steeltiger
Member
What about a ghromans, or cold steels new ganadian belt knife, looks like it would do well not to steep either
All around survival knife, whats your pick?
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steeltiger
Member
Once again ive neglected to remember that the cold steel special forces shovel makes a great hachet ( better hachet than shovel ), back up shovel, paddel, and with a grinder it can be sharpened to a fair edge. To top it all of its not bad at combat. As a shovel of such short stature its great for jeep cary ( I have a 92 yj wrangler / dads got a 77 cj7 / and mums got a new liberty ) if you happen to get stuck it can help alot.
It,l do just about anything alright but, nothing tremendously well.
Oh thanks for the welcome, just now noticed the one on this thread( inattentitive arent I )
It,l do just about anything alright but, nothing tremendously well.
Oh thanks for the welcome, just now noticed the one on this thread( inattentitive arent I )
borrowedtime69
Member
survival knives
i recently purchased a Geber LMF II:
it has every thing i need, a short ,strong blade with a good belly for skinning, a serrated edge, electrically isolated, vibration dampening handle, a heavy pommel with a point, and a hammer surface. the sheath has a built in sharpener, is very tough, and has a multitude of ways to carry it.
the extra safety blade that cuts cordage and webbing (seatbelts) isnt very useful so i dont carry it.
along with that knife i can carry a Gerber folding saw and a Gerber backpack hatchet. if im out for a longer period of time, i also have a Gerber folding NATO shovel.
i also have a CRK&T folding tanto blade M16-12Z for every day carry. i have either a Camillus Army jackknife or a swiss army knife.
mostly i mix and match what i carry to fit the occassion.
oh, i also have a Cold Steel ODA that i used to carry, but it didnt have the heft of the gerber so i switched. i also hated the epoxy coating on it so i stripped it and cold blued it.
thanks - Eric
i recently purchased a Geber LMF II:
it has every thing i need, a short ,strong blade with a good belly for skinning, a serrated edge, electrically isolated, vibration dampening handle, a heavy pommel with a point, and a hammer surface. the sheath has a built in sharpener, is very tough, and has a multitude of ways to carry it.
the extra safety blade that cuts cordage and webbing (seatbelts) isnt very useful so i dont carry it.
along with that knife i can carry a Gerber folding saw and a Gerber backpack hatchet. if im out for a longer period of time, i also have a Gerber folding NATO shovel.
i also have a CRK&T folding tanto blade M16-12Z for every day carry. i have either a Camillus Army jackknife or a swiss army knife.
mostly i mix and match what i carry to fit the occassion.
oh, i also have a Cold Steel ODA that i used to carry, but it didnt have the heft of the gerber so i switched. i also hated the epoxy coating on it so i stripped it and cold blued it.
thanks - Eric
Not sure I would want to limit myself to one knife. If I did it might be a Busse Steal heart with a thinned edge.
I would rather have two knives
Busse BM for shopping and shealter building and fire building
A mid sized thinned and convexed Busse for camp chores
Tough steal, very rust resistant. Easy to sharpen
If I was on the move a Bark River mini axe and a Small Busse.
I would rather have two knives
Busse BM for shopping and shealter building and fire building
A mid sized thinned and convexed Busse for camp chores
Tough steal, very rust resistant. Easy to sharpen
If I was on the move a Bark River mini axe and a Small Busse.
Nasty Jack
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Jeez . . . I have a footlocker full of edged whatevers. For "all round" . . . I'd look at reasonable price and durable. Local Army PX sells the Navy Pilot Survival Knife. Nothing "special" but about $30 and durable as hell. Camillus. Camillus has had this contract for decades.
I have a Ka-Bar . . . but it's "special" and so won't get "deployed."
There's the current military "big nasty" -- it's a survival/bayonet with a serrated edge and hooks up with the sheath to make a wire cutter . . . foot long and weighs about three pounds. Macho as hell, but the Navy Pilot seems to cover all the bases at a reasonable cost.
I have a Ka-Bar . . . but it's "special" and so won't get "deployed."
There's the current military "big nasty" -- it's a survival/bayonet with a serrated edge and hooks up with the sheath to make a wire cutter . . . foot long and weighs about three pounds. Macho as hell, but the Navy Pilot seems to cover all the bases at a reasonable cost.
Extremely educational. Thanks. I understand the tradeoffs far more accurately now.
