An end-all, be-all dry-firing advice/info thread?

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yhtomit

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Hi!

I know, since I’m by no means one of the old-timers on this board, and an often-admitted perpetual newbie in this as in all other fields, that some topics must seem old to people who’ve seen dozens or hundreds of posts along the same lines (”.223 or 5.56 in this chamber?”). However, I have been impressed by how helpful and knowledgeable THR posters generally are, even when it sometimes takes some iterative correction to reach the best knowledge, and even if reasonable people often seem to disagree.

With that in mind (and knowing I’ll probably not use the Internet until next Monday, so flames can die down ;)), I’d like to ask for some collective wisdom on the sometimes-condemned, often-recommended act of dry firing.

I’d love to see a comprehensible general guide that explains things like:

- What guns can you NOT safely dry fire -- and for what reason
- What guns can you dry fire, but only with a snap cap in place, and why?
- What guns (if the answer is not None) is it perfectly acceptable to dry fire with no snap cap, just click click click click?

What’s the *worst* that could happen (this side of unreasonable) if dry-firing without snap caps?

Do you personally dry fire, and how often? Ever seen a problem as a result?

By what means does dry firing improve a trigger, as I’ve seen repeated so often that I have come to believe it to be true (without enough actual dry firing to prove it myself). Or does it mostly improve the muscle memory and finger callouses of the one doing all that dry firing?

Should I be concerned about dry firing (with / without snap caps?) ...
- a Browning BPM?
- A Ruger P345?
- a Cz-75?
- a S&W 625?
- a single-action only Witness?
- a Saiga?
- a Remington 870?
(OK, OK -- I know those last two non-handguns snuck in here)
- a Ruger 22/45?
- a Kahr 9mm pistol?
- a Kel-Tec Sub2000?
- a Crosman 1377 (air) pistol?

Thoughts appreciated!

timothy
 
a Ruger 22/45?
A good and cheap substitute for Snap-caps (TM) in any .22 lr are #4-6 X7/8" Ribbed plastic anchors.
They are commonly used to mount pictures and other such things on a gypsum wallboard wall (drywall) they are inexpensive and can be found in any hardware or building supply store. They withstand multiple "shots" and load and feed in most .22s magazines.

Dry firing is good for the shooter and good for the gun.
 
In general, dry firing rimfires is not a good idea. Some are made so that the firing pin cannot damage the barrel breech, or cartridge rim recess, but many are not. Dry firing without an empty case, snap cap, etc. in place can peen the chamber and make it impossible to load the gun. It can be fixed, but you'll either need to buy the tool to do so, or take it to a gunsmith.

S&W centerfire revolvers you're not going to hurt one bit by dry firing, the factory used to encourage it in fact.

I would not dry fire the saiga, or the 870 without some type of snap cap. I don't think the AK firing pin was designed to withstand much dry firing, and shotguns in general will experience broken firing pins.

As far as the rest of your list goes, call the factory. They'll be able to give you the correct answer for the firearm in question.
 
Dry firing

It has always seemed obvious to me that in .22 LR guns, where the rim of the cartridge gets "pinched" betweeen firing pin & chamber wall, dry firing without some sort of a buffer, would damage either firing pin or chamber wall.

I used to dry fire all of my centerfire handguns without snap caps (or something equivalent) a LOT, just to get used to their tirggers. I must admit it certainly helped.

On the other hand, the only firing pin I never broke by dry firng that way, was that of a Colt King Cobra.Probably because I only owned it for 2 months (traded for a S&W 28).

Just to state that, in my experience, regardless of manufacturer and, as far as revolvers are concerned, wether the firing pin is frame- or hammer mounted, I broke firing pins on S&W, Ruger, Browning, CZ & Norinco guns dry firing that way.

So by all means, dry fire, bur DO use caps (or an equivalent buffer of some sort).
 
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I try to dry fire often. It's a good way to ensure I'm pulling the trigger correctly, and it's good practice for lining up the sights, etc. Muscle memory and all that.

Most modern firearms are safe to dry-fire, even some modern .22LR stuff. Typically, the topic of dry-firing will be discussed in the manual, if you can find one. For instance, the manual for the (New) Ruger Single Six states explicitly that dry firing will not harm the mechanism.
If I can't find anything there, I'd ask the manufacturer, or just use snap caps. That's what they're designed for. Heck, I often use snap caps in dry-fire-safe stuff.

Currently, my collection is a pretty paltry four, of which I only require snap caps for one--a USFA Rodeo (SAA clone). I've had no problems with my other stuff from dry firing.
 
Just break down and buy the spendy but excellent snap caps.

pretty cheap in comparison to the damage to a firearm.

and a lot safer to check charging and cycling the semi-auto.

penny wise and pound foolish.

R-
 
cz-52 supposedly has brittle firing pin that breaks with dry fire.

double barrel shotguns dry fire is a no no. I have a chinese JW2000 but my understanding the advise is common to all external hammer shotguns.

saigas no problem afaik. I have a rifle and a shotgun.

ruger mark iii for a 22 is okay to dry fire.
 
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