I have a 1997 model M77 MarkII 30-06. I'm lucky to get 3" groups at 100 yds. I'm not looking for competition accuracy but obviously need improvement. I've been reading all I can find (I'm a rookie but should have no problem with the required skills) but need some reasurance on where to begin. Seems to be a lot of M77 bashing but mostly older models, newer ones are supposed to be better, right? I know I need to float the barrel because I can see the forend of the stock is against the barrel on one side and if I put sideways pressure on it I can hear it rubbing. I'm thinking I should glass bed the action right away also but read on at least one thread that it's not really necessary on an M77 because of Rugers unique mounting system. Bedding the forend should only be tried if these first two steps don't help, right? Am I on the right track or is there something else I should try. Thanks for any advice.
Advice on improving Ruger M77.
- Thread starter unclbubs
- Start date
- Status
Mike Hull
Member
I would try getting that stock/barrel contact fixed first.
If you don't have the regular barrel channel inletting tools, just get a piece of wooden dowel of the proper size, wrap your sandpaper once around so you can hold the loose ends at the top, and just scrub the channel.
There might be a raised portion near the tip of the stock, you might as well remove that too.
Don't go all the way back to where the receiver ring will sit. Stop about an inch short of that to support part of the chamber area of the barrel. Smooth it with some finer paper, and put a couple of coats of tung oil in the channel to seal it.
If it improves some, but not enough in your estimation, maybe look at replacing the trigger with a lighter, adjustable one, and lastly, maybe the glass bedding of the receiver.
Good luck to you.
If you don't have the regular barrel channel inletting tools, just get a piece of wooden dowel of the proper size, wrap your sandpaper once around so you can hold the loose ends at the top, and just scrub the channel.
There might be a raised portion near the tip of the stock, you might as well remove that too.
Don't go all the way back to where the receiver ring will sit. Stop about an inch short of that to support part of the chamber area of the barrel. Smooth it with some finer paper, and put a couple of coats of tung oil in the channel to seal it.
If it improves some, but not enough in your estimation, maybe look at replacing the trigger with a lighter, adjustable one, and lastly, maybe the glass bedding of the receiver.
Good luck to you.
Vern Humphrey
Member
Do one thing at a time -- that's the key to success. First of all, locate where the barrel rubs and sand the contact point on the stock down. Return the barrel to the stock, wrap a dollar bill around the barrel and slide it back -- it should slide freely to the chamber area at least.
Then shoot the rifle -- be sure all screws are snugged down, including scope screws. If it shoots well, that's all that's needed.
If you still have problems, I'd look at the trigger next, and then at the scope -- switch scopes and see if it shoots better. Then I'd try different loads to see if I could produce a handload that would shrink groups.
Rebedding would come just before shipping it back to Ruger.
critter
Member
Been there-done that-have the T shirt!
I have an older model Ruger 77 in 30-06 which shot just awful when I bought it new. It now shoots nicely-not a bench rest rifle, but a good hunting firearm. BTW make sure the barrel is ABSOLUTELY clean! Then try a few groups.
Proceed in steps: (A CAREFUL check of accuracy after completing each step is needed. STOP when accuracy is up to par.)
#1: First, as you have already noted, get rid of the forearm contact. Free float the barrel. (Some barrels may do better with a little forearm pressure, but NOT if it is not even. This can be put back in if it is found to be necessary later.)
#2: Try bedding just the top and front of the recoil lug in the stock AND just the rear tang.
#3: If it still won't shoot, completely bed the entire action.
I did all three and it turned out just fine. Good luck with yours.
#2:
I have an older model Ruger 77 in 30-06 which shot just awful when I bought it new. It now shoots nicely-not a bench rest rifle, but a good hunting firearm. BTW make sure the barrel is ABSOLUTELY clean! Then try a few groups.
Proceed in steps: (A CAREFUL check of accuracy after completing each step is needed. STOP when accuracy is up to par.)
#1: First, as you have already noted, get rid of the forearm contact. Free float the barrel. (Some barrels may do better with a little forearm pressure, but NOT if it is not even. This can be put back in if it is found to be necessary later.)
