Advice from a professional. -Lube your pistol cases.

longdayjake

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Okay, I'm sure most of you guys know that I own a bullet company. I've chosen reloading as my profession and many of you know that I answer most of the customer service questions myself. I spend every day of my life and many of my nights obsessed with reloading. At this point I consider myself a reloading professional. One thing that I have found over the years is that lubing pistol cases can solve SO MANY problems in reloading. At this point I am conviced that the habit of not lubing straight wall pistol cases came more from marketing campaigns than from logic or prudence. I can find no benefit in reloading to not lubing the cases other than you won't have to deal with the lube. That is the only benefit that I can find for not lubing them. Here are some of the negative issues I've seen from not lubing cases.

1. No lube is more likely to damage brass if dust or some other material harder than the brass gets in the die or on the brass.
2. No lube requires more force (energy) to resize. (Which is tiring for both your arm and your press).
3. No lube leaves brass dry and makes seating the bullets less consistent. (More variance in OAL or canted seating. Smoother seating allows bullets to better straighten as they are seated and you don't get the stutter that can cause OAL to be inconsistent).
4. No lube can sometimes result in insufficent sizing to get the case down small enough to case gauge. (Lube helps get rid of glock bulge).

Now, as a bullet maker that uses 100% carbide dies to form a copper alloy from strip into a cup I can tell you how important lubrication is when forming copper based metals. Sometimes our lube application on our presses gets plugged with particulate or oxidation and it completely ruins the ability of the machine to make a consistent bullet. It will still make bullets. It won't explode. But we lose all consistency. When we first started making bullets and we started experiencing this problem we spent thousands of dollars on tooling for punches, dies, and ejectors trying to find out which carbide part was causing the issues. We pulled our hair out until we finally decided to replace the $2 piece of wool felt that was in the lube pot. The felt was plugged with grime and had stopped applying lube to the bottom of the strip so we couldn't see that it was mostly dry. That was when I learned that sometimes you can save a thousand headaches and tons of money by just adding lube. Brass is even harder than our copper alloy and benefits even more from proper lubrication. We have made brass jacketed bullets in the past as well and it's more likely to split or crack when not lubed. Recently, we've been involved in making our own headstamp cases and I can say that proper lubrication is even more critical when forming cases.

General rules in forming metal. Metal against metal is bad! ALWAYS! Lubrication is good. ALWAYS! It's so important that we use the proper lube that I have resigned myself to purchasing 55 gallon drums of our copper lube at $47/gallon. Trust me, if carbide dies made lubrication unnecessary I would save myself a crap ton of money on lube. Carbide is slicker and it lasts much longer, but it still needs lube to get the most out of it.

I am not a huge fan of One Shot except for pistol cases. When loading I will put a bunch of cases in a ziploc bag and spray a bunch of One Shot in there and shake them around so that lube gets all over all of the cases. Then I open the bag and apply more if needed or I just let them dry out. (You have to let One Shot dry out). It's by far the fasted and easiest way to lube pistol cases and it's not terribly messy. If you are someone who has never lubed your pistol cases then trying this for the first time will complely change your world. It has solved countless customer service issues I've been presented with over the years. Especially now that there are so many people wet polishing and stripping the brass of any lubrication at all. So, take it from the professional instead of the marketer. Lube your cases.
 
Thank you, totally agree.:)
I have been lubing all brass since I began reloading even when using carbide dies.
I use diluted LEE lube (with rubbing alcohol) in a small spritz bottle. Put brass in a Tupperware container shake it around. It dries in minutes. No need to wipe it off (water based)


The lube is essentially wire pulling lube , folks can get a lifetime supply at Home Depot.

We now begin another brass lube thread!:rofl:
 
Before I started lubing 9mm cases, the occasional range pickup case was so hard to size, that powder was bumped out of the Dillion powder horn on the up stroke. I am using carbide dies on my Dillion. Now with case lube, sizing is smooth and easy. Tried it for all my pistol cases, and have been leaving the case lube on the finished round, to improve function in my semi automatic 9mm and 45 ACP's. The less case to chamber friction, the better the pistol extracts and feeds.

A disadvantage to leaving case lube on the case is if you drop a case in the dirt, lube attracts dirt. So you have to wipe it off.

I read a post from a Blazer employee, aluminum cases have several different types of waxes on them, to prevent the aluminum from sticking in the chamber. Sintered teflon has been used on steel case ammunition. I do believe that some of the ammunition I have purchased was tumbled with a wax, to make the cases shiny, and stay shiny in the box. Wax under the temperatures and pressures of combustion melts, and acts as a lubricant.
 
So, take it from the professional instead of the marketer. Lube your cases.

When I first started reloading I was told with Carbide Dies you don't need lube. As a mechanic in many different disciplines, metal on metal of any type works both pieces to their detriment!!! Lube never hurts. Just helps all around.

Thanks Jake!!! You and your team are the best!!! God Bless!!!
 
I’ve been spraying lube in a bag and shaking the brass around for a while now, especially 9MM brass. I then add in unlubed, cleaned brass after the lube has dried and mix them together, probably a 33% lubed to unlubed mix. This works for me in keeping everything moving nice and smooth. It really is amazing the difference in the handle pull when using lubed brass. Thanks Jake, your advice is always appreciated.
 
Couldn’t agree more.

