All my guns suck.

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I'm a relatively new gun owner, but the last few guns I bought just plain suck. And worse, I thought I knew what I was doing.

I bought a pawn-shop 1981 manufactured Marlin 60 for $50. I took it shooting and it jammed every two or three shots. I cleaned it up and it still won't cycle without problems. There might be something wrong with the feed ramp, as each jammed cartridge just kind of gets crushed in the middle by the bolt instead of chambering properly. Dang it!

I bought a NIB WASR-10 at a gun show, and half of the time I try to chamber a round the bolt handle refuses to close all the way and stays open about half of an inch. Also, one of the two magazines it came with is defective, as the magazine body is too narrow near the bottom and causes the follower to get stuck. I thought AKs were supposed to be reliable! Dang it!

My most recent purchase of a brand-new Ruger Mk III was also disappointing. I haven't shot it yet, but while dry-cycling every few .22s get caught on the feed ramp. I think the magazines aren't pushing the rounds up at the right angle. Also, the bolt doesn't seem to want to grab the rounds and pull them out of the chamber for ejection. Dang it!

Only the Marlin has an excuse for unreliability, as it was used and cheap. But a brand new Ruger and Romanian AK? Unbelievable!

Will my luck ever change, or will any future Glocks of mine KB and future K98s shoot 200 Minute of Angle? :banghead:
 
On the WASR, are you completely releasing the bolt handle when you go to chamber? If your hand is "riding the bolt" when you let it close, you can easily steal some of the energy needed to seal the breech and lock the action.

That could also explain what's going on w/ your Ruger....and btw, with no offense intended, dry cycling live ammos is a great way for a n00b to gain direct experience with the phenemena we call "accidental/negiligent discharge", and at least something called "property damage", if not "personal injury", which would innevitably lead to "encounters with the justice system".


My suggestion is to find an experienced THR guy in your area to buddy up with, so as he can check out your gear, technique, and maybe point you to some of the local trainers.
 
That's some pretty bad luck you're having there. Don't give up, though. Most guns out there function properly. Merphys Law just chose you to prove itself on. It can't keep up forever, though.
 
Just keep working at it. All three sound like solid guns, they may just need some work. Inside every unreliable, inaccurate gun is a reliable, accurate one waiting to emerge.
 
Detail clean the guns, to include magazines, with a brush and solvent (not Break-Free or oil). Hit 'em with gun scrubber and make sure all the cosmo, old lube and grit are truly gone. Bone dry, bare metal. Then lube properly.

Forget the "this gun'll run dry" gunshop BS. You aren't in Iraq so there's no need to "underlube" the gun. Give all the bearing surfaces (where metal on metal wear shows) a nice light coat and then try them.

On a newish gun, most problems are caused by either gunk or underlubing. When you disassemble the gun for cleaning look for tool marks on wearing surfaces, look for wear where wear shouldn't be. Make sure the chamber is truly cleaned to metal (laquered ammo can leave bits behind), make sure the feed ramps aren't dinged up.

The next logical check for feed problems (which really should only be diagnosed by firing a variety of ammo) is the magazines and then the springs. If those don't seem to be the problem it, it's time to call on a pro or contact the factory. Most will service even "used" guns.
 
I'm having the same trouble with my 10/22. I am trying to find out why it malfunctions constantly and I just seem to be chasing the problem around.
 
There are break-in periods where stuff gets smoother, and ammo selection can make all the difference cycling. Particularly in .22s.
 
A word of advice on the M60. They are known for liking hotter 22 ammo. The cheap bulk pack ammo sometimes doesn't cycle the actions cleanly. Your rifle may just require a bit more ooommmpphh.
Mauserguy
 
Marlin model 60 - try high velocity ammo, some .22 autloaders require it for reliable operation.

WASR AK - your being to easy on it.....yank the lever back and let her fly. AKs are reliable but in all honesty you bought the bottom of the barrel AK. Ive had a couple and they were great, so Im not saying they are bad guns.....Im just saying they arent as nicely made as other AKs.

Ruger Mark III - hand cycling is not even remotely the same thing as actually firing the gun......dont hate on the gun till you actually fire it.
 
As stated, .22s can be ammo sensitive. I would go and buy a 50-round box of every type I could find, and then find out what your guns like.

I have a Marlin M60 at least as old as yours, and although it doesn't get the exercise it should, it will digest most .22LR ammo. My recently aquired MkII, so far so good.