#2: Try bedding just the top and front of the recoil lug in the stock AND just the rear tang.
#3: If it still won't shoot, completely bed the entire action.
I did all three and it turned out just fine. Good luck with yours.
#2:
El Tejon
Member
IME, all Rugers need to have the barrel crowned, a trigger job, slick the bolt, and get a new stock.
I recommend the boys at Robar. They have done wonderful work for me with Rugers.
I recommend the boys at Robar. They have done wonderful work for me with Rugers.
Unclbubs;
I notice that you did not mention your opinion of the trigger at all, but did mention that you're a rookie. Not trying to stir the pot here, but would like to know if you are a rookie to shooting in general, or just working on your own guns.
A large reason for the query is that Rugers have a well-deserved reputation for less than optimal triggers. But a rookie to shooting in general might not know that & think his stock trigger on the new rifle is just fine. Odds are though, that it could stand some improvement, being a Ruger.
Therefore, the order in which I'd proceed would be: 1. Float. 2. Trigger job. 3. Load development. 4. Crown. 5. More load development. 6. Bed.
Just my $.02
900F
I notice that you did not mention your opinion of the trigger at all, but did mention that you're a rookie. Not trying to stir the pot here, but would like to know if you are a rookie to shooting in general, or just working on your own guns.
A large reason for the query is that Rugers have a well-deserved reputation for less than optimal triggers. But a rookie to shooting in general might not know that & think his stock trigger on the new rifle is just fine. Odds are though, that it could stand some improvement, being a Ruger.
Therefore, the order in which I'd proceed would be: 1. Float. 2. Trigger job. 3. Load development. 4. Crown. 5. More load development. 6. Bed.
Just my $.02
900F
If you go to Chuck Hawks website there is a good article on inexpensive accuracy improvement. I installed a Timney trigger on mine M77 RSI and it helped a lot. I left the stock springs in and have about a 3.5" trigger that breaks like the proverbial glass rod.
Also try several brands/qualitybullet weight of ammunition. If the remington and winchester $12 Wally World specials don't work well enough, spend $8 more for a better quality box and see what happens. My RSI will do .95" on a good day with the $12 (150 gr) stuff. Usually 1.5"@100 which is fine for any distance I am comfortable at.
Good Luck.
Steve
Also try several brands/qualitybullet weight of ammunition. If the remington and winchester $12 Wally World specials don't work well enough, spend $8 more for a better quality box and see what happens. My RSI will do .95" on a good day with the $12 (150 gr) stuff. Usually 1.5"@100 which is fine for any distance I am comfortable at.
Good Luck.
Steve
...but would like to know if you are a rookie to shooting in general, or just working on your own guns.
I meant rookie at working on my own guns but I only shoot a few times a year and haven't had the opportunity to shoot that many rifles besides my own so I don't think I have the feel for what a good trigger feels like. Although I am a reasonably accurate shooter with anything else I shoot so I know it's not me. I thought a trigger would just help make a better shooter not really improve the accuracy of the gun itself but it sounds like consensus is to replace it, after floating of course.
Thanks for the replies everyone. Not sure how soon I'll get around to working on it but when I do I'll post back here to let you know how I made out and maybe it will help another rookie sometime.
I meant rookie at working on my own guns but I only shoot a few times a year and haven't had the opportunity to shoot that many rifles besides my own so I don't think I have the feel for what a good trigger feels like. Although I am a reasonably accurate shooter with anything else I shoot so I know it's not me. I thought a trigger would just help make a better shooter not really improve the accuracy of the gun itself but it sounds like consensus is to replace it, after floating of course.
Thanks for the replies everyone. Not sure how soon I'll get around to working on it but when I do I'll post back here to let you know how I made out and maybe it will help another rookie sometime.
nico
Member
I'm a little late on this one, but I added a Timney trigger to my M77 All Weather before this past hunting season and it was worth every penny. It's very simple to install; doesn't require any permanent modifications to the rifle, but it might take a while to file down the trigger to get it to fit the safety. Even with the trigger set about as heavy as it'll go, it feels much better than the factory trigger.
