Another flashlight thread

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Which current updated-technology LED offerings in a 1" tube (which fits into existing rail accessories such as the FabArms light holder, etc.) give us the best value in a relatively inexpensive light (under $75 to $100), with quite a bit of output? AA or CR123...

Thanks.
 
Some of the cheap powerful lights are designed to be powerful, but are not designed to withstand firearms recoil.

Some I have looked at use only a drop of solder as a battery contact going from the battery compartment to the LED head.

That ain't gonna last long when recoil starts hammering the battery stack against it.

Without being able to examine them before buying, I would consider something like a SureFire 6P LED flashlight, or one of the real rail-mounted weapons lights like the Streamlite or Insight the entry level as a weapons light you can trust.

rc
 
highorder, how much if you build it for me? Recommend one, build in your profit, and quote me a price please! :)

How much to build me a 380 lumen one like you did? You built it for $60 you said, so $100 to me shipped? More? I ain't got time to mess with it - just want a good light at a good price that yes, as rcmodel reminds us, stands up to rifle recoil. Thanks. :)

Sounds like you ought to go into business highorder...
 
Thanks for the kind words!

It's really easy:
Buy this
and this module
and some 123A cells.
Here's a tape switch if you're interested.

body $24.99
module $33.95
Total, about $60.00 plus batteries.

If you are interested in heavy use, I'd go rechargeable to save money on batteries. It's cheaper, more "complicated" but not necessary. I chose Incandescent for better color rendition and a hotter hotspot, but LED works well too.

NOTE:
This is not a "combat rated" light solution; for that I would use Surefire weaponlights. However, the clone option is loads cheaper and functions reliably for most other uses. Speaking of, you didn't say what kind of recoil. My light has been flawless on a .223 AR. I haven't mounted it on anything heavier.

ymmv.
 
This may end up on a .223 or a heavier recoiler; not sure; and also just be used around the house.

Thanks for all the great info - I'll look into it. :)
 
If you have more questions, let me know!

I found THR when I was deeply involved at www.candlepowerforums.com/vb

You wouldn't believe the passionate collection of brilliant folks over there. :)

(forgot to mention the body linked above is made for fatter cells; you might need to wrap 123's in a little tape to snug/center them. No biggie.)
 
I have been very pleased with my Surefire 6P and G2's. They will fit into a 1" scope ring, so I assume they meet your criteria. The LED models last a LONG time on a pair of CR123 batteries, and are very bright. I had a G2 LED mounted on my AR-15 for a while, and it suffered no ill effects through a couple hundred rounds. The G2's sell at Lowe's for around $40 I think? And the 6P is around $70? I haven't paid much attention to the prices lately.
 
For those interested, 18650 cells are the way to go for rechargeable flashlights. The up-front cost is maybe 2x as much up front but will amortize quickly if your lights go through batteries quickly.

A lot of what makes a weapon light a weapon light these days is build construction. Two main things that come to mind are: solder/contact points in the body, and springs. If all the connections between the head assembly and the tailcap are solid, and the battery contacts are springs, it's going to be much more reliable as a weapon light than anything made 10 years ago.

Make sure the LED assembly is not gaining negative current through the body solely through ball solder - that assembly needs good heat dissipation through a metal head or it will die quickly, and solder contacts will also result in a quick percussive death.

Also, metal lamp heads are far superior to anything else due to heat dissipation. Those $20 80 lumen Brinkmann lamps are bright and very similar in output/function to the $60 Surefire G2L, but I've had two die on warm summer evenings on me - I suspect due to their plastic heads.

I posted a lengthy thread about this some time back; look through the archives if you're interested.
 
For those interested, 18650 cells are the way to go for rechargeable flashlights. The up-front cost is maybe 2x as much up front but will amortize quickly if your lights go through batteries quickly.

A lot of what makes a weapon light a weapon light these days is build construction. Two main things that come to mind are: solder/contact points in the body, and springs. If all the connections between the head assembly and the tailcap are solid, and the battery contacts are springs, it's going to be much more reliable as a weapon light than anything made 10 years ago.

Make sure the LED assembly is not gaining negative current through the body solely through ball solder - that assembly needs good heat dissipation through a metal head or it will die quickly, and solder contacts will also result in a quick percussive death.

Also, metal lamp heads are far superior to anything else due to heat dissipation. Those $20 80 lumen Brinkmann lamps are bright and very similar in output/function to the $60 Surefire G2L, but I've had two die on warm summer evenings on me - I suspect due to their plastic heads.

I posted a lengthy thread about this some time back; look through the archives if you're interested.

The Ultrafire lights and/or body parts seem to be of pretty good quality. I like getting the cheap knock-off crap (which works pretty well, again) from dealextreme.com
 
take a look at fenix or olight. they're available with accessories and pressure switches etc.

ditto to highorder. CPF has your answers. the key things I learned there:
*flashlights are not optics, price does not = quality.
*the markup on flashlights is huge. buy offbrand overseas.
*batteries make all the difference in the world to brightness, and AA alkalines are not good.
 
I don't know if Primary Arms has ever been brought up here, but they're getting a lot of attention on arfcom. Here's the link to what they call the "Ultimate Weapon Light. Here are it's specs:

■ Long throw head with 380 Lumens LED
■ 9 volt
■ Uses 3 CR123A batteries, Included
■ Aluminum Body
■ Waterproof and shock proof with "O" ring seals
■ Massive heat sink allows for continuous operation
■ Batteries only start to fade after 2.5 hours of continuous run time
■ Total length only 7 3/4 inches
■ Weighs only 10 ounces including batteries and mount
■ Includes click-on tailcap switch and 10 inch long tape switch
■ Mount is removable and body is threaded to accept ARMS #17 or LaRue LT170 throw lever mount

1244757972276-850799228.jpeg


For a hundred bucks, it seems like a viable option. It's gotten lots of good reviews, although I can't vouch for it personally.
 
Anyone have experience or comaprisons to Surefire for the Smith & Wesson M&P series lights? Amazon has one that puts out 200 lumens using a 6volt cree LED for under $75. uses 2 CR123 batteries. Seems pretty good, and a better deal then the Surefire lights. Plus a lifetime warranty.

I'm sure S&W is having the lights made for them, and being part of their M&P I am assuming they are rated for use on weapon-mounts.

Anyway, if anyone has thoughts, experience, or comparisons I'd be curious.
 
That's an awful lot of money for a light like that.

warranty aside, I'm sure it's still made in China like the rest of the mainstream lights. You can build a comparable light for half the cost from Lighthound, or find something similar for less at Deal Extreme.
 
ON THE RECOIL ISSUE

I have two Solarforce lights that I installed in a AK and a Remington 12 gauge.

They are fairly new and I haven't done a lot of shooting yet.

But so far they took a dozen slugs form the shotgun and one hundred rounds of 7,62 X 39 from the AK.

1100noflash.jpg

Another tape switch that works well is the AIMSHOT from Cheaper Than Dirt

aimshotremote.jpg

Cheers
Black Bear
 
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