In the final tumble with powdered walnut media I add green copper oxide and red ferrous oxide polishing waxes. First tumble is with untreated corn.

When I first started handloading as a kid I used a rag impregnated with Remoil to wipe down every case after it was cleaned with Hoppe’s. I did that for almost a decade. When I started dry tumbling I discovered that the practice my uncle taught me of wiping my brass with oil served a purpose.

Later, as a machinist, I discovered that wax was a good lubricant and in some situations superior - I also learned that wax buffing compound on a linen wheel could cut stainless steel.

I don’t use “case lube” but I do lubricate every case. And yes sometimes I still use an oil rag.
 
I’ve started lubing 357 and 38 cases just for the reduced effort. I will have to try 9mm now too. I lube about 50 at a time until I get the batch done. I’ll have to find a more efficient method for 9mm.
 
General rules in forming metal. Metal against metal is bad! ALWAYS! Lubrication is good. ALWAYS!
I agree.

Even when using carbide sizer ring dies, I noticed brass tumbled in NuFinish treated walnut media with residual polymer on brass surface will act as lubricant to make sizing smoother and effort easier. (Not to mention keeping the polished brass shiny for months/years instead of tarnishing)

One Shot ... Lube your cases.
Agree also.

And we even did One Shot myth busting here - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...affect-on-neck-tension-bullet-setback.834035/
 
Even when using carbide sizer ring dies, I noticed brass tumbled in NuFinish treated walnut media with residual polymer on brass surface will act as lubricant to make sizing smoother and effort easier.
I too, use NuFinish in walnut media, but only use One Shot for .22TCM cases. It really makes a difference there.

I should probably use it on all of my brass just for the reduced effort.

Oh well, another step to incorporate…
 
The NO Lube was a marketing thing when carbide sizing dies came out. Back then until recently there was only a small ring limiting surface area contact. Now with full length carbide like a std steel dies lube is required. I lube all my brass when sizing, OS into the hopper of my brass feeder does the job. Now with that said, lube has come a long ways from the RCBS heavy grease from the 60's .
 
Been running unlubed straight wall cases thru carbide sizers for over 30 years without issue. I'll grant that it will make sizing easier, but I'd rather avoid the lube.

As far as the four negative issues of not lubing cases as listed in the OP:
#1 may be true, but even if true the benefit of lube in such instances is probably minor. Dirt or hard material stuck to a die or brass is likely to damage brass whether lubed or not.
#2 is true.
#3 may be true if lube is present inside the case. But lube is typically applied to the outside of the case without much regard to the inside of the case. And the amount and location of lube getting inside the case is probably highly variable, also leading to variations in bullet seating. I've actually experienced more issues/difficulties with expanding straightwall cases than sizing them, suggesting there may be even more benefit to consistent lube inside the case.
#4 would seem to be minor. If a case enters the sizing die the same amount, it's hard to imagine that the degree of sizing and springback would vary based on the presence or absence of lube. If the press has considerable flex, I suppose an unlubed case may not enter the sizing die to the same degree as a lubed one.

Almost without exception, all the problems I've had with brass scratching have been with bottleneck cases sized in steel dies using lube applied with a lube soaked pad. Steel dies are easily galled with brass particles in the neck, even when lubed. Likewise, expanding mandrels used with bottleneck cases are also easily galled with brass if not lubed. So I deliberately lube the inside of the necks with a brush rolled in lube. But that also requires removing the lube after expanding to achieve proper bullet tension.

Just my thoughts.
 
Using just a light mist of OneShot makes loading pistol so much smoother and more enjoyable. One spray can will last a very long time, so the cost per round is pretty much nil. You dont have to tumble off as it will not contaminate powder or primers once dry. I dont understand why people like to struggle.
 
I use the alcohol and lanolin mix. I use the same gallon bag over and over. Throw in some brass give it I few squirts from a spray bottle and rub them around coating them. I dump them on a pan to evaporate the alcohol and dump them in my case feeder, easy and makes it easier to load.
 
I believe I went without lube for approximately 2 weeks when I started reloading on my own. I then thought, 9mm or not, lube=less friction. Being a lazy sort (especially with working full time) I’ve lubed everything since. I did learn case lube doesn’t work well on the press ram however. 🤣
 
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I don’t lube all pistol brass but I do lube some if it’s a harder to size variety. It does work better that way. The main reason I don’t lube it all is I don’t want to have to remove the lube in my tumbler.
 
Use nothing on handgun with carbide dies. Don't tumble unless I must. Tarnished sizes slick and couldn't care less if it doesn't look " new ". Rarely use that tumbler
 
Nope. Have had perfect results, over several decades and hundreds of thousands of cartridges, with multiple brands of dies, presses, and cases, without lube. There are certain situations where lube is worth the hassle, but overall, the opening post is akin to telling everyone that belts are nice, but that you really should still use suspenders too.
 
Nope. Have had perfect results, over several decades and hundreds of thousands of cartridges, with multiple brands of dies, presses, and cases, without lube. There are certain situations where lube is worth the hassle, but overall, the opening post is akin to telling everyone that belts are nice, but that you really should still use suspenders too.
The comment is probably very applicable to machine processes. Making bullets and reloading on a progressive are both machine processes, and those that load progressively I have zero doubt would see an improvement in over all consistency because the entire process happens at once, and one station will impact the entire process. Lubes that dry completely would be great candidates for this process... things like lanolin would not imo.
 
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