Annealing 7.62x39 when FL sizing to .308?

[clone]

I resized some once fired FC 7.62x39 today and had a couple split necks on the first go around. The brass looks normal, no corrosion or other abnormal's. I was thinking of annealing them to get a little more use out of them as once fired 7.62x39 brass will be getting expensive and is a bit hard to find around here.

I have the shell holder from my lee trimming kit and was thinking of getting a IR thermometer (have been wanting one for a while anyway) and I have the torch.

I have some other questions that I am sure will open a hole new can of worms. What is the proper temp to anneal to? I have heard everything from 400 to 750, and even seen one guy on utuber heating them to the point of almost melting, all the while saying I know better then everyone else.

Do they really need to be quenched? I have heard yes on both sides and probably will here to but its worth an ask.

 

[rcmodel]

Making .308 out of 7.62x39 cases??
Shirley not!
You sure it isn't 7.62x51 NATO brass?

Annealing can be done easily by standing the cases in a pan of water about 1" deep.
The water will prevent heat migration getting down to the case wed area and annealing it too.

In dim light, heat the case mouth evenly to a dull red, then tip them over in the water with a propane torch.

If you heat them cherry red in bright light, they are getting too hot!

rc

 

[clone]

Guess I could have worded that better. I meant I was resizing the 7.62x39 to a .308 neck size instead of the normal .310.

As to quenching, I was hoping to get away without the extra step of having to dry the brass. Another thought, I would rather not take the risk of a water droplet making it as far as when I charge the brass. Does the quenching really do anything for the brass other than just cooling.

And don't call me Shirley.

 

[Rollis R. Karvellis]

If after dropping them in the water, set them upright in a loading block overnight in a warm part of the house. They should be completely dry by the next day.

 

[rcmodel]

As I said, water is used to insure heat doesn't migrate down the case and anneal the head & web area, which must be left hard for safety.
Brass is an excellent heat conductor, and if they are not standing in water or other heat sink of some sort, it could happen.

If you didn't want to tip them over in the water & quench, it wouldn't matter if they are quenched or not. But they are going to get wet regardless, and wet inside if deprimed already, so you might as well tip them over.

Once removed from the pan, shake out the excess water, or blow them out with an air hose.

Complete drying can be done in an oven on low 150-200 degree heat for an hour, just leave the door open a crack to insure it doesn't over-heat the cases.

Or you can use a heat gun or blow-dryer.
Or you can lay them out in the sun for an afternoon.

rc