I've noticed that all the talk about bedding applies to wood stocked models. How would you go about modifying a synthetic stock? Or is there a reasonably priced stock that would improve accuracy without adding a lot of weight? I've seen some that were around $100, but I'd be weary to buy one without hearing a few good reviews first. Also, how much does bedding affect accuracy? The Hogue stocks that MidwayUSA sells are available with pillar bedding ($99) or full bedding ($194). I remember seeing one that had an aluminum bedding block too, but I can't seem to find it.
I've noticed that all the talk about bedding applies to wood stocked models. How would you go about modifying a synthetic stock? Or is there a reasonably priced stock that would improve accuracy without adding a lot of weight? I've seen some that were around $100, but I'd be weary to buy one without hearing a few good reviews first. Also, how much does bedding affect accuracy? The Hogue stocks that MidwayUSA sells are available with pillar bedding ($99) or full bedding ($194). I remember seeing one that had an aluminum bedding block too, but I can't seem to find it.
I know this is an old thread, but just in case someone is looking for the answer to the OP's question: the very first step with a M77 is to tighten the action screws properly. Go to Ruger.com for specifics, but the angled front screw needs to be 100 in-lbs, iirc. I couldn't get 100 in-lbs on the slot head screw, so I swapped it out for an Allen head screw. I also changed the trigger spring on mine to reduce the pull weight. Those to changes made a big difference. My best hand loads were 1.5" at 100yds. After the changes they dropped to 0.75".
Ruger uses a different bedding system than anyone else. They DO NOT recommend floating the barrel, but use full contact. As wombat13 says tightening the action screws properly will make a big difference with wood or synthetic.
All 3 screws should be just finger tight to start with. Then the middle angeled screw needs to be tightened just as tight as possible. This pulls the action down, and back toward the rear. If the other screws are tight it won't allow the action to move properly and puts everything in a bind. This seats the recoil lug and pulls the barrel tight against the stock. The other screws are then tightened just enough to prevent them from working loose.
Some people float the barrels by removing stock material. I wouldn't do so on a synthetic stock at all. MAYBE on a wood stock, but once again Ruger advises against this.
I've found that any of them will give decent hunting accuracy if done right. Most will shoot MOA, some a bit more, some a bit less. You aren't going to find many Rugers that will consistently shoot the .5 and .3 MOA groups that some rifles will, but 1 MOA is more than enough for hunting and that is what the rifle is designed for.
All 3 screws should be just finger tight to start with. Then the middle angeled screw needs to be tightened just as tight as possible. This pulls the action down, and back toward the rear. If the other screws are tight it won't allow the action to move properly and puts everything in a bind. This seats the recoil lug and pulls the barrel tight against the stock. The other screws are then tightened just enough to prevent them from working loose.
Some people float the barrels by removing stock material. I wouldn't do so on a synthetic stock at all. MAYBE on a wood stock, but once again Ruger advises against this.
I've found that any of them will give decent hunting accuracy if done right. Most will shoot MOA, some a bit more, some a bit less. You aren't going to find many Rugers that will consistently shoot the .5 and .3 MOA groups that some rifles will, but 1 MOA is more than enough for hunting and that is what the rifle is designed for.
Jim Watson
Member
A friend went round and round with one of those because he wanted a modern 7x57.
Accuracy was poor even as wood stocked hunting rifles go. On its SECOND return from Ruger, it came with a test target that looked pretty good... until he noticed that it was shot at 50 yards instead of 100. It is now a .280 Remington, courtesy of an independent shop, and does quite well.
My 77V .22-250 is very accurate, although not quite as good as my super duper AR mit 28" Krieger barrel.
Accuracy was poor even as wood stocked hunting rifles go. On its SECOND return from Ruger, it came with a test target that looked pretty good... until he noticed that it was shot at 50 yards instead of 100. It is now a .280 Remington, courtesy of an independent shop, and does quite well.
My 77V .22-250 is very accurate, although not quite as good as my super duper AR mit 28" Krieger barrel.
Oldschool shooter
Member
One other thing to keep in mind is to torque the action screws to spec, too loose or too tight will make any bolt gun shoot poorly.
Oldschool shooter
Member
Sorry, should have read before I posted.
- Status