Put me in the multi-knife camp (as if you experienced folk would care), but if limited to a single blade in the woods I'd probably take my K-bar. (The Wave and 3" Schrade from my Boy Scout days would stay at home.)
Part of the K-bar's allure is that it can almost be a machete. Any thoughts on comparing quality and hardiness of an Ontario machete against the Woodsman's Pal (and any others). Obviously not a precision tool, but hacking sagebrush and branches is vigorous work.
Put me in the multi-knife camp (as if you experienced folk would care), but if limited to a single blade in the woods I'd probably take my K-bar. (The Wave and 3" Schrade from my Boy Scout days would stay at home.)
Part of the K-bar's allure is that it can almost be a machete. Any thoughts on comparing quality and hardiness of an Ontario machete against the Woodsman's Pal (and any others). Obviously not a precision tool, but hacking sagebrush and branches is vigorous work.
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steeltiger
Member
Built one today, four and a half inch saw blade steel (kept the sawback) drop point blade five inch oak handle, just big enough to get the job done (should of made it bigger), bout like a pilot survival with a birds beak pommel and half tang, just right for a small pack carry
survival knife
I don't know if you don't know it or not but you can get the seal pup elite without the serrations. I have one and man is it nice. Fits my hand nicely, blade lenth just about right and weight is good without being to heavy. I can skin, constuct shelters or do food prep with this knife just fine. The slight guard and choil also enables me to use this knife defensively without a lot of worry about my own hands being cut. The only drawback is the AUS 8 Steel, they should make a version in high carbon or D2. This knife would then be well IMO perrrrfect.
I don't know if you don't know it or not but you can get the seal pup elite without the serrations. I have one and man is it nice. Fits my hand nicely, blade lenth just about right and weight is good without being to heavy. I can skin, constuct shelters or do food prep with this knife just fine. The slight guard and choil also enables me to use this knife defensively without a lot of worry about my own hands being cut. The only drawback is the AUS 8 Steel, they should make a version in high carbon or D2. This knife would then be well IMO perrrrfect.
Smith357
Member
USMC Ka-Bar
A rugged, versatile, inexpensive, and easily replaceable, knife, hammer, shovel.
A rugged, versatile, inexpensive, and easily replaceable, knife, hammer, shovel.
SniperStraz
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- Nov 13, 2006
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- 871
^^^Amen to that^^^
Like the 1911, the Ka Bar has been proven in many conflicts time and time again. It has been the #1 on the USMC's list of knives and has served its purpose well.
Like the 1911, the Ka Bar has been proven in many conflicts time and time again. It has been the #1 on the USMC's list of knives and has served its purpose well.
AStone
Member
Bumpity bump
Or in this case, I guess the expression should be cuttity cut.
I've spent the whole day - maybe eight hours or so, exploring all-purpose/survival knives & tomahawks here and on blade forum.
Finally, I found myself coming back into this thread, and have reread the entire thing, start to finish.
With each post, I found myself asking, how well does this knife meet Mattw's orginal specification:
When I think of "all round survival", I think of everything from cutting cord to cutting food to skinning game and cleaning fish to building debris huts to ...yes, SD from skanky humans. How can one knife do all that?
Part of my day was spent reading M40's Wilderness Survival Skills. He recommends a Becker Brute with a 9" blade (which, as far as I can tell, is no longer being made; most sites list it as "discontinued").
Now, his motivation is that it can be used to chop wood and build a shelter with it.
From my perspective, a 9" blade is just too big for a single knife. I wouldn't want to skin a rabbit with one. But I don't think that a 4 or 5" blade (like Moras) recommended by some in this thread would be big enough for chopping wood for shelter building (even though it would excel for skinning game or making tools).
So, I'm either forced to conclude that:
1) if there was to be one and only one knife in the kit, a 6 or 7" blade would be the smallest that could effectively be used to cut wood with for fires and shelter construction.
2) but in reality, it may be foolish to try to do everything survival with one blade. Aren't we really being unrealistic with the expectation? Shouldn't we consider one shorter fixed blade (say, 4 to 6" blade) for general cutting duties, and a backpacking hatchet, machete or tomahawk for wood cutting and shelter building?
It occurred to me that on page one, someone - especially Matt - should have been asked to list all the tasks that this knife is supposed to be used for.
So, I'm doing that now. I'd enjoy reading each person's detailed list of what a survival knife is supposed to accomplish for them in a "survival" situation - all their cutting needs - and why they think their proposed knives are up to the task.