I have heard a few snipes about MkIIIs--I don't know what they changed between MkII and MkIII, but I bet these guys will:
www.rimfirecentral.com

They have some pretty model specific forums there.
Good luck.
 
Most .22 autoloader extractors don't engage the case rim until recoil backs it out of the chamber slightly...Take a look at the extractor notch, and you'll see that it doesn't allow the extractor claw to get behind the rim when in battery. So don't sweat the extraction until you shoot it, and let the cycling during use break the action in. The only reason you should have to extract an unfired case is in case of a misfire.
 
Jackal, I might suggerst a Volquartsen Exact Edge extractor if you haven't installed one already. I throw 'em in new 10/22s as a matter of course. I'm not sure what your problem is, but at about $10 it couldn't hurt.

Best,
Jeff
 
Thanks for the feedback, everybody.

I'm taking them out for test firing tomorrow, so hopefully the problem is just me and not my gear. That's a much cheaper fix, I believe!
 
Well, I'm just going to come out and say it. I would not recommend or have bought ANY of those guns. I feel there are better examples out there for just a little bit more $$.
IMO, the Ruger 10-22 is better all around than the Marlin, the WASR is not based on a "real" AK, and the Ruger MK II is better because it doesn't have the extra "safety" crap on it that the III version has. Research your purchases before buying, save yourself the trouble later. Hope you get them working though.

NS
 
I am sorry to hear all your guns suck.

In order to help you out, I am willing to pay you $50 to ship all three of these awful sucky guns to me so I can properly dispose of them for you.

I feel your pain.

Heck....I'll make it $75.

:neener:

hillbilly
 
I will help you with your "lemons" send them to my ffl and you will have no more worries:evil:
 
On the Mark III, try a different kind of ammo. Mine doesn't like the lead nose.(Winchester bulk) I have to use the coated. (Federal bulk) I have a buddy with a S&W, his doesn't like anything but the lead nose.

Ron
 
On the Mark III, try a different kind of ammo. Mine doesn't like the lead nose.(Winchester bulk) I have to use the coated. (Federal bulk)

Amen. None of my .22 semi-autos will reliably feed the Winchester bulk stuff. Its too short and feeds at too steep of an angle, hitting the top edge of the chamber.
CCI MiniMags or Federal 810's (Game Shok) are all I use anymore.
 
Let the bolt on the AK slam forward when chambering a round. In the marlin try some 40 gr winchester super x ammo. It has a nice round nose, it was the only ammo my model 60 would feed reliably.
 
probably allready been said, but my cheapo $70 Marlin 60 only likes remington golden bullets and dyna points, so just try different ammo.
You had the right idea by going with the 22 pistol and rifle, thats a great combo for a beginner, hope your luck gets better.
 
'Machinegun, I'm really sorry you are having trouble with your guns. I have two 30 y.o. Marlin 60's and a Ruger Mk-II of same vintage, a 1988 Ruger 10-22, various other guns aquired over the years, and a brand new SA XD45. All of my guns work fine, I honestly can't think of a gun I ever owned that did not work properly after a proper cleaning/lubing. No wonder I can't win the lottery:banghead: ,I'm gun lucky:D .
Try a different mag in the WASR. Take the Ruger out and actually shoot it, use Remington Golden bullets. Take the trigger group out of the Marlin(DO NOT disassemble the trigger group) and blow it out with Gun scrubber or brake cleaner, lube it and put it back together. Hope this will solve some of your prob's.
 
I have only been seriously interested in firearms for 4-5 years now. Made some inexperienced purchases. My advise would be to never buy impulsively. Test shoot at a range if possible. Only have ammo loaded in your home defense weapon when at home. Unless you are at a range, leave your other firearms unloaded. Don't cycle rounds through them. I am still learning alot, but I have come a long way. Use the forums on here, ar15.com, akfiles.com. You will find somebody to answer any question you have. Need a range reporton a gun you have in mind, you can get those too. Just ask.
 
From my own experience, Pawn Shop guns can be a TAD iffy. ([cough]They usually suck![/cough]).

Always check for range reports and look for common problems. If something is really cheap, it's usually cheap for a reason.
 
I have seen more that one old Marlin Mod. 60 that had serious feeding issues...

Marlin made a parts kit (I believe it was referred to as a "throater" kit,) that adressed this very problem...

My buddy installed one of these kits on his Marlin... it shot reliably for a good number of years after that...

the kits were cheap too...
 
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