Additional SAR-1 Modifications

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dglockster

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After I had owned my SAR-1 for a year or so, I decided to change its look and described the process in this thread: http://concealedcarryforum.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=367.

That post showed the SAR-1 going from this look:

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to this look:

LeftView1716x1284.jpg

Since then, I’ve done a couple of other mods, and now my SAR-1 looks like this:

P1010142.jpg

P1010140.jpg

P1010144.jpg

P1010143.jpg

The handguards are the UTG Quad Rail system from http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/UTG_Quad_Rail_AK_Handguard_System.html as well as from other vendors. The handguards are anodized aluminum and are well made. They fit the SAR-1 perfectly and needed absolutely no tweaking. Once in place, the handguards provide a very solid platform for rail-mounted sights. The system comes with hard rubber rail guards to protect the Picatinny rails when they are not being used. The rubber rail guards for the side and bottom rails add some bulk and, to me, they make grasping and controlling the rifle easier than did either the standard wood handguards or the lower wood handguard with the integrated pistol grip.

P1010138-1.jpg

One thing I did learn was that the iron sights cannot be used with the top rail rubber guards in place. However, with a side-rail mounted scope or red dot sight, such as the Kobra, the rubber rail guards for the top rail work just fine. Of course, with sights mounted on the top rail, the guards are not needed at all – unless you just want to use them on the sections of the rail not taken by the sight.

The muzzle device is the JTAC-47 Compensator for 7.62X39 AK rifles with 14:1, LH threads. This particular compensator not only lessens the recoil of the AK-47, but it does so without a significant increase in blast noise directed toward the shooter.

There is a video at http://www.gunaccessories.com/flash_hiders/index.asp that shows the muzzle device in action. Just scroll down until you come to the ad for the JTAC-47 Compensator.

BTW, I’m not trying to make my SAR-1 into an AR-15 type rifle. I just enjoy implementing some the numerous variations that are possible with the AK as well as knowing that I am not going to damage the rifle and that it can be put back into its original configuration relatively quickly, if so desired.

And, is it un-American? No, it isn't!
 
Several months after I got the SAR-1, I rented a threading kit from a member of another AK site and threaded the muzzel to have LH 14:1 threads. It took about 30 minutes to do because I didn't have a vise to hold the rifle and a friend had to do that job while I did the threading. I also failed to take into account that the detent pin would interfere with the threading. Otherwise, it would have probably taken half that time to do the threading.

Once the barrel was threaded, any muzzle device with LH 14:1 threads just screws on and off and the detent pin keeps the device on the muzzle.
 
detent pin keeps the device on the muzzle.

I don't think my SAR1 came with a dent pin.
Is that something else to buy/install? There is a hole, but no pin.
 
I don't think my SAR1 came with a dent pin.
Is that something else to buy/install? There is a hole, but no pin.
I had to buy a detent pin and a spring for my SAR1. I believe the retainer pin(keeps the detent pin from flying out) was already there.

I also rented the threading kit.
 
Did it add a lot of weight up front and throw the balance off?
The rail system added some weight but not enought to be really noticable. The balance was not affected.

Is it easy to install the detent pin and spring?
The below description sounds more complicated than it really is:

Installation of Detent Pin and Spring

The hole in which the detent pin and spring are installed is in the front base of the front sight block (FSB) of the AK. Some AKs have only one hole in the front of the FSB, others have a hole that goes completely through the FSB from front to rear. If the AK has only one hole in the FSB, only the front lateral pin must be moved in order to install the detent pin and spring. In rifles that have a hole that goes completely through the FSB from front to rear, both the front and rear lateral pins must be moved in order to install the detent pin and spring. To make the lateral pin(s) in the FSB easier to move, cover the pin(s) with Break Free by putting several drops on the outside of each pin where it enters the FSB as well as on that portion of the pin inside the hole in the FSB and let the rifle sit over night.

To move the pin(s), use a 1/8” steel punch and carefully hammer (drift) the pin(s) from left to right out of the FSB just far enough so the detent pin and spring can be fully inserted into the hole in the FSB (do not remove the pin(s) completely from the FSB). Note that in the center of the detent pin there is a machined groove that must be aligned over the top of the front lateral pin. Also note that the detent pin has a “lip” on the end that is first inserted into the hole. Be sure to insert the spring before inserting the pin. (There was a post by “scromer” on either www.GlockTalk.com or www.gunsnet.net that illustrated the installation of the spring and detent pin but I no longer have the link.)

After insuring that the detent pin and spring are properly inserted, use the punch and hammer to drift the pin(s) back (right to left) into their original position(s). Once in place, the detent pin will easily slide back and forth over the front lateral pin with enough protrusion from the FSB to secure the muzzle device.

If you will be threading the barrel of the AK, it is better to wait until the threading is completed to install the detent pin and spring. This will make the threading of the barrel quicker and easier than if the detent pin and spring are installed prior to the threading.
 
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