It also occurs to me that some may be thinking, "I'm going to have a tarp and won't have to build a debris shelter", where as others are not. That's going to influence what "survival knife" you carry.
So, we should state our assumptions about what other gear (e.g., tarps) we'll have with us in the situation.
Nem
Or in this case, I guess the expression should be cuttity cut.
I've spent the whole day - maybe eight hours or so, exploring all-purpose/survival knives & tomahawks here and on blade forum.
Finally, I found myself coming back into this thread, and have reread the entire thing, start to finish.
With each post, I found myself asking, how well does this knife meet Mattw's orginal specification:
I've realized that there must be different versions of the uses for an all round survival knife.
When I think of "all round survival", I think of everything from cutting cord to cutting food to skinning game and cleaning fish to building debris huts to ...yes, SD from skanky humans. How can one knife do all that?
Part of my day was spent reading M40's Wilderness Survival Skills. He recommends a Becker Brute with a 9" blade (which, as far as I can tell, is no longer being made; most sites list it as "discontinued").
Now, his motivation is that it can be used to chop wood and build a shelter with it.
From my perspective, a 9" blade is just too big for a single knife. I wouldn't want to skin a rabbit with one. But I don't think that a 4 or 5" blade (like Moras) recommended by some in this thread would be big enough for chopping wood for shelter building (even though it would excel for skinning game or making tools).
So, I'm either forced to conclude that:
1) if there was to be one and only one knife in the kit, a 6 or 7" blade would be the smallest that could effectively be used to cut wood with for fires and shelter construction.
2) but in reality, it may be foolish to try to do everything survival with one blade. Aren't we really being unrealistic with the expectation? Shouldn't we consider one shorter fixed blade (say, 4 to 6" blade) for general cutting duties, and a backpacking hatchet, machete or tomahawk for wood cutting and shelter building?
It occurred to me that on page one, someone - especially Matt - should have been asked to list all the tasks that this knife is supposed to be used for.
So, I'm doing that now. I'd enjoy reading each person's detailed list of what a survival knife is supposed to accomplish for them in a "survival" situation - all their cutting needs - and why they think their proposed knives are up to the task.
It also occurs to me that some may be thinking, "I'm going to have a tarp and won't have to build a debris shelter", where as others are not. That's going to influence what "survival knife" you carry.
So, we should state our assumptions about what other gear (e.g., tarps) we'll have with us in the situation.
Nem
Overall 'surivival use' Mc Guyver wasn't wrong.
I've done more with a Swiss army knife than I ever accomplished with a bigger blade, with a few exceptions. Some folks prefer a multi-tool.
I use the 'hunter' model that has a saw blade... I can tell you from experience you can certainly gut, split bones and skin an antelope with nothing but a Swiss army knife. I have made shelter using nothing but a Swiss army knife. Many of the new models have locking and serrated blades that are WICKED sharp. (Note that over time they do dull a bit and a 'specialty' sharpener is required--but what do you want in a $30 knife? The serrated blades are a little thinner than the old single edge.) You might actually need tweezers, a can opener and a screwdriver. I've had little use for the awl, but the nail file is a great striking surface for flint n steel. the scissors are 'gimmicky' until you need to cut moleskin precisely. The scissors springs give up after 10 years of hard use. Stainless means it won't rust in your pocket, or before you make it home from where ever you are.
You need a big knife for skinning a big animal. Specialty blades like Wyoming knives are slick, but they dull quickly. A good 3-5 inch blade with plenty of belly is the perfect skinner. Buck makes some nice ones. Cold Steel's Bushman is a no-frills (you might wanna wrap the handle with leather) knife that's made for that very purpose, and if you feel the need, it's designed to be made into a spear.
Another use for a big knife is prepping boughs for a shelter or other such 'grunt work' you wish you had a machete or hatchet for. There's no 'best' answer for this, rather how much weight you are willing to carry. A heavy knife is more useful than a 'light' one, some military blades have wire cutters built in (a neat feature) or nail pullers etc. These big knives are lousy for stuff like cleaning a squirrel or bird (animal you might be able to catch in a survival situation). If you go trekking in dense jungle-like forest with vines, etc a lightwieght machete might make a lot more sense than a K-bar, if you have a Swiss in your pocket.
Thing is, a Swiss army slips in your pocket and is with you ALWAYS --no matter what... in the car, the office, etc, not just 'on the trail.' I wish they made one with a glass breaker feature (the new serrated blades can cut a seatbelt).
