aluminum frames, any issues

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MrTuffPaws

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I tried searching, but couldn't find a thread on it, so here it goes:

I am in the market for a 38 snubby for some discrete carry. I like steel frames, but after handling some of the Air-weights and Ultra-lights out there, the reduction is weight of the aluminum alloy frames is a huge plus to me.

I did some searching, and couldn't come up with anything about premature wear, frame stretching, or frame failures dealing with Al frames, but I would like to check again via a new thread.

So, has anyone ever had an Al frame 38 revolver that failed or prematurely wore?
 
I have one and love it and they are +P rated so they have to good.

If you want alot of good info see the 642 club and the 642 club duex.
The first one got to long so they had to start a whole new thread.
 
Any Airweight/Airlight you buy will more than likely outlive you. I say so for two reasons. First, practicing with an Airweight is a duty, not a pleasure. Even when shooting fifty standard pressure 158gr SWCs from my Airweight at the range, I must first tape my trigger finger and the web of my thumb. Airlight snubbies are just a few ounces (ouchies) lighter than Airweights. Second, if an Airweight (or any S&W revolver of recent vintage) needs some work down the road, S&W has promised (with very fair ifs-ands-or-buts) to fix it free -- will even pay shipping both ways. If you are a skeptic you might ask, "What if S&W goes belly up?" Well, you would be in exactly the same position you are with many other handguns -- the day you bought them.
Cordially, Jack
 
Had a friend that acquired an alloy framed Colt Cobra that'd been lost for god only knows how long in a salt water estuary.......all the internals were damaged beyond use, the wooden grips had rotted off, the bbl and cylinder were (it turned out) usable. The frame was so pitted from that salt immersion to be almost beyond belief.....frankly I'd have tossed it, but that friend bought all new internals and rebuilt that gun. It worked OK and even shot with acceptable accuracy....really surprised me that it held up to repeated use considering the frame issue. That frame was so corroded that it appeared it'd have been possible to break it in half with one's hands!

I also recall an article in I believe Shooting Times years back when gunwriter Skeeter Skelton did a shoot till it stops article using an alloy framed M/39....Don't recall the precise amount of ammo he burned, but he succeded in cracking the frame near the bbl ramp and it still kept shooting.

Alloy frames are really damned tough!
 
There have been some issues with cracked frames on older, pre-magnum frame aluminum Smiths. Problem there is that S&W no longer has prelock frames for replacements. Any newer model rated +P is built on the magnum frame, and should be OK. A few cracks in newer models have been reported, even in the N-frames. These don't appear to result from use, rather from the factory over-torquing barrels. Rare, but it happens. This problem will appear within the first couple of hundred rounds.
 
The rumor-mongering twenty years ago for alloy (aluminum)-framed handguns was that they were good for about 2,000 rounds before stretching or cracking occured.

S&W really went to work on this and came up with the Scandium-aluminum recipe. It appears to be worthwhile--my experience with my M&P 340 (which is limited) is that the frame is every bit as tough as my 640 SS frame.

Now, add in the fact that S&W will back their guns for the (original) owner's lifetime, and you have a good deal. At least, it will be a good deal until S&W is again sold and reorganized / reincorporated. Then, the warranty--which has benefit under law--will become strictly a company policy for purchasers of the previous company product.

Jim H.
 
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