Am I too cautious in reloading?

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My process:

1. Deprime cases in separate die; keeps residue out of the sizing die so cases don't get scratched.

2. Run case mouths over a bore brush spinning in a drill to clean out powder residue

3. Tumble or vibrate to clean brass.

4. Put brass in terry cloth tube to shush it back and forth to clean media off the cases; don't want it in the sizing die. Check primer pocket and flash holes for debris; remove if there.

5. Put some case lube on the foam that lines a can then tumble 40 cases for a few minutes. This puts a uniform amount of lube on all cases so they size consistently in case headspace.

6. Full length size those 40 cases while another 40 are tumbling in the lubing can. Repeat step 5 and 6 for all cases to be reloaded at the time.

7. Put the sized cases in another terry cloth tube with lacquer thinner on the cloth then susch them back and forth for a minute to remove the lube. Dump 'em out then let them dry.

8. Measure case length on a decent sample. If they've grown .010" since last trim, trim, debur with standard tool, then again with an Easy Out spun clockwise to smooth out the sharp inside edge left by the deburring tool, then run them over that spinning bore brush again to make the case mouth edge that touches the bullet round so bullet jacket material is not scraped off. Such bullets with jackets scraped off unevenly are unbalanced a little bit.l

9. Put components in cases.
 
Thanks for everyone's input. I've been reloading for many years (20+), but trying to improve my process and make it more efficient. As others stated, this is for rifle cartridges.

I always liked tumbling the cases before sizing to eliminate wear on the dies. I sometimes question this step wondering if it's really needed.

I tumble again after sizing to remove the lube. I've read that you don't want to fire a cartridge with lube on it because you want it to "stick" to the chamber walls and not put high forces on the bolt. It seems easier than wiping off each case.

I recently switched to walnut media from corn cob media. I think I'll switch back. It's tedious to pick out the flash holes/primer pockets.

I have the Trim-It length sizer tool and it makes quick work of trimming to length, but I feel I still have to use my dial calipers on each one to make sure they're not too long especially on semi-auto rifles. On bolt action rifle, I wouldn't be so particular.

After priming, I do feel each primer to make sure it fully seated.

I have an older Midway vibratory tumbler. Maybe, it's time for a rotary or a wet one? I assume rotary are better at cleaning? And the wet ones eliminate dust and clean better?

I'm happy with my results, but always looking to improve.
 
I would skip #3 till after you load then just tumbel for 5 or 10 min
Do not do this... Tumbling loaded rounds can break down powder and cause pressure issues.

That being said, I do everything the op does with three exceptions.
-Instead of tumbling my brass a second time I use a primer pocket cleaner on my prep center and just wipe lube off with a microfiber cloth
-I trim ALL my brass
-I debur my flash holes the first time

-Safety is no accident, unless you accidentally leave the safety on when you intend to shoot.
 
My loading using your list would go something like this;
1.
8.
7.
2.
4.
5.
10-14...
 
my procedure,
1. wet tumble.
2. size, decap.
3. trim if necessary but I only do it one time then run them thru the rcbs x die that doesnt let the case grow over 1.75 so I never trim the same brass twice. I use Hornady one shot lube so I don't have to tumble again to remove the lube. Only lube I've ever used and never had a stuck case or issue
4. load progressively just like pistol. (prime, powder, seat bullet)

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Do not do this... Tumbling loaded rounds can break down powder and cause pressure issues.

Read that thread that Walkalong posted.
This is a common issue that a lot of people are worried about for absolutely no reason.
It simply is not true.
When you buy factory ammunition, it was tumbled after it was loaded. How do you think they're so pretty in the box? ;)

For the OP, I don't think you're necessarily being too cautious.
You tumble a little more than I do, and I've never cleaned a primer pocket in my life (also never had a misfire with a rifle round) but if your system makes you happy go for it.

I tumble before depriming/sizing as well.
I tumble again (unless I'm loading hollow points) after the rounds are loaded to remove lube. I also tumble my handgun ammo with my cast boolits to remove the Lee Alox lube from the bullets. A little corn cob media with a cap ful of mineral spirits takes it off in 10-15 minutes.
 
My procedure is nearly identical to yours. In the past I didn't tumble after resize, but recently added that step to get the lube off. The ammo will shoot fine with lube on, but I don't like handling the lube and it collects a bit of dust (not much) that can end up in your rifle.
 
No such thing. If your happy and safe, not a reason in the world to change.

That said there are faster ways to get the same results but they also cost more.

If it's a labor of love and you like your results, keep on keeping on.

Added: I don't put dirty brass in a size die, if you want a clean primer pocket and don't want to tumble first get a decap die that won't size. Either a "universal" die or just one from a caliber so large it won't do anything except poke the primer out.
This^
 
When you buy factory ammunition, it was tumbled after it was loaded. How do you think they're so pretty in the box?
All the ammo company folks I've asked about this say the following.

Bullets and cases are tumbled after forming to make them pretty (bright and shiny). Then they're assembled with primer and powder untouched by human hands. When handled by humans in packaging, gloves are worn so skin acids won't tarnish the cases and bullets. Tumbling loaded rounds is not a good idea as it changes the surface of powder and can, but not always, change how the powder burns.
 