When I go backpacking I've always got a Swiss, maybe a larger knife. Usually a small shovel (someone mentioned the Spetsnatz shovel) for diggin a latrine etc.
When I go hunting I'm usually carrying 3 knives: a Cold Steel Tanto (laugh if you want I bought this knife 20 some years ago for use as a hunter, and its a great skinning knife), a wyoming knife (unzipping, skinning the 'knuckles', detail work) and a Swiss.
Day hike, likely just a Swiss. I have a nice sized 'survival' bag that goes on all 3, a knife is a small part of that kit.
I like the multitool idea, but mainly for the usefulness of the pliers.
I've done more with a Swiss army knife than I ever accomplished with a bigger blade, with a few exceptions. Some folks prefer a multi-tool.
I use the 'hunter' model that has a saw blade... I can tell you from experience you can certainly gut, split bones and skin an antelope with nothing but a Swiss army knife. I have made shelter using nothing but a Swiss army knife. Many of the new models have locking and serrated blades that are WICKED sharp. (Note that over time they do dull a bit and a 'specialty' sharpener is required--but what do you want in a $30 knife? The serrated blades are a little thinner than the old single edge.) You might actually need tweezers, a can opener and a screwdriver. I've had little use for the awl, but the nail file is a great striking surface for flint n steel. the scissors are 'gimmicky' until you need to cut moleskin precisely. The scissors springs give up after 10 years of hard use. Stainless means it won't rust in your pocket, or before you make it home from where ever you are.
You need a big knife for skinning a big animal. Specialty blades like Wyoming knives are slick, but they dull quickly. A good 3-5 inch blade with plenty of belly is the perfect skinner. Buck makes some nice ones. Cold Steel's Bushman is a no-frills (you might wanna wrap the handle with leather) knife that's made for that very purpose, and if you feel the need, it's designed to be made into a spear.
Another use for a big knife is prepping boughs for a shelter or other such 'grunt work' you wish you had a machete or hatchet for. There's no 'best' answer for this, rather how much weight you are willing to carry. A heavy knife is more useful than a 'light' one, some military blades have wire cutters built in (a neat feature) or nail pullers etc. These big knives are lousy for stuff like cleaning a squirrel or bird (animal you might be able to catch in a survival situation). If you go trekking in dense jungle-like forest with vines, etc a lightwieght machete might make a lot more sense than a K-bar, if you have a Swiss in your pocket.
Thing is, a Swiss army slips in your pocket and is with you ALWAYS --no matter what... in the car, the office, etc, not just 'on the trail.' I wish they made one with a glass breaker feature (the new serrated blades can cut a seatbelt).
When I go backpacking I've always got a Swiss, maybe a larger knife. Usually a small shovel (someone mentioned the Spetsnatz shovel) for diggin a latrine etc.
When I go hunting I'm usually carrying 3 knives: a Cold Steel Tanto (laugh if you want I bought this knife 20 some years ago for use as a hunter, and its a great skinning knife), a wyoming knife (unzipping, skinning the 'knuckles', detail work) and a Swiss.
Day hike, likely just a Swiss. I have a nice sized 'survival' bag that goes on all 3, a knife is a small part of that kit.
I like the multitool idea, but mainly for the usefulness of the pliers.
Yup, no one knife does it all. Too big and no delicate work is doable. Too small and no chopping brute force work comes easy.
Define your survival situation. Pick your tools to fit. A small knife can be batoned and "chop" like a much larger knife. http://www.barkriverknives.com/docs/batoning.pdf
Define your survival situation. Pick your tools to fit. A small knife can be batoned and "chop" like a much larger knife. http://www.barkriverknives.com/docs/batoning.pdf
AStone
Member
Dr.Rob, a most excellent essay. Enjoyed reading it.
Lays out your needs for [strike]a[/strike] survival knife(s) knicely. {Intentional typo.}
I do not - or am unable to - distinguish between "day hike" and "2-day hike".
I've lost count of the number of times in my life where I've set out on a "day hike",
but couldn't stop walking.
"Just one more peak {ridge, switch back, overlook}',
I'd say to myself, "then back to base camp."
Right. Too many times, got back well after dark,
having to walk with a flashlight for part of it.
A couple of times, I was lucky to get back that night at all,
and for all practical purposes should have just built a camp and stayed put.
(Certainly wanted to; those spaces were beautiful.)
