 
I did have a few feed problems but I think these were operator error of loading the magazine. The rim of the round trying to chamber would catch on the rim of the next round under it causing the nose to dive and refuse to feed. It appears that I just need to make sure each round is stacked just forward of the one under it to prevent this.*
Click to expand...

This is an issue with the interruptor. If you stagger (or stair-step as it is sometimes called) the rounds, it will remedy this problem, but it means your rifle isn't functioning correctly. A slight bend in the interruptor/ejector will remedy this, though they can be easily replaced if you look around for parts. If the interruptor is working the way it should, you will never have an issue with rimlock.

I did experience the forward shifting of the wooden top foregrip piece after firing a couple rounds as others have mentioned. Guess I'll have to try corking it to tighten things up a little.
Click to expand...

Corking will work for this, as well as tightening the groups a little if corked in the right areas.

Is this anything to be worried about or is it relatively common among surplus ammo?*
Click to expand...

As far as I'm concerned, it's fairly typical in steel-cased rounds. Not every casing will do this, but steel isn't as flexible as brass is, and as it expands, sometimes you can get splits like you're seeing here. Mine does it every once-in-a-while and my Mauser does it pretty frequently with it's steel-cased stuff, too.

Lotza good tips here about improving your Mosin-nagant.
Click to expand...

I guess I should say thank you, along with the other contributors to this thread. :)
 
Tempest 455 said:
I've had the neck split with no problems.
Click to expand...

What you should really worry about is correct firing pin protrusion. Mine was too far out once and punctured primers. I've had gas come back in my face a couple times (wasn't wearing glasses, but thankfully there was a strong cross-wind and blew most of the particles away before they could hit me, but those that did sure stung). I corrected the protrusion and never had another punctured primer.


~On The Road Again...~
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

P89DCSS
  • Locked
Bedding epoxy choices?
2
Replies
30
Views
1K
Captcurt
Captcurt
D
  • Locked
Bedding a Savage Model 11 in a new stock, from Accustock
Replies
9
Views
2K
Doc7
D
D
  • Locked
Bedding a New Winchester Model 70 Extreme Weather SS
Replies
10
Views
2K
Doc7
D
M
  • Locked
Does disassembly affect point of impact?
2
Replies
39
Views
3K
ColoradoMinuteMan
ColoradoMinuteMan
W
  • Locked
Finally Bedded It
Replies
1
Views
296
jlmurphy
J
Back
Top