I skip your step 3 and use a towel to wipe the shell as I inspect it and make sure the primer hole is clear with a copper wire.
My step 14 is Final Inspection of the Complete Round. Step15-Label the storage container with load data.
 
I forgot one step. As I'm charging the cases with powder from the powder measure, I'll pick about 3-4 out of 50 and dump the powder onto the scale to make sure the weight is the same and consistent. Is this too much? Does anyone else do this?
 
I forgot one step. As I'm charging the cases with powder from the powder measure, I'll pick about 3-4 out of 50 and dump the powder onto the scale to make sure the weight is the same and consistent. Is this too much? Does anyone else do this?
I throw every 10th charge into the pan to verify my powder measure is still set right.

-Safety is no accident, unless you accidentally leave the safety on when you intend to shoot.
 
I forgot one step. As I'm charging the cases with powder from the powder measure, I'll pick about 3-4 out of 50 and dump the powder onto the scale to make sure the weight is the same and consistent. Is this too much? Does anyone else do this?
No this is practice that I use also. When I first started reloading I was told it was not needed to tumble brass before any sizing was done and was using steel dies back then. And after a couple hundred cases being sized I started to notice vertical lines on my cases and to my dismay small amounts of dust was scoring the inside of my dies. After that i always tumbled first and tumbled after the sizing step to remove lube and clean primer pockets. I also have tumble loaded ammo but have found it to be useless.
 
Read that thread that Walkalong posted.
This is a common issue that a lot of people are worried about for absolutely no reason.
It simply is not true.
When you buy factory ammunition, it was tumbled after it was loaded. How do you think they're so pretty in the box? ;)

For the OP, I don't think you're necessarily being too cautious.
You tumble a little more than I do, and I've never cleaned a primer pocket in my life (also never had a misfire with a rifle round) but if your system makes you happy go for it.

I tumble before depriming/sizing as well.
I tumble again (unless I'm loading hollow points) after the rounds are loaded to remove lube. I also tumble my handgun ammo with my cast boolits to remove the Lee Alox lube from the bullets. A little corn cob media with a cap ful of mineral spirits takes it off in 10-15 minutes.
Read that too. I may have to start tumbling my live rounds now. Once I get a wet tumbler, I'll need to justify having the dry one still...

-Safety is no accident, unless you accidentally leave the safety on when you intend to shoot.
 
I don't tumble loaded rounds. I just use clean brass. It will keep it shiny longer though. :)
 
I tumble in SS pins for 3 minute, dry, size, trim-chamfer-debur, tumble in cob, prime, powder, bullet, measure OAL, go to the range, repeat.

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As I'm charging the cases with powder from the powder measure, I'll pick about 3-4 out of 50 and dump the powder onto the scale to make sure the weight is the same and consistent. Is this too much? Does anyone else do this?
I don't. Just look at the thimble on the measure and if it's still at the place I set it, it's gonna be just fine. Keep an eye on the thimble every 3rd or 4th dump.

By the way, there's a lot of old husband's tales in reloading. Read a booklet some years ago someone showed me that had hundreds listed. I oft times see them repeated in all sorts of reloading print media.
 
I don't think I've ever inspected as a separate step.

I suppose case inspection could be made part of case preparation.

The reloading manuals I have do all list case inspection as a discrete step:
  • Hornady, 4th Ed., pg 37
  • Speer, 11th Ed., pg 40
  • Lyman, 49th Ed., pg 22

I reload in small batches of 50 or 100 cartridges at a time on a single stage press, so I can afford to take a more relaxed approach to reloading than someone who is going to shoot 200 rounds every weekend. For my own needs, I intentionally designed my reloading procedures to ensure that I put a measuring tool on the case at least once and put eyes and fingers on the case no fewer than three times (at the start, after sizing/expanding, and final inspection).
 
All the ammo company folks I've asked about this say the following.

Bullets and cases are tumbled after forming to make them pretty (bright and shiny). Then they're assembled with primer and powder untouched by human hands. When handled by humans in packaging, gloves are worn so skin acids won't tarnish the cases and bullets. Tumbling loaded rounds is not a good idea as it changes the surface of powder and can, but not always, change how the powder burns.

My father retired after many years at Remington Arms ammunition factory in Lonoke, Arkansas. They tumble the loaded ammunition there.
Now I can't say whether they all do or not.

I do know that I have tumbled countless thousands of rounds with no noticeable difference whatsoever.

However, I also do not begrudge or scoff at someone who is a bit overly cautious and chooses not to. This is an individual hobby and many things I do, you may decide not to and vice versa.

There is a thread on here where some experienced guys did a more extensive test with rounds that had been tumbled for many hours. They broke the ammo apart to inspect the powder afterwards and shot some. They did find any signs of velocity changes. They did not have pressure measuring equipment.
 
Don't worry about corncob or walnut tumbling media in flash holes. The primer will blast it right out.

I used to clean them all out until I realized I didn't have too. Thousands of rounds with media in flash holes and not a single problem yet.
 
I don't. Just look at the thimble on the measure and if it's still at the place I set it, it's gonna be just fine. Keep an eye on the thimble every 3rd or 4th dump
Agreed, once you know the setting is throwing what you want, proven by many throws, then just make sure it hasn't changed while loading.
 
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