After years of that, I just started automatically
carrying overnight gear in a "day-and-a-half pack",
including enough layers for warm and dry on
an unexpectedly cold, wet night,
and enough easy food for the next day.
And in my kit, that dictates my SAK and/or multi-tool
plus a larger fixed blade (now, an SPE).
Soon to come, I'll add a tomahawk.
Most likely candidate right now:
a 14" Hays Montana Hunter hammer poll.
These days, kit also contains a .357 mag, but that's a different thread.
I'll also be upgrading the emergency kit soon using a modified version of M40's list.
_______
Dr.Hso, I've downloaded that essay on batoning.
I've only scanned it so far, but I "get it".
Very impressive reading. Thanks for that.
Hmmm. I'm beginning to see
a new class for my students:
Survival 101.
Ummm, this could be fun ...
Dr.Nem
Lays out your needs for [strike]a[/strike] survival knife(s) knicely. {Intentional typo.}
Knowing myself as well as I do,
I do not - or am unable to - distinguish between "day hike" and "2-day hike".
I've lost count of the number of times in my life where I've set out on a "day hike",
but couldn't stop walking.
"Just one more peak {ridge, switch back, overlook}',
I'd say to myself, "then back to base camp."
Right. Too many times, got back well after dark,
having to walk with a flashlight for part of it.
A couple of times, I was lucky to get back that night at all,
and for all practical purposes should have just built a camp and stayed put.
(Certainly wanted to; those spaces were beautiful.)
After years of that, I just started automatically
carrying overnight gear in a "day-and-a-half pack",
including enough layers for warm and dry on
an unexpectedly cold, wet night,
and enough easy food for the next day.
And in my kit, that dictates my SAK and/or multi-tool
plus a larger fixed blade (now, an SPE).
Soon to come, I'll add a tomahawk.
Most likely candidate right now:
a 14" Hays Montana Hunter hammer poll.
These days, kit also contains a .357 mag, but that's a different thread.
I'll also be upgrading the emergency kit soon using a modified version of M40's list.
_______
Dr.Hso, I've downloaded that essay on batoning.
I've only scanned it so far, but I "get it".
Very impressive reading. Thanks for that.
Hmmm. I'm beginning to see
a new class for my students:
Survival 101.
Ummm, this could be fun ...
Dr.Nem
Todesengel
Member
+1 for the swiss army knife...mine is almost always with me.
AStone
Member
Yet another reason that I haven't flown in nearly a decade, and will not for the next decade.
I refuse to fly on philosophical grounds having to do with
rude treatment by gate agents, ticket agents, flight attendants, lost baggage and the like.
(Let alone being stuck on a plane on the tarmac for hours and not let off.)
Why do people put up with such abuse and disrespect?
If I can't drive, train, walk, or bike there, I don't need to go.
Hey, I live in one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Why travel elsewhere?
Oh, sorry ... the topic is all round survival knives.
My two top candidates now a days:
SOG Seal Pup Elite (top pick)
KaBar fighting knife (a little big for all round, but feels good)
coelacanth
Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2007
- Messages
- 455
to the original post . . . . .
definitely the KaBar. I have used one constantly as a camp knife for many years and I have yet to find its equal for anywhere near the price. That said, I also own and use several puuko and any number of folding knives as auxiliary blades that complement rather than replace the KaBar in most cases. Buy the KaBar - take it camping for a season and develop your own opinion. My camp box contains the KaBar, a cruiser axe, a folding saw and several other items I wouldn't want to be caught in the woods without so I guess I line up with the folks who think there is no "perfect" knife for your application. If you like the general feel of the KaBar, allow me to suggest a few home modifications you can make: 1) Cut the top off the guard with a hacksaw. Its generally useless unless you're in a knife fight. 2) Sand the leather handle into a more oval shape. It works better and allows you to index the knife in your hand a little easier. Refinish it with beeswax and a little neatsfoot oil. 3) Sharpen the swedge - you'll find it uncommonly handy around camp. 4) Reinforce the stock sheath or ditch it and get a better one. You don't want to take a fall with a fixed blade knife in a flimsy sheath. Good luck and good hunting.
definitely the KaBar. I have used one constantly as a camp knife for many years and I have yet to find its equal for anywhere near the price. That said, I also own and use several puuko and any number of folding knives as auxiliary blades that complement rather than replace the KaBar in most cases. Buy the KaBar - take it camping for a season and develop your own opinion. My camp box contains the KaBar, a cruiser axe, a folding saw and several other items I wouldn't want to be caught in the woods without so I guess I line up with the folks who think there is no "perfect" knife for your application. If you like the general feel of the KaBar, allow me to suggest a few home modifications you can make: 1) Cut the top off the guard with a hacksaw. Its generally useless unless you're in a knife fight. 2) Sand the leather handle into a more oval shape. It works better and allows you to index the knife in your hand a little easier. Refinish it with beeswax and a little neatsfoot oil. 3) Sharpen the swedge - you'll find it uncommonly handy around camp. 4) Reinforce the stock sheath or ditch it and get a better one. You don't want to take a fall with a fixed blade knife in a flimsy sheath. Good luck and good hunting.
AStone
Member
I bought a Kabar fighting knife because I found it on sale. Seemed similar enough to the original.
In retrospect, I'd have liked a serrated section for cutting limbs.
But I like your idea of removing the top guard.
And recommendations for a different sheath are welcome.
I need a new sheath for the Seal Pup, too.
(The Kydex that it came with bit the dust; belt attachment broke.
Hated it anyway; couldn't stand the SOG letters in gold.)
Looking at Survival Sheaths, but open to suggestions.
rugerfreak
Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2002
- Messages
- 492
My sister is a flight attendant for AA--and even though I can get free tickets---I still refuse to fly and haven't been on a plane since '91.
To the original question---a Benchmade 520----its a stout knife and the one I always have on me---so in a survival situation---it would most likely be the knife I have.
To the original question---a Benchmade 520----its a stout knife and the one I always have on me---so in a survival situation---it would most likely be the knife I have.
Blade_Zero
Member
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2007
- Messages
- 28
The puukko style does seem to be the ultimate survival knife, something that could work in a pinch though, would be the CRKT AG STING, it has several features compatible with the mission of a survival knife,
small fixed blade,
shock/impact resistant carbon steel,
double edged, one of which could be dulled for utilitarian duties, blades can slip,
it's also affordable, realistically you're probably going to need more than one survival knife & survival kit, throwzini has a buy four get one free offer.
http://www.throwzini.com/crkt-sting.html
It may not be optimal for precision carving but sculpting a spoon, fork or fishing hook wouldn't be my highest priority in a survival situation anyway.
For cutting trees and branches wouldn't a wire saw substitute for an axe or machete?
small fixed blade,
shock/impact resistant carbon steel,
double edged, one of which could be dulled for utilitarian duties, blades can slip,
it's also affordable, realistically you're probably going to need more than one survival knife & survival kit, throwzini has a buy four get one free offer.
http://www.throwzini.com/crkt-sting.html
It may not be optimal for precision carving but sculpting a spoon, fork or fishing hook wouldn't be my highest priority in a survival situation anyway.
For cutting trees and branches wouldn't a wire saw substitute for an axe or machete?
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Lots of folks like the "KaBar", (and here some of you will consider me to speak blasphemy) but I find the blade too long for most uses, the useless upper guard prevents you from choking up on the blade to use for small choirs and the choil is too small for anyone with hands of normal size.
The USMC Fighting Knife was inspired by the Marbles Ideal, which had none of the above flaws, and was intended as a combat knife. That lead to compromises that reduce it's utility as a camp knife so it could better serve as a combat knife.
The USMC Fighting Knife was inspired by the Marbles Ideal, which had none of the above flaws, and was intended as a combat knife. That lead to compromises that reduce it's utility as a camp knife so it could better serve as a combat knife.
The best all around survival knife is the one that you will always have with you, because you can't predict when you will be in a survival situation. My vote goes for a stout folder, or beter yet, a leatherman type of knife (Ask Wes Stroud).
If I knew I was going to be in a surtvival situtation, and didn;t have to worry about carry, I'd pick a medium sized blade - big enough to chop if necessay, small enough for fine work. I am a fan of Chris Reeve's survival knives, and you can turn them into a portable survival kit. As they are one piece knives, you don;t have the stregth issues that you do with other hollow handle knives.
If I knew I was going to be in a surtvival situtation, and didn;t have to worry about carry, I'd pick a medium sized blade - big enough to chop if necessay, small enough for fine work. I am a fan of Chris Reeve's survival knives, and you can turn them into a portable survival kit. As they are one piece knives, you don;t have the stregth issues that you do with other hollow handle knives.
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